chains

[rideitlikeyoustoleit03]

Who makes the best chains out there?

[KitKat]

I think lots of people have Vortex chains and sprockets. Not sure who the "best" is.

[ZukiFred]

DID and R&K come to mind.

[The CyberPoet]

Best is purely debatable.

Chains that last the longest generally use X-ring and W-ring designs, which are offered by most of the major players. Most Kat users go with the RK+Vortex combo because it's very cost effective (chain plus both sprockets for $120 through bikebandit -- at least through last week when I placed my order).

You'll find that installing an automatic chain luber and a cheaper chain will generally give you a far longer chain life than installing a very expensive chain by itself, because the luber will keep the oil levels on the chain in an ideal state.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[suzukisportrider2004]

how do you install a chain luber? can it be done on a stock chain?

[The CyberPoet]

how do you install a chain luber? can it be done on a stock chain?

A chain luber is a combination of a pump or valve and an oil reservior, plus some tubing, nozzle(s) and for most brands, an electrical connection (to power the pump). It can be installed on any chain-driven motorcycle in general. Normally, you would install the oil container in the rear, under the rear side fairings or under the seat, place the pump forward of that (like behind the battery), and route the lines from the container to the pump, then from the pump to the swing arm and point the nozzles just forward of where the chain meshes with with the rear sprocket. The systems are designed to add a single drop of oil every so often (either based on time, or based on a specific rotation count of the sprockets, depending on model).

Common brands include:
Lubetronic (electrical time/controller driven; I have one I'm thinking about selling - new in box with controller), Pro-Oiler (sprocket-rotation count driven, expensive), and the old ScotOiler (engine-vacuum driven). There are a few others out there, but they do not stand out as particularly good IMHO (either too expensive for what they are, or you have to operate or trigger them manually).

Note that use of a chain oiler doesn't remove the need to clean the chain, just greatly reduces how often you should need to, plus ensures the chain stays properly lubed under all circumstances if working correctly.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[rideitlikeyoustoleit03]

what about E-K chains?

[dragkota]

I have Vortex and it works just fine

[shagg_9]

mine is an E-k X-ring... but it is transit. i will get it the first of next week. i will tell ya how it works out.

[The CyberPoet]

what about E-K chains?

The Enuma Chain Manufacturing Company Limited (EK Chains) is a known player in the market, has some unique tools and solutions (I like the EK Screw-type master link installation process), and claims to have delivered the first O-ring chain to the market (not designed or come up with it, just first on market with it). They were started in the same year that the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor specifically to help feed the Japanese military-industrial market's need for chains, and the majority of their market is still industrial chain manufacturing. Only Kawasaki sometimes specs EK chains as the OEM chain on their bikes; all the other major players go with RK brand chains instead.

The problem is that most EK chains sold on eBay are poorly rated for what they are sold to do, or incorrectly sized. In other words:
Most chain manufacturers will make anywhere from a half-dozen to a dozen & half different types of #530 chains (in EK's case, just for motorcycle uses they have nine types: super-cheap [SR], economy o-ring [SRO], light street [SRX], touring/heavy street [SRX], High-Power street [ZVX], motorcross racing [MX], track racing [RX & RXO], drag racing [DR & DRZ], ATV [RO & RX], low-use [garage doors, gates], etc.), of which only a couple will be applicable to use with a Katana. Usually the best choice for the Kat (or any given bike) are not the ones being sold, because the seller makes more selling you a cheaper chain instead.

In EK's own recommendations, the Kats should use:
530 MVXZ is thier recommended preference (high-power street, recommended because of the weight of the Kat strains chains).
530 SRX is the "value" category (cheaper)
530 SROZ is the "economy" category (cheap chain, I wouldn't use it on a Kat).

Note that EK's own catalog indicates that EK Chains (the company) do not have a lot of experience with the Kats in general because they list the wrong link count for the late model kats (listed at 116 instead of 118), the wrong chain size for the Kat 600 (saying stock is a #520 chain instead of the #530 it is), and other simple errors that shouldn't be listed in a cross-reference by a major chain manufacturer in their publications and can lead even well-intended suppliers to provide you the wrong thing as well. If you are going with an EK chain, specifically on a 98+ Kat, specifically ask for an 118 link #530 530MVXZ or 530SRX chain (which can be found by searching EK's catalog for the fitment for a Yamaha YZF-R7 instead of the Kat) or the same chain in a 120 link to cut down (which is the fitment for a VF750C Magna according to them). Do not simply order the RK "Katana" chains.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[rideitlikeyoustoleit03]

actually its going on a post '98 with a '99 motor in it and it has a 14 tooth frnt and a 45 tooth rear, i should be able to get by with a 120 link chain shouldnt i?

[The CyberPoet]

actually its going on a post '98 with a '99 motor in it and it has a 14 tooth frnt and a 45 tooth rear, i should be able to get by with a 120 link chain shouldnt i?

15-47 is 118 links on the 98+
Subtract one for the front sprocket going down a tooth (117), and two for the rear (115), so any chain at 116 or longer should work. Getting a 120 link and cutting it down to 116-115 should be ideal. Please place the chain on the bike before you cut it to make sure you don't take off too many links!

One question: Why would you run a 14/45?

The stock rear for a 98+ is a 47, and a 14/47 is a more torque-rich combo. A 14/45 combo would give you about 2.6% difference, which isn't usually enough to feel at your butt, plus you are forcing the front sprocket down, which shortens chain life because of the tighter turn it has to make each time it comes by the sprocket... a 15/48 would be a better combination for approximately the same less-than-noticable power difference.

See http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/kata...sprockets.html for more info.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[DooD]

OK, question:

I have a 16/44 setup, with my DID 530VM X-ring chain... (120 link).....

Does 116 link sound like a good place to start? Or is it gonna be a trial-and-error dealio? (errrr....118?) I'm lost.....

[The CyberPoet]

OK, question:

I have a 16/44 setup, with my DID 530VM X-ring chain... (120 link).....

Does 116 link sound like a good place to start? Or is it gonna be a trial-and-error dealio? (errrr....118?) I'm lost.....

16/44? Why? Your performance would virtually identical to the 15/47...

Anyway, for the 98+, same concept as above:
118 link is stock for the 15/47.
+1 on the front brings it up to 119 links. Dropping three teeth at the rear should drop it down to 116. I'd cut at 117 and then check for fitment before cutting off the extra tooth.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[USCGC_Katana]

Cyber Poet,
You are the Sh!@. Keep that great stuff comming for us (Me) want to be's. This is a great thread on chains. Thanks. you are appriciated