[DNLT]

Here it is the finished dash as promised!

I made the handlebar braces and the "bridge" with aluminun, using hose clamps to hold everything together.

the 4 leds substitute the dash lights (I will use only led for both indicator signal).

I bought an aftermaket fuel gauge, I took it apart and the electronics has been put into a small project box from radioshack.
The actual led meter had to be de-soldered from the original board and I resoldered with extension cables. In this way the fuel meter can fit on the dash, while the electronics can be placed inside the bike.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181273617467...84.m1497.l2649

In the end, everything got painted back and now it is ready for final installation.

[Slofuze]

Like

[DNLT]

Common size but different bolt patterns (either 3 or 4 bolts) from memory yours is 4 bolts so any slingshot gsxr or early bandit will do it, plenty of keyless caps around on ebay but the quality varies

yeah I ended up buying a cap that fits most suzuki (93 katana included) and it fits without problems.

I thought about the keyless.. very cool! and I would avoid another key to the ring....but my bike during the day will be parked outside and I really want to avoid kids opening it and throwing crap in it.




the leds that I bought (very cheap) turned out to be just crap.... as soon as instanlled the leads started to break and short circuit....

already purchased new ones to substitute!

[DNLT]

Painting Part 1

so finally I am in the final part of this project... by the end of the week.. the bike will be finished.

the tank has been completely paint stripped and the dent on the right side was pushed out and smoothed with bondo, while the plastic components are sanded all the way down to plastic.

Three coats of primer followed by wet sanding with 400 and then 600 sandpaper, to obtain a supersmooth finish prior the paint.

In addition, the look of the dash installed with the new LEDs.

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[Bkohs]

that looks great. cant wait to see the finished product.

[DNLT]

Painting part 2

I didnt want to spend hundreds of dollars with automotive epoxy paint, so I used high end spray paint (each can is 7$).

I used the best brand around and its called Montana Gold.

http://www.montana-cans.com/

This paint is generally used by graffiti people, it is few bucks more expensive than any you can find at Lowe's.. but the quality is way better. In addition, the color palette is composed of 250 different colors, so to get exactly the same suzuki racing colors.

After three coats of white, I wet sanded gently with 600 sand paper, so to provide the "epoxy like" smoothness.

I used 1/4in vinyl masking tape to draw the three stripes on the body. this tape is very flexible and it is perfect to better follow the bends of the tank and body parts.

I started to apply the three blue tones last night, so you ll have to wait for those pictures.

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[Bkohs]

But I dont want to wait.

[DNLT]

Painting part 3

finally two colors out of three are done!

the vinyl tape gives a really neat and clean paint edge

tomorrow is the last day of painting with the thrid stripe and the clear coat

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[shpielers]

Cool, diggin the updates!

[Bkohs]

Thats gonna look really good with the clear on there. Make sure you let the clear cure for a few days before you wet sand and buff. I've noticed with most rattle can clears they stay tacky for at least 48 hours after they are laid down. They may feel cured, but as soon as the heat from the buffing gets to them they get sticky. I've ruined a few paint jobs that way.

[DNLT]

Thats gonna look really good with the clear on there. Make sure you let the clear cure for a few days before you wet sand and buff. I've noticed with most rattle can clears they stay tacky for at least 48 hours after they are laid down. They may feel cured, but as soon as the heat from the buffing gets to them they get sticky. I've ruined a few paint jobs that way.

thanks for the advice!!!

this paint dries in less than an hour..but I will definitely wait a whole day before wet sanding.

I have a piece of aluminun that I use as test before starting to do anything on the body parts.

how many layer of clear coat do you suggest?

Cool, diggin the updates!

[Bkohs]

thanks for the advice!!!

this paint dries in less than an hour..but I will definitely wait a whole day before wet sanding.

I have a piece of aluminun that I use as test before starting to do anything on the body parts.

how many layer of clear coat do you suggest?

