[Tmod]

More or less out of necessity, and I did mistakenly order the wrong emulators but then happened across a cheap ebay 600 front end.

no there is no problem on my end, just that my bottom fork legs on the 750 are beat up (drain holes stripped and jb welded shut, pinch on the left side cracked), and I scored a cheap pre 600 front end on ebay (40 shipped). I will be using the 600 lowers, oil locks and damping rods, and the 700 sliders and triple clamps. Looking at the parts list, it works. (the damping rod is the only difference between the 600/750.

I am no stranger to swapping front ends, I am running a cb700sc front end on my GS450 rat bike.

Sounds reasonable to me.

Tmod

[ep87]

Tmod
You have a set of the FEGV S3801 emulators you want to sell. I just missed a set on ebay off a SV650 with 9.0 springs that went for $32 + shipping last weekend. how Much?
Richard

[Tmod]

Tmod
You have a set of the FEGV S3801 emulators you want to sell. I just missed a set on ebay off a SV650 with 9.0 springs that went for $32 + shipping last weekend. how Much?
Richard

Well damn I just sent that set to Steve and I was just at Racetech picking up my order. I should be going back in a few days if you can hang on for a bit.

BTW emulators would go for right around $130.00 + shipping.

Tmod

[ep87]

Well damn I just sent that set to Steve and I was just at Racetech picking up my order. I should be going back in a few days if you can hang on for a bit.

BTW emulators would go for right around $130.00 + shipping.

Tmod

Tmod Thats a little more then I can spend right now, If my wife see's another package come UPS or USPS She'll divorce me. LOL. I've been buying bike parts left and right for my bike projects. But I have a extra set of 600 forks that I'll start on as soon as the Katana's back on the road. I'll probably have you get me the emulators, threaded pre load adjuster, and spring fro my r6 shock at the same time.
Thanks Richard

[Tmod]

Tmod Thats a little more then I can spend right now, If my wife see's another package come UPS or USPS She'll divorce me. LOL. I've been buying bike parts left and right for my bike projects. But I have a extra set of 600 forks that I'll start on as soon as the Katana's back on the road. I'll probably have you get me the emulators, threaded pre load adjuster, and spring fro my r6 shock at the same time.
Thanks Richard

No problem, I understand. Keep a eye on Ebay as sometimes they sell used emulators and I cannot compete with those prices. As for the other items let me know. You know when you install the threaded adjuster you must dis-assemble the shock to install it. I did make a spacer to eliminate the need for the threaded adjuster but you still won't have the range with it, It just allows the shorter aftermarket spring to be used with the stock cam adjuster.

Tmod

[loudnlow7484]

Looking at the R6 shock, it looks like the adjuster might be able to come off without taking it apart if you round the corners of the bottom mount. I haven't tried (even with the adjuster at the lightest setting, that spring still has quite some preload on it!), but it appears that way. What do you think?

[Tmod]

Looking at the R6 shock, it looks like the adjuster might be able to come off without taking it apart if you round the corners of the bottom mount. I haven't tried (even with the adjuster at the lightest setting, that spring still has quite some preload on it!), but it appears that way. What do you think?

Yeah that might work out ok, I have one here I can try it on. Shouldn't take alot of trimming to do that.

Tmod

[loudnlow7484]

Is it worth it to try it? I mean, does the shock work well with a stiffer spring without changing the valving?

[Tmod]

Is it worth it to try it? I mean, does the shock work well with a stiffer spring without changing the valving?

If you are making a very small change in spring rate then you might get away with just changing the spring and not the valving. Anytime you change the spring you should revalve to compensate for the lighter or stiffer rate of the spring. I did a shock for a ZX6-R for a 120 lb rider and just the spring alone did not accomplish what he wanted as I sent him out after the spring and he said it was better but still not where it should be, After revalving I sent him back out and he came back with a big grin on his face and he now loves the bike. I realize that is not pertaining to a kat with a R6 shock but that applies to all shocks and spring combination's. Yes the R6 shock has all the adjustments but you have to remember that the adjusters can only change the shock by about 3% and the valving covers the other 97% of the damping along with the spring. So if you put a 200 lb stiffer spring on the shock and then left the valving stock you still won't have a shock that is performing the way it should.

The stock Kat dampers are way over damped and use a weaker spring than most would need. That makes for a soft ride but they pack as the rebound is very stiff. To give you a idea on spring rate required, I weigh 210 and the stock post 750 kat spring is rated at 600 lbs and I needed a 1000 lb spring to make it correct. That is quite a jump from stock rate.

So enough of my rambling and I probably took off on some other tangent than I should have but there is my $.02

Tmod

[loudnlow7484]

No, that's actually exactly what I was asking. So if a person wanted to swap to a 12 kg/mm aftermarket spring (obviously a person larger than I), they should definitely have it revalved? That's a 20% stiffer spring, so unless the R6 shock is severely overdamped from the factory, it will probably make it a little bit bouncy, no?

[Tmod]

No, that's actually exactly what I was asking. So if a person wanted to swap to a 12 kg/mm aftermarket spring (obviously a person larger than I), they should definitely have it revalved? That's a 20% stiffer spring, so unless the R6 shock is severely overdamped from the factory, it will probably make it a little bit bouncy, no?

From what I have seen by taking the valving apart and from other riders using the R6 shock I think the valving is pretty close for the stock 9.8 kg/mm spring. So yes if you go to a stiffer spring I would at least make the rebound side a little stiffer. Something has to control that extra energy you just added. Anyway out of all the shocks that I have done so far I would say that the post kat 750 would be the best candidate for a stiffer spring without any valving changes as it is already very slow on rebound and compression is stiff. The idea behind all of this is to make the adjusters usable for you, if the valving is where it should be for your weight and spring rate then you have a tuneable combination.

Tmod

[ep87]

No problem, I understand. Keep a eye on Ebay as sometimes they sell used emulators and I cannot compete with those prices. As for the other items let me know. You know when you install the threaded adjuster you must dis-assemble the shock to install it. I did make a spacer to eliminate the need for the threaded adjuster but you still won't have the range with it, It just allows the shorter aftermarket spring to be used with the stock cam adjuster.

Tmod

Tmod
I'll probably go with the RT threaded adjuster. And after reading the last few posts I might just have you revalve the the r6 shock at the same time. I agree that spring rate can only do so much. I ride a lot more dirt then
street, and weighing 225 most dirt bikes come springed and valved for a avg. rider in the 175-185 range. I currently have two yamaha 450f bikes
one for track and one for enduro/trail riding. I learned over the years to change the spring rate to match my weight as one of the first and most beneficial mods to these bikes, but I'm never 100% happy till ave addressed the valving to match
Thanks Richard

[Old Aussie Kat]

r6 shock

I bought an 05-06 R6 shock to fit to my pre 600. I'm hoping it will do the job or is there a particular year/model shock required for this swap, I did search btw before asking.

[Tmod]

I bought an 05-06 R6 shock to fit to my pre 600. I'm hoping it will do the job or is there a particular year/model shock required for this swap, I did search btw before asking.

I don't think there is a clevis on the end of that but rather a rod end which will not work with the stock linkage. The desirable years are 08~09 as they take less modding than the 06~07 R6 shocks.

Tmod

[loudnlow7484]

I don't think there is a clevis on the end of that but rather a rod end which will not work with the stock linkage. The desirable years are 08~09 as they take less modding than the 06~07 R6 shocks.

Tmod

I didn't know that. What changed for 08-09?