Tweet
After reading about what Krey stated in the Bandit chain adjuster thread (post #10) I bought a set of 1st generation SV650 chain adjusters on ebay. I installed them and took a few pics for the collective to see.
The 1st generation SV650 chain adjuster have the same inside diameter as the Katana and they feature a flush hex bolt. The 2nd generation SV adjusters have a larger diameter axle than the Katana's and are the same in style as the the OEM Katana's adjusters, albeit a cleaner design.
First step is removing the rear axle from the wheel. Pretty simple if you done it before. I backed out the tension of the chain adjusters before so there would be slack before pulling out the axle. The rear wheel does not need to be removed when doing this swap. Just put it on the center stand and let the wheel drop to the ground.
Essentially doing this swap is nearly plug-in-play. However as Krey stated some grinding is needed to fit the SV adjusters. Mostly for the inside corners. For this I used a Dremmel tool with a grinding wheel. The inside diameter of both the Katana's and that of the SV swing arm is nearly identical.
Now the ridge that you see on the right hand side in the above pic is there to match the SV's swing arm. It is not needed on the Katana, of course. If you keep the ridges facing outward as they are on the SV there are no clearance issues. If you want them to face inwards, then there maybe some issues. While facing inwards, towards the wheel, when mounted to the right hand (brake) side clearance is a non issue. For the left (sprocket) side there maybe an issue which I did not confirm. It looked like that ridge could come in contact with the sprocket bolts. I did not check it because I would need to re-install the axle/wheel/brake assembly just to find out, and I did not want to do that. So I just grinded it down anyways with a regular angle grinder. What I did was switch sides of the chain adjusters. This way you cannot see where the adjusters have been ground down since they are on the inside of the swing arm. If you wanted to face the ridges outward then no clearance issues would be experienced. But there will be two ridges sticking out a little. Or if you do grind them down, you'll see the raw metal. That is why I choose to grind them down and face them inwards.
Second procedure is to grind the sides of the SV adjusters as they are a very tight fit. Again I use my angle grinder do do that. This is the inside adjusters that slip inside the swing arm. A simple task. No pic of that. But you can see in the pic below the sides of both the Katana and the SV. That side that is facing you is what I took a grinder to.
Now I want to make an observation of the range between the Kat's adjusters and that of the SV's. The Kat has a grater range of adjustment then that of the SV. In the pic below each bolt or nut is seated to a minimum depth of where the Katana's bolt is flush with the threaded rod and for the SV, the bolt is flush with the welded nut on the inside. These are I would call minimum settings.
It does not look like much but when installed on the swing arm you can see that the SV's do not penetrate as far in as do the OEM's.
OEM adjusters:
SV650 chain adjusters:
As of right now it wasn't an issue as my chain has several thousand miles on it. If need be I can go to the hardware store to get a longer bolt. I know that the bolt has a pitch of 1.25 and when I measured the diameter on my digital caliper, with threads, it was a shade under 8mm.
And the final results?
And don't give me a me crap about my brake disk either, I haven't ridden the bike for a few weeks as I over-stressed my back and I've been caging it since then.
It would have been better to have purchased the aluminum colored adjusters, but these were very inexpensive. if need be I can buy another set.
The 1st generation SV650 chain adjuster have the same inside diameter as the Katana and they feature a flush hex bolt. The 2nd generation SV adjusters have a larger diameter axle than the Katana's and are the same in style as the the OEM Katana's adjusters, albeit a cleaner design.
First step is removing the rear axle from the wheel. Pretty simple if you done it before. I backed out the tension of the chain adjusters before so there would be slack before pulling out the axle. The rear wheel does not need to be removed when doing this swap. Just put it on the center stand and let the wheel drop to the ground.
Essentially doing this swap is nearly plug-in-play. However as Krey stated some grinding is needed to fit the SV adjusters. Mostly for the inside corners. For this I used a Dremmel tool with a grinding wheel. The inside diameter of both the Katana's and that of the SV swing arm is nearly identical.
Now the ridge that you see on the right hand side in the above pic is there to match the SV's swing arm. It is not needed on the Katana, of course. If you keep the ridges facing outward as they are on the SV there are no clearance issues. If you want them to face inwards, then there maybe some issues. While facing inwards, towards the wheel, when mounted to the right hand (brake) side clearance is a non issue. For the left (sprocket) side there maybe an issue which I did not confirm. It looked like that ridge could come in contact with the sprocket bolts. I did not check it because I would need to re-install the axle/wheel/brake assembly just to find out, and I did not want to do that. So I just grinded it down anyways with a regular angle grinder. What I did was switch sides of the chain adjusters. This way you cannot see where the adjusters have been ground down since they are on the inside of the swing arm. If you wanted to face the ridges outward then no clearance issues would be experienced. But there will be two ridges sticking out a little. Or if you do grind them down, you'll see the raw metal. That is why I choose to grind them down and face them inwards.
Second procedure is to grind the sides of the SV adjusters as they are a very tight fit. Again I use my angle grinder do do that. This is the inside adjusters that slip inside the swing arm. A simple task. No pic of that. But you can see in the pic below the sides of both the Katana and the SV. That side that is facing you is what I took a grinder to.
Now I want to make an observation of the range between the Kat's adjusters and that of the SV's. The Kat has a grater range of adjustment then that of the SV. In the pic below each bolt or nut is seated to a minimum depth of where the Katana's bolt is flush with the threaded rod and for the SV, the bolt is flush with the welded nut on the inside. These are I would call minimum settings.
It does not look like much but when installed on the swing arm you can see that the SV's do not penetrate as far in as do the OEM's.
OEM adjusters:
SV650 chain adjusters:
As of right now it wasn't an issue as my chain has several thousand miles on it. If need be I can go to the hardware store to get a longer bolt. I know that the bolt has a pitch of 1.25 and when I measured the diameter on my digital caliper, with threads, it was a shade under 8mm.
And the final results?
And don't give me a me crap about my brake disk either, I haven't ridden the bike for a few weeks as I over-stressed my back and I've been caging it since then.
It would have been better to have purchased the aluminum colored adjusters, but these were very inexpensive. if need be I can buy another set.
Comment