Because some of the paint you'll be spraying on is dry I would suggest 3 coats. You'll need one very light (mist) coat to get the dry paint tacky. Let that set for 5 to 10 minutes (usually 10, but because you're using fast drying paint you may only need to wait 5). Then do a mudium/wet coat to smooth everything over let that stand for 5 to 10 minutes, then do a wet coat this will be the glamour/protective coat to give you something to sand and buff on for a good finish and if you hppen to get light scratches, you should be able to work them out. Make sure it's not so wet that it runs, but you should have an even glossy (wet) coating over the entire piece. I'm asuuming by the quality of the paint you've already laid down, you know what you're doing, but just incase, make sure when you spray you use even passes with about a 50% overlap and spray all edges and corners first to avoid overspray on the main portion of the paint.

So after saying all of that. The best advice/suggestion I can give you is to not overthink it. Keep doing what you're doing and it will come out great! I used to do body and paint work for a living. I've painted everything from a Ferrari Testarossa to an old Ford Escort. As much as I hate to say it, the best paint I ever laid down was on that escort I mentioned. I didnn't even need to wet sad or buff it. it was as smooth as glass. I even used cheap paint on it. I think there was only about $200 worth of product on the car. My point to this rant is I didn't really care about the end result which meant I just did what felt right and it came out perfect. Just remember, it's only paint. Yes it may cost you and yes you will be pissed, but if you screw up, it can be redone.

[DNLT]

Because some of the paint you'll be spraying on is dry I would suggest 3 coats. You'll need one very light (mist) coat to get the dry paint tacky. Let that set for 5 to 10 minutes (usually 10, but because you're using fast drying paint you may only need to wait 5). Then do a mudium/wet coat to smooth everything over let that stand for 5 to 10 minutes, then do a wet coat this will be the glamour/protective coat to give you something to sand and buff on for a good finish and if you hppen to get light scratches, you should be able to work them out. Make sure it's not so wet that it runs, but you should have an even glossy (wet) coating over the entire piece. I'm asuuming by the quality of the paint you've already laid down, you know what you're doing, but just incase, make sure when you spray you use even passes with about a 50% overlap and spray all edges and corners first to avoid overspray on the main portion of the paint.

So after saying all of that. The best advice/suggestion I can give you is to not overthink it. Keep doing what you're doing and it will come out great! I used to do body and paint work for a living. I've painted everything from a Ferrari Testarossa to an old Ford Escort. As much as I hate to say it, the best paint I ever laid down was on that escort I mentioned. I didnn't even need to wet sad or buff it. it was as smooth as glass. I even used cheap paint on it. I think there was only about $200 worth of product on the car. My point to this rant is I didn't really care about the end result which meant I just did what felt right and it came out perfect. Just remember, it's only paint. Yes it may cost you and yes you will be pissed, but if you screw up, it can be redone.

thanks a lot for this suggests!!! I manage to give 5 coats on the tank and side fairings, progressively wetter, and it turned out great! im really proud of the results!

due to the odd shape of the tank some parts are less shiny than others (slight orange peel effect)

what do you suggest for polishing?

[DNLT]

Painting part 4

finally the painting is over! the dull look of the paint after wet sanding became smooth and shiny with the clear coat

I started to install the components back and I will take a picture in the next days, the last step will be to paint strip and repaint the rims.

now im managing to move from wv to ct! lol

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[Bkohs]

thanks a lot for this suggests!!! I manage to give 5 coats on the tank and side fairings, progressively wetter, and it turned out great! im really proud of the results!

due to the odd shape of the tank some parts are less shiny than others (slight orange peel effect)

what do you suggest for polishing?

If there are dull spots. let it sit for a couple days. The paint will dull a little due to curing. if you give it like 2 days the paint should be, for the most part, done. at that point you can wet sand (with a very fine grit) and buff it. for buffing I would use a slightly heavy rubbing compound first then use a finishing glaze (its basically just a low abrasive compound). DONT WAX IT. you'll have to wait about 3 months before you put any wax on there. Waxing is a very good way to ruin a great paint job. It can pull fresh paint and can cause it to bubble and peel. it also slows down the curing process because it doesn't allow the paint to breath. when it's time to wax, hit it with the finishing glaze first then give it a couple good coats of wax.

everything came out great so far. I cant wait to see it all come together. it's gonna look sick.