Any Good Reasons for a Sprocket or Chain Change ?

[mharrison]

Well, I need a new chain, so I'm planning to get sprockets too. Since this would be the time for different sprockets, I have a few questions regarding changing the gearing.

If I'm happy with my bikes performance, is there any good reason to adjust the gearing? I mean, I'd like to launch a little harder, but I also enjoy my top end.

If I adjust the sprockets for a better low-end response what will I lose at the top of the RPM's? (It drops off towards the top end of the RPM range anyway.)

What would I lose top speed-wise? I very rarely run her up that high, but on occasion I do.

Also, what are the pros/cons of a chain size conversion?

I'd appreciate any thoughts since this is my first chain drive bike.

[The CyberPoet]

(A) Given what you had to say, I would recommend sticking with the stock gearing, or possibly increasing the rear sprocket size one or two teeth (and nothing else). If you increase the rear tooth count, you'll need a longer-than-stock chain (more teeth = more links required).

(B) Pro's of size conversion - a little bit of weight loss on the rotating mass of the bike. On a 512 lb bike, it's not likely to make any performance difference in terms of acceleration, braking. In terms of $$, it's penny-wise and dollar-foolish.
Con's of size conversion - lifespan of the chain, sprockets. Smaller chains (520's) have narrower rollers (less heat dissipation) narrower sprocket teeth (faster to deform & wear).

Hope that helps.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[mharrison]

So if I go with a 15/47 combination, what length chain would I need ?

I've decided I'd rather launch harder than hang on to my top speed. (I almost NEVER go there!)

[ZukiFred]

15/47 would be a 118 link chain.
This should be easy to find as a set also, for some reason the 750's came with the 15/45 and some came with the 15/47.

[The CyberPoet]

For a 15/47 combo on a 98+, order the 98+ Kat 600 kit (the 600 had a default sprocket combo of 15/47)

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Fredd]

I put the 98+ Kat 600 kit on my '06, 750.
Going from 15/45 to the 15/47, you do feel more pull. Not a real big change but enough to notice when you turn the thottle.

[mharrison]

What kind of change could I expect to see RPM-wise and what kind of fuel & top speed changes would this create?

Also how much do you think it would throw off my speedo?

Sorry for so many questions. Still new to chain drive bikes.

[The CyberPoet]

My 47-Tooth Katana Sprocket webpage has the exact percentages of changes you can expect, etc:

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/Katana_sprockets.html

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[bubba]

What kind of change could I expect to see RPM-wise and what kind of fuel & top speed changes would this create?

Also how much do you think it would throw off my speedo?

Sorry for so many questions. Still new to chain drive bikes.

My rear sprocket is -2 (43 tooth) and the speedo is exact. So I'm guessing it would throw it about 10 mph off since stock is about 5.

[chatty katty]

How does changing the gearing affect the speedo? The speedo cable is on the front tire on my 94.

[The CyberPoet]

How does changing the gearing affect the speedo? The speedo cable is on the front tire on my 94.

98+ Katana's read their speed electronically off a pick-up at the tranny output shaft (front sprocket basically).

Pre-98's don't have that issue, but are affected by tire size, cable condition and how healthy the spring in the speedo is.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[grumpyoldgit]

I read this post http://katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=24530 after reading my Haynes manual and was wondering if rivetting your own chain was as good as buying one factory formed?

Haynes manual says I need to remove the swingarm and everything in order to fit a new chain, but with the above rivetted chain option this would not be needed, giving me less downtime from riding.

[The CyberPoet]

If you work on the premise that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link:

A factory-closed-loop chain is 100% strong (the strongest chain available). The disadvantage is the need to remove the swingarm to install it -- not an issue at time of build at the factory, but a royal PIA after that.

A rivet-link chain is typically 95% of the strength of a factory-closed-loop chain. It's what most of us use after the initial chain is in need of replacement.

A clip-link chain is about 80-90% of the strength of a factory-sealed-loop chain.

Now, it's your call... personally, I use rivet link chains because it's fast, expedient, and 95% as good, which is good enough for me.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[grumpyoldgit]

If you work on the premise that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link:

A factory-closed-loop chain is 100% strong (the strongest chain available). The disadvantage is the need to remove the swingarm to install it -- not an issue at time of build at the factory, but a royal PIA after that.

A rivet-link chain is typically 95% of the strength of a factory-closed-loop chain. It's what most of us use after the initial chain is in need of replacement.

A clip-link chain is about 80-90% of the strength of a factory-sealed-loop chain.

Now, it's your call... personally, I use rivet link chains because it's fast, expedient, and 95% as good, which is good enough for me.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Thanks for the info

[The CyberPoet]

Actually, here's one more bit of info:

99.9% of owners never lube their lower shock mount bearings, swingarm bearings, etc. All of this is a logical thing to do if you are replacing an endless chain, and may play into the reason that if you order the factory part number for the chain, you get another endless chain. For most of us, it's not much of an issue, but you UK boys get the worstly salted roads I know of, and so it's an issue for GSXF models there (see the just-out issue of BIKE [UK] -- the one with the Kawasaki GT1400 on the cover for more details on this issue specifically on Katana's).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet