When I took my rims apart to get them powder coated I removed the two bearings and large spacer from the rear rim. I am having a hell of a time putting the rear bearings back in, should I just hammer them? I think the bearing on the brake disc side sits flush with the lip of the rim, but the bearing on the sprocket side sits in the disc itself...make sense? I hope I am asking that right. Am I safe to beat on that bearing with a rubber hammer to try to get it to sit tight, and should it sit in there so the spacer is wedged between the two bearings? Thanks for any and all help.
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
X
-
The optimal method for putting the bearings in, is by pressing them in. A hydrolic press, or a mechanical press for instance. A simple home made mech "press" can simply be a large bolt, with spacers on either side... tighten down the nut on the bolt to compress the spacers and push both bearings in at the same time.
If that isn't an option, then you can try using a pipe or socket that matches the outter diam of the bearing, and gently using small taps "hammer" the bearing back in. This could potentially cause a problem if you don't make sure it's evenly going back in, or get to agressive with it.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
-
Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostThe optimal method for putting the bearings in, is by pressing them in. A hydrolic press, or a mechanical press for instance. A simple home made mech "press" can simply be a large bolt, with spacers on either side... tighten down the nut on the bolt to compress the spacers and push both bearings in at the same time.
If that isn't an option, then you can try using a pipe or socket that matches the outter diam of the bearing, and gently using small taps "hammer" the bearing back in. This could potentially cause a problem if you don't make sure it's evenly going back in, or get to agressive with it.
Krey1st - 1983 Honda NightHawk 550 - Restored and sold
2nd - 1992 Suzuki GSX1200G - Fixed it and sold
3rd - 1991 Suzuki Katana 600 ( streetfighter ) - Fixing and keeping
4th - 1992 Suzuki Katana 600 - Fixing and keeping
Comment
-
Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostThe optimal method for putting the bearings in, is by pressing them in. A hydrolic press, or a mechanical press for instance. A simple home made mech "press" can simply be a large bolt, with spacers on either side... tighten down the nut on the bolt to compress the spacers and push both bearings in at the same time.
If that isn't an option, then you can try using a pipe or socket that matches the outter diam of the bearing, and gently using small taps "hammer" the bearing back in. This could potentially cause a problem if you don't make sure it's evenly going back in, or get to agressive with it.
Krey
Like the man said, a socket that matches the OUTER diameter. Not one that sits on the side plates, not one that sits on the inside. Otherwise you can... umm...... make little indents in the track the balls run in. (I used to know the term for that kind of bearing damage.... it sounds like "brunette" but that's not it...)
BTW- if they powder coated the part that the bearing sits in, it will likely be VERY tight. It's already a tight fit, so after adding the thickness of the powder coating, it would be even more so.Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.
Comment
-
First off you really need to replace the bearings with new not use the old ones, any damage to the old bearings caused by removal COULD cause it to collapse, which i can tell you from experiance is no fun at 50-60mph, if this does happen the bearing seat usually gets screwed, so does your nice shiny wheel & possibly the rest of the bike & yourself, really not worth it for the price of two bearings ( 3 if you replace the sprocket carrier bearing too)
Any powdercoat in the bearing seat needs to be removed or it will never seat properly, freezing the bearing then lightly tapping it home with a suitable sized drift will work a treat
toneRenthals & twin spots do not make a streetfighter !
Comment
-
Originally posted by diavolo View PostLNL - the word you are looking for is brinell - sort of like a hammered finish. Definitely not good for the longevity of the assembly.Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.
Comment
Comment