[Angrytoaster]

figuring in that i could probably pay 1500 for it it still wouldnt be a good buy? I dont mind spending a bit of money on it, but does it seem over the top to you? ( I have no experience in this sort of thing)

So far on my list i had:
clutch lever (20-30$)
foot peg (15$ ebay'ed)
rear fairing (50-70 bay)
possible full fairing mockup, worst case scenario 400$
possible swingarm (95$ on the bay, one new for 150$)
Screen (70$ if i go for a zGravity)
Lenses (50 max)

seeing what i could recoup with the beetle bags to defer the cost, do you think i could pull it off for under 2g? or pass?

Whats the main point of concern here?

john
(still hanging on to my hopes )

[zuma]

I have to go with Brett (Free Coffee) on this. I don't like the bent back part of the frame. See, you're going to want to take this thing past 140 mph at one point or another, and that's bad joo joo on a questionable frame. Jus' sayin'...

[Free Coffee]

It's hard to say without knowing all the facts- I'm just worried you'll get into a mess with it is all. 'Gotta do what you gotta do bro. Just keep in mind that you will run into unforeseen problems with that kind of damage.

If you decide to go for it I'll get you all the info/help I can.

[Angrytoaster]

Thanks for the reality check guys. This thing is a mountain of power on a frame i cant possibly be certain of. Might still go down with a parts list tomrrrow totalling what it all would be and try to get it dirrrrrty cheap hoping he will either be extremely insulted and say no or give it to me for 700 bucks.

[zuma]

Well, best wishes, but be careful bro.

[Angrytoaster]

Oh boy. Saw a b12 just now with an actual title for the same price. 2001, unmodified, good shApe claimed.

Really puts to perspective what a skeezy deal this is. While id like to fix it up and go a hundred and eighty miles an hour, im a college student with not alot of money or time to dick with this.

Free coffee, zuma, thanks for the reality check again. I need to find a cure for this vehicle ad-hd.

[DClark]

The frame is probably the biggest reason the bike was totalled. When I was trained in insurance adjusting, were were told that a bent frame would likely be reason to total out a bike.
This is because along with the cost of all the plastic that has to be fix/replaced, to properly fix a frame (and they can almost always be fixed to factory specs) you have to remove practically everything off the bike to do it right.
Now, some might say that is necessary, in some cases a little pounding here or there, etc, can fix it, but from an insurance company point of view, if things are not fixed to the letter of how it should be done, you are looking at a high speed liability.
Run away from that bike!

[loudnlow7484]

The frame is probably the biggest reason the bike was totalled. When I was trained in insurance adjusting, were were told that a bent frame would likely be reason to total out a bike.
This is because along with the cost of all the plastic that has to be fix/replaced, to properly fix a frame (and they can almost always be fixed to factory specs) you have to remove practically everything off the bike to do it right.
Now, some might say that is necessary, in some cases a little pounding here or there, etc, can fix it, but from an insurance company point of view, if things are not fixed to the letter of how it should be done, you are looking at a high speed liability.
Run away from that bike!

I've seen bikes with a good scrape on the frame that got totaled as well. I guess insurance companies probably don't want to risk that scrape being in a highly stressed area and being just enough for it to let go at 160mph or so.....


And yeah, for me frame damage is a sure sign to walk away. There are too many bikes out there to end up on one that has been tweaked like that.

[Angrytoaster]

Took my mechanic friend to see it today. We got it up on the stand and he had a good long once over on it. When we got the bags off, we noticed that the tweak wasnt the frame, it was the fairing plastic being knocked over( the tail section, if you will) and that the beetle bags could probably be at fault for this (Wider *** end, went down on its side and the tail section was thrown over)

He's positive that its straight as an arrow. The frame seemed to be the big point for walking away, so now knowing that its not going to run the tire off sideways at 140+, should I still be interested in persuing it?

[Free Coffee]

Fire an email off to "Wes" at [email protected]. Tell him what you're up to (thinking of restoring a Zed) and the parts you think you'll need. They're good about getting back to you quickly and you'll have a better mental framework for what you're doing. Also- you won't find cleaner, less expensive ZZR parts anywhere.

If you trust your mechanic- go for it. As I said, it's hard to give you a good opinion without going over the bike.

[Angrytoaster]

Thanks for the contact!

I just cant get over the bike. It runs and drives, its just worse for wear with the cosmetics...
Its a beast, and if i can get it pricepoint and restore it over time, its due to be an epic machine that Ill never want to get rid of. Pricing things out on the bay\OEM right now. I will shoot them an email tonight.
John

[zuma]

Hey, I'm digging your enthusiasm. Glad it wasn't the frame after all. If you get it like you want it, you'll make it a life long friend. I just climbed off mine a minute ago coming in from a gig 70 miles away...wish I had 70 more miles to go actually. Good luck with it if it's a go.

[Angrytoaster]

Im going hardball tomorrow. I like the guy and he seems reasonable so im bringing printouts of everything it will take to fix it (OEM and EBAY considered), some printouts of what actual nonsalvage bikes in its mileage\year range go for, and going to try to see what I can do. Saw a few zzr12's for 4k range on ebay in pristine condition so that makes his price ridiculous. Figuring in 700$ to fix, and cutting the bikes restored value in half, if it comes out PRISTINE, the actual value of this bike needs to be somewhere near a thousand in its current condition.

To coffee\zuma, I dont think I understand how the fairings work. the left side is trashed, as is the left hand side of the front cowl, the right fairing is OK. I was trying to find these seperate on EBAY without luck, mainly because I dont know what they look like alone, any insight?

[zuma]

Give me a minute...I'm looking for a website for you...

Okay...if you go to bikebandit.com and type in "your" bike, then go to "body and fenders" and finally "cowling lowers" you will see an exploded diagram of the cowling that you need. The specific number is on each part along with the price listed in the chart below the diagram. Free Coffee may know of a less expensive vendor. Hope that your mounting receivers on the frame aren't broken or otherwise distorted, but even so, it can be remedied. Don't forget twistie ties (as a last resort).

[Free Coffee]

If you're replacing the upper fairing, and- eh...you should do that, it's going to be the biggest expense you're looking at. It's one MAMMOTH piece of plastic that extends from the windscreen, over the ramair intakes and down the insides of the left and right main fairings almost all the way down to where they meet beneath the radiator. Still, you shouldn't be looking at any more than $350/$375 shipped in excellent condition.

The plastics, in my opinion, could have been better thought out. The first few times I took her clothes off were a little confusing. But you'll get it. Just picture the fairings in three pieces (because....they're in three pieces). One main upper and the two smaller sides. You're probably going to need a mirrror bracket too, just glancing at yours. If they're out of kerwhack the upper won't sit right and it'll make for ugly seams all around it.

Also- just a side note. When I bought mine I changed the oil to Mobil1 4T- ran it like 100 miles or so and replaced it with new again. Use a Kawasaki filter from a Kawasaki dealer that says Kawasaki on the Kawasaki box that was made by Kawasaki (get it?) They have more media than the others I've looked at. There are THREE drainplugs including the one on the filter housing. Pull all three or you'll be wondering why your literbike only gave up 2 1/2 pints. Take good care of the engine. Costwise they're not replaceable- period.

Nose and dash- http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/.../Group/Cowling

Sides- http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...Cowling_Lowers