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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!


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Old 10-05-2017, 07:13 PM   #11
Kreylyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
Every time I try to install the airbox I remove the filter, stick my hands through to try and get the boots onto the carbs. However even doing this, boot #3, with the weird part number, has been not possible to get on. However, the old RTV on it looks to be original, slightly orange, matching the others - which makes me think it is the correct boot... but I just don't get it if that last number is a 5.

I'll try to put them back on and see if the water did anything - also read a heat gun can help get them on. Maybe I'll try this if no dice.
Just to make sure, but the location tab on the boots were verified to be in the correct location on the air box (2 small dots it goes between)?

BTW... a google search turns up 13885 is not a valid part number with either configuration of 20c00 or 20c01. My bet is it's deformed and the number is a 3.


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Last edited by Kreylyn; 10-05-2017 at 07:24 PM..
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:54 AM   #12
Heeltoeclutch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreylyn View Post
Just to make sure, but the location tab on the boots were verified to be in the correct location on the air box (2 small dots it goes between)?

BTW... a google search turns up 13885 is not a valid part number with either configuration of 20c00 or 20c01. My bet is it's deformed and the number is a 3.

Krey
Thanks Krey - yes, the tabs have been correctly located. Tomorrow I will get some time to work on it; I'll try putting them back on now that they have soaked; if they are still being difficult I may try the heat gun.

I found nothing with 13885 either. I suppose that is comforting then, that at least it is the correct part.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:22 AM   #13
Kreylyn
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Originally Posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
Thanks Krey - yes, the tabs have been correctly located. Tomorrow I will get some time to work on it; I'll try putting them back on now that they have soaked; if they are still being difficult I may try the heat gun.

I found nothing with 13885 either. I suppose that is comforting then, that at least it is the correct part.
If nothing else, there is ebay...

This is stated as #3...

That or a whole different box may be an option.

Krey
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:56 AM   #14
Heeltoeclutch
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If nothing else, there is ebay...

This is stated as #3...

That or a whole different box may be an option.

Krey
Thanks Krey - had a little time to try some things yesterday.

I put the now- soaked boots back on the airbox; I really don't think it changed much. The boots were already flexible. However, before I put them back on I examined the airbox more closely, and began to suspect the actual airbox could be deformed. The holes for the boots to go in looked sort of warped and uneven, the top seemed pushed in more than the bottom:





After putting the boots back on, the edges of the boots don't entirely line up:



Also, the little locating tab of boot #3 was kinda far away from sitting actually between the dots, like the whole orifice was sunken in. I pulled the boots off and tried heating the plastic around orifice #3 with a lighter, pressing it outwards, then quenching it under cool running water. (Can't find my heat gun)

I think this had some effect. The plastic looks slightly less sunken in, #3's locating tab is now sitting fully between the dots and the edges of the boots are maybe a little more even. If I try hard, I can now get the boots over the carb mouths - however the screws to tighten the clamps on #2 and #3 would be inaccessible, hidden under the top rail-that-holds-the-carbs-together:

Sorry for the annoying rotated pic - this is looking from the top right side at #3 and #4:


The only way to secure boots #2 and #3 to the carbs would be to tighten the clamps with the screws pointing downward. I will have a little time to work on it tomorrow; I think I will try to pull the carbs off the bike, and see if I can get the boots to tighten onto the carbs from beneath (impossible while the carbs are on the bike). If I can get this to work, I will go ahead and seal up the boots with gasket-maker, put everything back together and try running it - this way I would be unable to remove the airbox without removing the carbs, but at least it would be working and sealed...?

Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 10-10-2017 at 02:00 PM..
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Old 10-10-2017, 02:33 PM   #15
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just to mix it up a bit and confuse matters even more, have you tried swapping boots 2 and 3 ?
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:20 PM   #16
Heeltoeclutch
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Absolutely. Yes. Thank you.


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just to mix it up a bit and confuse matters even more, have you tried swapping boots 2 and 3 ?
I have not tried this – per your suggestion I was going to try this if my experiment yesterday failed, but, alas, something worked!


Yesterday I tried removing the carbs and fastening the airbox to the carbs off the bike, with the #2 and #3 boot clamp screws facing downwards, since they are inaccessible when pointing up. Happy to report that this was achievable, and I got all the airbox boots to successfully clamp onto the carb mouths with this method:

View from bottom of carbs - boot #2 and #3 screws are accessible down here:


I then put the assembly back on the bike, gave it some gas, and tried running it. The bouncy idle seems to have gone. I tried spraying starter fluid all over the whole assembly – at the airbox boots, at the carb caps, at the engine boots – and it didn’t seem to do a darn thing. I thinnnk I have eliminated any vacuum leaks! With this knowledge, I pulled everything off again and sealed up the boots to the airbox with Permatex high-temp gasket maker. Not the prettiest thing I’ve done – but it should work.



Two items/questions now:
  1. When trying to apply throttle, the bike now stumbles quite a bit when trying to rev up. I presume this may be because killing the vacuum leak has changed the sync. I know I need to re-sync the bike – is it reasonable that being out-of-sync would cause heavy stumbling alone?
  2. Now that I have solved the vacuum leak with #3, (and perhaps #2), I am wondering if the bike could be too rich now. Carbs #1 and #4 have always sealed well to the airbox, and were never leaking. The bike ran pretty happily with the #2 & #3 leak(s) at the current A/F screw settings (3 turns out, Dynojet kit). Should I be watching the plugs, or looking for other signs of richness?
Thanks!

Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 10-12-2017 at 01:22 PM..
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:14 AM   #17
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Id love to help you there bud but im a real novice at all this and my bike runs like a bag of spanners.. tomorrow or later today im going to sync the carbs and tune my mixture with my home made manometer and a colortune..
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