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Front Sprocket Recommendations

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  • #31
    You have four basic choices:

    (A) Pay a shop. If you're getting tires mounted anyway and the shop is fair/straight-up (& you use them semi-regularly or they're used to seeing your face), they'll typically only charge you an extra $10 - $20 to do it at the same time. All by itself, they tend to charge more ($40 - $80 is common). I usually do this for my own Kats, as I've never invested in a proper chain tool and tend to replace my chain about every 3rd set of tires (that's 36k miles typically for me).

    (B) Invest in a proper chain tool ($50 on eBay -- arsenic keeps posting a link for a light tool, or it's just shy of $100 for the heavy tool from most vendors). This full-duty chain tool lets you press out a link, press in a new one and mushroom the new one for install.

    (C) Do the same as above, but use at-hand tools. A dremel or other grinding tool to cut off the old mushroomed heads from any link in the old chain; a punch & hammer to knock the old link out afterwards, then a c-clamp to push in the new rivet-style masterlink if needed (many will just slide in). And finally, something to mushroom the head on the new rivet-style masterlink (chain tool is best, the edge of a nickel and a pair of vice-grips will work in a pinch but won't work nearly as well & is a PIA, or a hammer & pointed-punch will do if you can brace the back of the chain adequately to let you smack the front & dent it). I've done this for countless people, as well as for myself in eons gone by...
    Note that mushrooming the new one just right is the tricky bit -- too much and the link won't rotate; insufficient and the link could come off, letting your chain go flying down the road -- or worse yet, around your front sprocket & doing damages, or rear-sprocket & causing you to wreck.

    (D) Get a chain that uses a different kind of masterlink (something other than a rivet masterlink). Note that rivet masterlinks are the best common solution though, least likely to snap on you...
    EK makes a bolt-on masterlink (the nuts bolt on to mushroom the head, and get snapped off afterwards). Many vendors make clip-style masterlinks (but clip-style are literally asking for trouble, IMHO). You still need the dremel and potentially a hammer/punch to remove the old chain.

    Cheers,
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

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    • #32
      Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
      You have four basic choices:

      (A) Pay a shop. If you're getting tires mounted anyway and the shop is fair/straight-up (& you use them semi-regularly or they're used to seeing your face), they'll typically only charge you an extra $10 - $20 to do it at the same time. All by itself, they tend to charge more ($40 - $80 is common). I usually do this for my own Kats, as I've never invested in a proper chain tool and tend to replace my chain about every 3rd set of tires (that's 36k miles typically for me).

      (B) Invest in a proper chain tool ($50 on eBay -- arsenic keeps posting a link for a light tool, or it's just shy of $100 for the heavy tool from most vendors). This full-duty chain tool lets you press out a link, press in a new one and mushroom the new one for install.

      (C) Do the same as above, but use at-hand tools. A dremel or other grinding tool to cut off the old mushroomed heads from any link in the old chain; a punch & hammer to knock the old link out afterwards, then a c-clamp to push in the new rivet-style masterlink if needed (many will just slide in). And finally, something to mushroom the head on the new rivet-style masterlink (chain tool is best, the edge of a nickel and a pair of vice-grips will work in a pinch but won't work nearly as well & is a PIA, or a hammer & pointed-punch will do if you can brace the back of the chain adequately to let you smack the front & dent it). I've done this for countless people, as well as for myself in eons gone by...
      Note that mushrooming the new one just right is the tricky bit -- too much and the link won't rotate; insufficient and the link could come off, letting your chain go flying down the road -- or worse yet, around your front sprocket & doing damages, or rear-sprocket & causing you to wreck.

      (D) Get a chain that uses a different kind of masterlink (something other than a rivet masterlink). Note that rivet masterlinks are the best common solution though, least likely to snap on you...
      EK makes a bolt-on masterlink (the nuts bolt on to mushroom the head, and get snapped off afterwards). Many vendors make clip-style masterlinks (but clip-style are literally asking for trouble, IMHO). You still need the dremel and potentially a hammer/punch to remove the old chain.

      Cheers,
      =-= The CyberPoet

      here's the link CP is talking about:
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ksid=p3907.m32
      Here's another option:
      Motion Pro - High quality cables, tools and controls for motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles and personal watercraft.

      Here's all kinds of chain tools:
      Motion Pro - High quality cables, tools and controls for motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles and personal watercraft.
      Last edited by arsenic; 01-30-2008, 02:55 PM.

      Comment


      • #33
        wow!

        Holy crap... im in way over my head...
        so what i might do is buy a chain & sprocket kit and take that to the shop to be installed... or i might just buy parts from the shop... i dont have the tools or the money for tools like that...
        Please, Just go home, relax, and have a think or two... hell... have as many as you can handle! It'll do all of us some good.
        Tony
        94 Katana 600

        Comment


        • #34
          yeah, have them do it. We did it all the friggin time at Suzuki.

          Comment


          • #35
            I am good at many things, mechanics is not one. I can't come within a galaxy of the great knowledge here, but can say I dropped one tooth on the front of my '06 750. Gas mileage is minimally less. RPM's at crusing speed are higher (I don't ride freeways often). It will throttle wheelie (I am 245 lbs). Top end (at least on the speedometer) is 145.

            I did the same on my '91 750 seventeen years and 80 pounds ago. Crashed and burned on that bike.
            ROD

            Comment


            • #36
              So the question for me is to stay stock and keep good gas mileage ($3.15/gal) or add some ump to the kat in the low end. Decicions, decisions

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