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Custom Luggage Rack

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  • #16
    Originally posted by kc5qdf View Post
    awesome job! I really wanted a sport touring bike but the deal I got on my pre-kat was so good I bought it. I really love the bike but there just doesn't seem to be much out there for equipping it for touring. I think I will follow your lead and build my own. What kind of luggage did you use? Think I am gonna make some handle bars that will sit me up a little more for those long rides
    Yeh - you've got yourself a sports-tourer, but not everyone makes the accessories to fit a Kat to transform it into a more dedicated tourer. SHAD make a complete rack for a post, but not sure about the pre. However, their cases and therefore I assume racks were only rated to carry 5kg (about 11lb) each. I ended up going with KAPPA luggage (part of the GIVI stable) with each piece rated for 10kg - and compared with GIVI, Hepco Becker, SW Motech ..., the price was attractive, and compared with the likes of R-Jays, the quality was definitely attractive. I ordered the cases directly from Italy for about 2/3 the price here in Oz including shipping. You probably have much better pricing in the US.

    Had I known I had more time to make the rack I would have done it differently. And now that a mate has a pipe bender, I will probably re-make it out of tube when the inclination strikes so it will be stronger and lighter.

    Another option is to use generic boxes. I was tempted to use Pelican-style cases as the side cases, but couldn't source a cheaper imitation of the right size. A tool box can make a useful top box too.

    Also, check this site. A few members have managed to add handlebars to give a more upright riding position so there are probably write-ups on how to do it.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by loudnlow7484 View Post
      Errr.... just what kind of bike do you think the kat is?
      I didn't know a kat was a sport touring bike I thought it was more of a sport racing bike. I am still new. I really like my Kat but there doesnt seem to be much in the way of accessories or mods for the pre-kat.

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      • #18
        Don't feel too bad. One of the main reasons (IMHO) people trash-talk the Kat so much is that they think it's going to be a super-sport and then discover that it doesn't handle or accelerate like that. Where the Kat comes into its' own is when you take it for really long rides. Even bone stock, it's not particularly painful for up to about 5 hours. Add a Corbin and 8-12 hour days are easily done. The one big place it's lacking is in luggage options. Hence this thread...
        Wherever you go... There you are!

        17 Inch Wheel Conversion
        HID Projector Retrofit

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        • #19
          Not the first time I've said this to a stranger... nice rack!

          Less change of getting slapped this time though.

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          • #20
            So were is a question how did you actually attach the side cases so your frame? The reason I ask is that im thinking about having someone help me build of of these rather than buying a new bike that has more options.

            If you go with the Givi. Monokey (kappa) options they you would still have to attach the attachment portion of their system into your frame? Or am I missing somthing. There is a picture missing that could explain what i'm not seeing
            Last edited by Bigyellowkat; 09-20-2013, 02:09 PM. Reason: clarification

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            • #21
              TRPUT -

              Great work on this rack, literally and inspiration to me.

              Now that you've lived with the rack for a couple years, would you make any changes as to how you went about it? Attachment points, size, materials, structure, etc.?

              It would be interesting to know before I dive in on making my own rack.
              Last edited by skjeflo; 11-04-2013, 04:39 PM.

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              • #22
                Cool...........
                sigpic
                98 Katana 750 89 Katana 600
                Corbin Gunfighter & Scorpion Pipe

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by garethpn View Post
                  Not the first time I've said this to a stranger... nice rack!

                  Less change of getting slapped this time though.

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                  • #24
                    Sorry - hadn't realised this thread had been reborn ...

                    Originally posted by skjeflo View Post
                    TRPUT -

                    Great work on this rack, literally and inspiration to me.

                    Now that you've lived with the rack for a couple years, would you make any changes as to how you went about it? Attachment points, size, materials, structure, etc.?

                    It would be interesting to know before I dive in on making my own rack.
                    Thanks.

                    The rack has had some serious use over the last 2 years, and it's done a great job of hauling lots of weight.

                    Like I said previously, had I known I had more time, I would have done a few things differently ... and I probably wouldn't have made a couple of minor errors.

                    Firstly, I set the plate for the top box to be horizontal with the bike on the centre stand as I was working on it, not thinking that when I drop the bike down to running level, that plate would slope backwards. Result: the lid of the top box doesn't stay open, and it would look a little better if set to slightly rise towards the rear.

                    I'm very happy with how the rack mounts to the frame. 6 fixing points. Very sturdy and clears the plastics nicely. If I started from scratch, I wouldn't change any of the mountings or side case mounts. It's great to have RHS rather than tube here in the way it holds the cases firmly. (Some may prefer to use tube solely.) However, things get a bit ugly from here back. In an under-supplied non-workshop and with rusty skills, getting the angles and welding then reinforcing the joins etc to get the rises to the top box mount was a PITA and not pretty. One day, my plan will be to:

                    - Cut the rack just behind the side case mounts before it begins to rise.
                    - Cut it again near the top, just below where the clearance lights are mounted.
                    - Remove that section completely and replace it with some tube, bent to the correct angle and inserted into the side case mount RHS at the bottom and top box mount at the top. It can be secured by drilling and tapping then fitting small bolts. Starting from scratch, the option would be to run tube all the way from the side case mounts back, but since I have the top section already done, I would re-use that. Bent tube would make it a lot neater than currently, and in doing this, I will alter the angle slightly so the top box mount plate slopes up to the rear and the lid stays open.

                    Many commercial rack kits include mounts to the rear foot pegs or a support across at the rear to brace the side case mounts and stop the loaded side cases from springing in and out. Mine don't move - partly due to the rigidity of the rack and also with some support from the addition rack across the back seat, which braces the side cases above rather than below the seat.

                    I went with Kappa luggage and SW Motech mounting plates for top box and panniers. Again, with more time, I would have sourced a couple of Pelican-style cases - but generic versions at 1/4 the price - to use as side cases. Just didn't think I had the time to invent and make the whole mounting system. I would love to find a Givi style mounting plate you can screw to any case to make it Monokey compatible.

                    And lastly, whether you use RHS or tube, as long as you have a decent welder and welding skills, you can make it a lot lighter than I did. I would recommend 2mm steel, but you can probably get away with 1.6 mm (whatever that is in inches) - which is still heavier gauge than most commercial systems. All up, with rack and plates and mounting hardware for the cases, my rack tips the scales at around 10 kg (22lb) - and that is after some hole drilling to shed some weight. That would worry some people. It doesn't really worry me, because in the scheme of things (with bike weight, me, and the actual luggage itself) saving a few pounds on the rack is insignificant.

                    I'll try to post some more detailed pics if I have the chance, to answer some of the other questions. I was hoping to make my mods to it before the next big trip - around 8000 kms over Christmas - but I think time will beat me.
                    Last edited by TRPUT; 11-04-2013, 05:52 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Awesome, thanks!

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by TRPUT View Post
                        The rack is now complete ...

                        Paint shop.


                        Frame fitted.


                        Loaded and ready to tour.



                        All up cost including consumables about $120 - plus a few days of messing around - and it seems to work a treat.
                        That little lock box just really screams " Steal me " to me. Maybe because I think theres a nice little handgun in it

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                        • #27
                          As requested, photos re-posted.

                          This was the final incarnation of the rack for my lap of Australia. It successfully carried everything I needed for 15 weeks on the road, including being self sufficient in food for over a week at a time. That totalled up to 80 kg (almost 180 pounds) over some pretty crappy roads at times - completely issue-free.















                          Last edited by TRPUT; 02-02-2016, 07:11 AM.

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                          • #28
                            Hi TRPUT,
                            Thank you very much for reposting pics!

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                            • #29

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