Fuel Petcock....leaking problem...

[sheldonk]

My 1998 Katana 600 just started leaking a small amount of fuel out of the petcock. I called my local dealer to order a new one but they said the part has been discontinued. When I searched for it on the internet I couldn't find anything either....what should I do? I have seen rebuild kits for them but am not sure how difficult it is/ would rather buy a new one to ease the mind. Does anyone have any suggestions for a fix or know where I can order a new one? Thanks for your time.

[steves]

Suzuki Part #44300-08F00 for the entire fuel cock. $73.85

They also sell rebuild kits for them too..... which will only set you back around $20. I think The CyberPoet sells them.

[arsenic]

search eBay there's alot of them there.

[The CyberPoet]

Yup, I sell the rebuild kits.
I think I just got another pile of them in today (I still have to go through the refill order I just received this afternoon).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Is it leaking from the o-ring , or from the cock itself ? Figure out WHERE it's leaking from , first .

[sheldonk]

It's leaking from the part that you twist. I removed the plastic piece and saw the gas driping from behind the little metal clasp that says on pri and res. Do I need a new petcock or can it be rebuilt? Thanks.

[steves]

Sounds like the diapragm.

[VifferJim]

That sounds like an easy rebuild. Mine was (among other things) doing the same thing - rebuild and save da $$.

[sheldonk]

How hard is a petcock to rebuild? I read somewhere that someone bought a rebuild kit and it didn't come with the part needed to fix the petcock, could this be an issue?

[steves]

Remove petcock from tank.

Remove the 4 screws that keep it together.

Replace the diapragm and o-ring.

Install new gasket between tank & petcock.

Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes, an hour if you drain the tank first.

When I did the 1100's I put the tank on the side so the fuel couldn't come out.

[EisBlade]

Detailed steps on rebuilding a pre98 fuel petcock

I just rebuilt my petcock last night so the steps are fresh. Like Steves, I was able to place the tank on it's side so that fuel was below the petcock opening. Mine was less than 1/2 full when I did this and I lost no fuel. To enhance the steps given above, I'd like to add the following detail with hopes of accomodating a smooth petock rebuild. Broken down into small steps, this rebuild is VERY easy.

TIME: approx. 20 minutes, more if draining the tank
TOOLS:
- a small ratchet and 10mm socket..preferred. (a large phillips head screwdriver will also work) The socket tightens best though.
- a screwdriver
- a very small screwdriver...or anything else thin that will wedge the knob clip off.


[For the sake of this instruction, the terms Up/Down/Left/Right/Back/Front refer to the petcock as if you were looking at it still installed on your bike. Vacuum is the "back" and the selector knob is to the front.]

- Turn the selector knob to face Down, in the center "Fuel/On" position.
- Remove petcock from tank and place the 2 screws off to the side, but trash the large o-ring that sealed it to the tank. Clean the tank surface from any irregular shapes and dirt. Reuse later the screws later..

BACK SIDE REBUILD (Vacuum)
1) Remove the 4 screws to the back (vacuum) metal cover.
2) Remove the metal vacuum cover.
2) Remove the spring under that cover and place aside for reuse.
3) There is a gasket between the vacuum cover and the vacuum diaphram. Trash the old gasket.
4) The plunger and diaghrams are all one assembly, with a white plastic plate in between the two diaghrams. Pull that aluminum plunger out through the hole of that white plastic plate. Trash the worn plunger and diaghram assy.

We will now install new parts to the vacuum side.

Two easy things to keep in mind...
- The white plate has a small hole in the outer edge. That always faces downward.
- The plate is concave shaped on one side. That side faces the back vacuum cover.

4) Locate the new plunger/diaghram assembly in the rebuild kit.
5) Separate the two diaphrams on the plunger assembly and hold one close to the plunger as you carefully work it through the white plastic plate. Though not too fragile, the diaghram should be pulled through so that it's all the way through and even on all sides when you're done. Once finished - check your work - the plunger should face the petcock, the two layers of diaphram are separated by the white plate, and the concave side of the plate should face the rear towards the vacuum cover. That concave section allows that small circular (washer?) on the back of the plunger to be fully depressed into the fuel port openings which stops gas flow when your bike is off and no vacuum is present. When running, the carbs will create vacuum that "pulls" this diaghram away from the fuel ports and allows fuel to flow into the fuel lines.
6) Carefully align the plastic plate and diaghrams with the 4 screw holes on the vacuum side - ensuring that the small white hole in the white plate is facing downward.
7) Next, place and align the paperlike gasket up with the diaghram assembly.
8. Grab the plunger spring that you pulled off initially and put it back in place over the center of the plunger.
9) Carefully place the vacuum cover over top of the spring so that the spring sits in the very center pocket of the cover.
10) Align all screw holes and then, using a screwdriver, tighten all screws down evenly.
*** You have completed the vacuum side.

FRONT SIDE REBUILD (Selector knob)
The only part on the front that could leak is the small o-ring on the selector knob shaft. To access...
1) Turn the knob so that if faces downward, to the Fuel/On position.
2) Apply slight pressure against the knob while using a small screwdriver or knife to separate the containing clip. Pry at corners to ease removal.
3) Trash the small thing spring. A new one is included in the rebuild kit.
4) Pull the knob off and replace the o-ring with the one supplied in the kit. (You can rotate and move the clip out of the way for this.)
5) The white insert should be aligned straight up/down, with the indented dot facing to the rear. The brass clip deep inside looks bent and distorted. Leave it; it's supposed to look like that.
6) Make sure you correct the retaining clip if you moved it when replacing the o-ring.
7) Put the new thin spring into the back side of the selector knob and align it with the plastic insert.
8. With the dot on the white insert facing to the rear, carefully align the spring in the knob with its center.
9) Evenly align the knob assembly and press it back into the petcock housing being careful not to pinch the o-ring. You may use MLP (WD-40 lubricant) to help. Heck, spit on it if nothing else.

Congratulations, you're finished. If you followed all steps above then your petcock will function correctly and you've used all parts of your rebuild kit. Using the last (large) o-ring, place it in the embedded track of the petcock and attached to your tank. Tighten firmly and evenly. Turn your tank right side up over a cloth or bin and check for leaks.

[md86]

Now THIS would be a good thing to put in the how-to section .....

[VifferJim]

And there was much rejoicing...

[rwcreigh]

Suzuki Part #44300-08F00 for the entire fuel cock. $73.85

They also sell rebuild kits for them too..... which will only set you back around $20. I think The CyberPoet sells them.

took the word right out of my mouth

[Hypersthene]

eisblade, thanks for the fantastic step by step. That made it super easy for me to do mine. In particular, thanks for the reassurance: "The brass clip deep inside looks bent and distorted. Leave it; it's supposed to look like that. " I was pretty worried when I took mine apart and saw that, until I reread this.

NOTE for the 98+, the petcock rebuild kit from cyberpoet works perfectly. The ONLY difference to the method so kindly laid out by eisblade is that there is no "paperlike gasket" in the 98+ petcock, so you should have that part left over when you are done. Hope this helps somebody.