Should I go with Progressive Springs???

[gimmefuel]

Hey guys, I discovered I have a leaky right front fork seal. So it's soon time for some fork work. Should I go ahead & install a set of Progressive Springs while I'm in there anyway? What weight oil should I use? Don't have "a lot" of $$$ to spend but I don't think the springs cost that much. I have never done any fork work but this looks like it's something that I can do. I searched the forum before posting this. I'm sure a lot of you have knowledge on this. '92 Kat 750

[WyredHardware]

race tech makes great springs too. Not much difference in price than the progressive. Some people say they make a better spring too (race tech)

[GregS]

I liked the Progressive brand springs I had on my 04 750. I could only compare them to the stock units though. They got rid of the excessive sag, although I could have done that by adding even more preload spacing to the ridiculously long stock spacer. The initial inch of travel is softer feeling and the remainder is roughly the same or maybe a little stiffer feeling. I'm fairly light, 160 pounds, so that may mean you'll have different experience.

[squiggy]

I have nothing to comment on Progressive springs so I'll comment on what I'm doing to my forks in a couple weeks.

After 63,000+ miles on my still untouched, original oil, forks, it's time for a complete rebuild.

I'm going with Race Tech springs, Gold Valve Emulators and Race Tech's recomended 20W oil, not Race Tech oil, however. I'm also replacing the inner and outer bushings, fork seals and dust cap.

[Tmod]

According to Progressives data their spring is not far from the stock spring, I posted the data here somewhere. I don't know what you weigh but if it is over 190 I think I would recommend the race tech units.

Tmod

[GregS]

You can get a stiffer spring from Progressive but you need to dig thru the spec charts to find it. That's one nice thing about Race Tech as they sell springs based on rider weight. Watch out that you explain to Race Tech what type of rider you are as well as your weight since the spring they recommend in the charts is biased toward hard sport riding as opposed to sport touring.

[gimmefuel]

Thanks guys. I think I am going to go with Race Tech. How difficult is this mod to do anyway? What will I need to hold up the front of the bike while the forks are removed? Will I need a length of PVC pipe to seat the seals? Do you know if Race Tech includes a nice set of instructions for installation and setting the sag & what not? Sorry for the rapid fire questions, just trying to get an idea of whats involved here.

[Steveb]

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=80893

For the big kat, but you'll get the idea.

[CANATUNA]

I'm doing a spring and oil/seal swap on my bike right now too.... loads of fun I tell ya.

[squiggy]

How difficult is this mod to do anyway?

I'll let you know.

What will I need to hold up the front of the bike while the forks are removed?

I'll be using my center stand with weight laying on the rear seat so it doesn't tilt forwards.

Will I need a length of PVC pipe to seat the seals?

PVC would work or like Steveb posted using metal pipe of slightly larger diameter. Use can use the old seal on top of the new one so it does not damage it. Or you can spend the money to get Motion Pro's seal driver.

Do you know if Race Tech includes a nice set of instructions for installation and setting the sag & what not?

Yes, I have them in my hand: "Step 6-Measuring Static Sag" You can alter sag by lengthin or shorten preload spacer.

[gimmefuel]

I'm doing a spring and oil/seal swap on my bike right now too.... loads of fun I tell ya.

Good luck Canatuna. Let me know how it comes out. I will be interested to know. I'm off now to pull my spark plugs and hope the stupid shop fouled them so I can install a new set & it will cure my mid-range/upper range hiccups!!!!

I'll let you know.




I'll be using my center stand with weight laying on the rear seat so it doesn't tilt forwards.

Great idea except that I ditched my center stand right after I got my bike way back in '01!!!

I am seriously going to have to figure something out!!!





PVC would work or like Steveb posted using metal pipe of slightly larger diameter. Use can use the old seal on top of the new one so it does not damage it. Or you can spend the money to get Motion Pro's seal driver.






Yes, I have them in my hand: "Step 6-Measuring Static Sag" You can alter sag by lengthin or shorten preload spacer.

So I could just simply use the old seal???


Are you doing this same mod right now too???

[GSXfs600]

I just did mine last week! I used Suzuki seals as I found them online for around $10.each. I used Mobil1 ATF(comes out to about 15 wt.) The stock springs were ok so I added 1 inch to the spacer(I'm about 240lb right now).

The springs can be done anytime as you just need to remove the caps.

It rides real good for stock! I'll drop some RT springs in it once I'm back to work.


Also, You may need to drill out the underside bolts, a 3/8 drill bit will work.

Dont worry, they drill out in about 45 sec. I bought the crush washers at the Stealership but the bolt I got in SS from Ace.


Goodluck.

Hey guys, I discovered I have a leaky right front fork seal. So it's soon time for some fork work. Should I go ahead & install a set of Progressive Springs while I'm in there anyway? What weight oil should I use? Don't have "a lot" of $$$ to spend but I don't think the springs cost that much. I have never done any fork work but this looks like it's something that I can do. I searched the forum before posting this. I'm sure a lot of you have knowledge on this. '92 Kat 750

[squiggy]

So I could just simply use the old seal?

Buy new ones. I did as Benny and went with OEM. After 63,000+ miles and not a leak, I think they are sufficient. If your not getting a seal driver, use the old seal on top of the new one to protect it from damage that the homemade driver might do.

Are you doing this same mod right now too???

I have all the components to do it except the fork oil. Suzuki says to use 10W so that's what I bought. Race Tech, however, said to use 20W so I need to buy that.

Late this afternoon and tomorrow I am installing the Ohlins rear shock I bought from Cyber quite awhile ago and I'm replacing the complete rear fender.

Once the shock is done, that will force me to do the fork service. If I didn't, I might delay it some more.