vibration

[mrock]

what can I do to keep vibration down...best grips for vibration..ect...any help will be greatly appreciated.

[trinc]

quit riding in the buzz zone ( usually around 5-6k rpms )

a trait of all inline 4's

tim

[The CyberPoet]

Do a search for Vibration in the mechanics forum.

One of the first threads you'll find is this one:
Vibration, Vibration, Vibration
which will help explain everything.

Generally:
Heavier bar end weights
Heavier bars
good grips
valve adjustment and carb sync
balanced tires

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[mrock]

Got it, thanks

[mrock]

I also hear you can use spray foam insulation in your handlebars...sounds weird...but does make sense.

[katana bob]

I bought a set of gel grips. they don't help at all.

[SweetLou]

Don't use spray foam, use lead shot. The more weight, the less vibration.

[mx916]

Pro Grip Gel grips helped me out a bit.

[BISQ]

Probably the most effective solution is to loosen up on the bars. You should have relaxed arms and nearly open hands when you ride---especially on long hauls.

The number one cause of numb hands isn't vibration, it's gripping too tightly.

All of the other tips on vibration control are good, though.

[minig0d]

This may be a dumb question but how do you get the BB's or lead shot into the handlebars... from what I remember when you take off the bar end they are threadeded into some kind of endplate on the bar... do you just pour them through that hole or is there a way to get them in... and you say silicone... do you put a little bit of silicone in and then some lead, then more silicone then lead etc... or just put all the lead in and then put some silicon at the ends to keep it all packed in?

[The CyberPoet]

This may be a dumb question but how do you get the BB's or lead shot into the handlebars... from what I remember when you take off the bar end they are threadeded into some kind of endplate on the bar... do you just pour them through that hole or is there a way to get them in... and you say silicone... do you put a little bit of silicone in and then some lead, then more silicone then lead etc... or just put all the lead in and then put some silicon at the ends to keep it all packed in?

The other end of the handle bar tube has a plastic cap on it that can be popped off in the case of the 600's (or on the 750's may end inside the risers, can't recall). That means you have an opening the size of the tube's inside.
As for the silicone -- your call. Personally, I pumped the silicone bathroom caulk onto a paper plate, poured on the BB's, stirred and spooned the result into the bar & pressed it down. Probably not the best method, and the one mistake I made was not letting it sit open-end-down for a couple days while the caulk dried out (won't make that mistake again). I did remember to cover the bolt that holds the barweights with antiseize and stick it in the hole before the stuff set-up, though, to make sure the required space wasn't blocked up by BB's that wouldn't move.

If I were to do it again:
I'd use lead shot instead of brass BB's, no matter how I held it in place. Denser, more readily maliable.
I'd seriously consider using a hotplate and melting the lead if viable.
I'd let the tube air-dry open-end down for a couple days if I used caulk again (you want something that will absorb vibrations, so epoxy probably isn't the ticket).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[minig0d]

open end down or up? I don't really ride the kat much do you think I could just do something like this:

take off the bolts that hold on the clip ons and tip them cap side upwards (leaving all the levers and cables attached and maybe zip typing them that way until the stuff dries)... then mix some latex bathroom caulk with some lead shot and push it in the hole and then let sit to dry a few days...

This would be done leaving the barends on so would'nt have to worry about that space being filled and I don't think latex caulk is strong enough to worry about not being able to get the bar ends off at a later point...

sound like it'll work to you or do you have a better modification to this plan?

[The CyberPoet]

The problem was that the caulk formed a liquid (vinegar & water as far as I could tell), and I wanted that to drain, because it started rusting the surface of metal almost immediately (esp. at the threads for the bar-end weight's bolt). Thus, I say large opening down, so the bigger surface can drain readily... Maybe flip it over later.

I took the whole shebang off the bike (much easier to work with when packing the stuff in there, only a few extra minutes of work to get it off).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[minig0d]

so what do you think you'd use to bond it if the caulk was doing that? I don't think latex caulk would have the same problem an oil based one would?

[The CyberPoet]

Maybe an oil-based caulk wouldn't do that... I just used standard Dow brand silicone bathroom (or was it window?) caulk, the fairly cheap stuff ($2.50 a tube?). I don't have a good answer on that... Not too familiar with all the variations in caulk types.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet