Troubleshooting after Carb cleaning

[abaker1381]

Had a lot of issues with the carbs when i got my bike (93 600) fuel leaks from the fuel T valves and lots of vacuum leaks form missing caps on top and side. took the carbs out cleaned and replaced O rings and gaskets as well as the rubber seals on the T Valves. also replaced the vent T's. did a pre sync till i could get the carb back on the bike and started to sync it while running.

when i got the bike it was running rough and occationally shutting off when idle.

after the clean and rebuild i put it all back together and primed the carbs. tried to start it and it wouldn't start up. i pulled the carbs back off and checked the boots to the engine and there was fuel on the boots so i know fuel was getting through.

Any Help?

[arsenic]

In order to diagnose that, you first have to understand how carburetors work. The pilot circuit is what is used to start your bike. Therefore, your pilot jets are not as clean as you think. The pilot jets are the jets under the rubber plug, down inside the tube. Use an 1/8" flat head screw driver to get them out. Than soak them overnight. Make sure you can see light through them, blow compressed air throught them. Put them back in. The correct size is 32.5

[scottynoface]

[arsenic]

He already did, just not enough

[abaker1381]

thnx much, will attack that then report the results.

[arsenic]

make sure you apply a lot of pressure on that screw driver as you turn. If you strip the pilot jets you make things harder.

[abaker1381]

as i was reading ur last comment i was removing the jets and i can't get the tip to set in 2 of them. so the will not come out.... suggestions?

[arsenic]

screw extractor, that's the not fun part. Drill a hole, and use a #1 screw extractor. Don't drill too deep or you'll drill through the carb body, just drill enough to get a bite with the extractor.

[abaker1381]

lol while waiting i set the flat head in and gave it a tap with a hammer... not to hard just enough to get it to set.... i was trying to save the jets... which worked(i was lucky) no damage besides a slightly deeper recess. going to soak them overnight .. last time i just sprayed them with cleaner, i guess that goes to show ya that the quick way isn't the best way

[arsenic]

make absolutely 100% sure you can see light through them. Blow through them with compressed air.

[MikeyZ]

Heres a key:
Blow them from the SMALL end towards the BIG end. It will flush all the debri out as opposed to getting it stuck.

[abaker1381]

ok let them soak over night, and blew them all out. i could def see through them. put the carbs back together then the airbox on. hooked up the throttle, choke fuel lines and vent hoses and connected back to the engine boots.

instead of putting the tank back on i used a secondary source to test it out... hooked the 2 fuel lines up to a tank and put gas in... and still nothing starter is still turning but no combustion. i loosened the fuel drain screws on the bowls to see if fuel was getting to it and there was def fuel there... what else could be my problem...?

(btw i changed the ignition in the process of this because my key broke off... prob from my frustration....)

[arsenic]

spark plugs (a little of what I'd used to say) If that was the problem all along, I owe you a shot in the nuts! (Fred, Steve, I'm joking, please don't think I'm serious)

[hardlydangerous]

yeah. check for hydro to the plus, also make sure the throttles are fully closed. I had a customer last year could not get his bike running after carb work, only to find out the throttles were stuck open.

I dont mess with old plugs I just replace them... Ive seen them in my champion plug machine fire in open air but not fire under 150psi.

Could be your starter circuit plugged up. Its a pain to remove all the chake valves but that is needed to properly clean the starter jet circuit.

[arsenic]

I think you mean "choke" valves, I'm I on the same page? You mean choke plungers correct? You gotta separate the 4 carbs to do that. At the very least remove #1 and #4.