Turn Signals Dont Work

[ba82]

I just got my 89 or 90 750 Kat yesterday, it has 18,000 mikes and its my first street bike. I didnt get a manual, and I am a bit lost. I have a few questions, any help is appreciated........

My real question is that my turn signals dont work. The four fuses under the seat were all fine (are there aditional fuses elesewhere that I should check?) When I have my seat off and I move the switch to turn on the signal, I hear a click of some sort, but I can not tell where it is coming from. When I push the button to cancle the turn signal, I hear another click. The signals did work today while my bike was parked at work, but did not work on the way to work, and have not worked since. Any guesses?

What is the correct Idle RPM for the 750 once warmed up? How long does it take for the bike to warm up?

I hear some sort of clicking or tapping sound under idle, especially when cold, Does this have anythign to do with my valves? I know these bikes need valve adjustments and I dont know when it was done last.

I believe I have a small oil leak at my oil cooler in the front of the bike, Is this a common problem for the kat? Is it an easy fix if so?

Last, possibly most importantly, where is a good place to get parts on line?
I would appreciate advice on any where I can get a on-line manual as well.

I need tires, breaks, and a new chain/rear sprocket......Any advice?

Thanks in advance, apprecate any help
[/b]

[bigbike-r]

indicators.... if theyre still clicking when turned on then the little box that makes them blink is working thus it wont be a fuse.... do none of them light up.....my first thought was the bulbs blown, im not sure they would still blink (tha clicking noise you hear) mine dont if i have a bulb blown anyhow???? cant really explain that if the thing is clicking away as it would as if they were working then it would indicate a full circuit so

clicking or tapping when the machine idles.... where is the noise coming from.... under the rocker cover??? ( the one at the top of the head where the spark plugs are)
if so... i wouldnt ride it like that at all..... i wouldnt even fire it up....... if its the valves that are out of line you could bend them or worse knacker the full engine

oil leak. from the cooler...... can you see where its coming from??? if its from a pipe going in or out from the cooler replace the washers and tighten it back up. if theres a hole in the cooler - get a new one....... ive never had the problem, dont think its common!

best place for parts online??? unfortunately im in england so can only direct you to e-bay or here in the forsale section!!

hope this helps ya bud
danny

[ba82]

I agree, the guy who I got the Bike from said it was a bulb also, however they are all good, and like I said, the signals worked while my bike was parked at work.......

I will have to go listen to the clicking, any specific way to tell where the noise is comming from? I may go buy a sound scope because thats the only thing I can think of. Whats the deal with adjusting your valves, is it somthing that you can do on your own?

I will have to look at the Oil Cooler when I get it off because the leak is coming from the back side and its hard to see exacly where from. I do not believe there is a hole in the cooler because the amount of oil leaking is allmost not noticeable.

Any one else know where a good place to get parts on line is?[/quote]

[bigbike-r]

could just be a loose wire somewhere...a dodgy earth maybe.... id start at the bulbs then the wires
should sort the problem

clicking you should get an idea where its coming from just stickin yer head down there and listening where it appears to be coming..... is it the lower, upper back or front.... that should be enough to figure it out as i say if its coming from up top near the valves i woulnt even start it up at all!! do you have a haynes manual??? that will tell you how to sort it..... however be warned setting the cams is not an easy job ...... i need to do a head swap as my header bolts snapped when replacing the downpipes and im dreading putting the cams in and getting it right..... im sure theres a thread i posted on it somewhere ill look later and post it here if i find it!! but yeah you can do anything if you know how..... me personally i try to do all my work myself or if i struggle bribe a mate to help out..... offer someone a few pints that usually works

as for the oil cooler try just tightening the bolts refer to the manual for torque settings could be that it just needs tightening

good luck
danny

[brooder]

https://www.ronayers.com

[The CyberPoet]

Re: Turn Signals Dont Work

I just got my 89 or 90 750 Kat yesterday

The vin plate should tell you definitively which model year it is. On certain parts, it may make a difference when you need replacements -- I know it does on the 600's, but unsure on the 750's.

When I push the button to cancle the turn signal, I hear another click. The signals did work today while my bike was parked at work, but did not work on the way to work, and have not worked since. Any guesses?

Bad bulbs, debris or water in the turn-signal switch itself (the one you push on to turn them on/off), bad ground wire. I'd start with the bulbs, then clean the turn-signal switch, then search out the grounding wires, in that order.

What is the correct Idle RPM for the 750 once warmed up? How long does it take for the bike to warm up?

I believe it's 1150 -1250 RPM for the pre-98 750's, although it may be marginally lower. California models (pollution control systems) always get set another 100-150 RPM higher.

I hear some sort of clicking or tapping sound under idle, especially when cold, Does this have anythign to do with my valves? I know these bikes need valve adjustments and I dont know when it was done last.

On a bike this age, I would automatically suspect the cam chain tension spring, which is known to go bad (get weak) over time. It's a cheap part to replace and located on the rear of the cylinder area below the carbs and above the tranny & alternator in the dead-center of the block.
Pre-98 Tensioner Springs (the shorter one is bad):

I believe I have a small oil leak at my oil cooler in the front of the bike, Is this a common problem for the kat? Is it an easy fix if so?

A leak in the oil cooler or lines is uncommon and the part would need to be replaced. A leak at the oil filter because it isn't spun down properly is quite common -- it's turn until the seal barely grazes the block, then two full rotations.
If you have a leak at the oil cooler or lines (and it's not simply from the O-ring at the mating portion where the lines meet the cooler), you need to be especially careful about riding -- a few of our riders have had their plastics (fender, fairings) melted and distorted by small streams of very hot oil coming out under pressure. Normally failure in either is directly a result of damages from a wreck or debris hitting at high speeds.

Last, possibly most importantly, where is a good place to get parts on line?

I carry all the maintenance supplies you need cheaper than you're likely to find them elsewhere (esp. after shipping from the other guys) -- oil filters & filter wrenches, air filters, valve tappet adjustment tools, spark plugs, all the common things.
For non-standard parts (i.e. - things that don't get replaced regularly), you'll want to check with the place Brooder pointed you at -- RonAyers.com.

I would appreciate advice on any where I can get a on-line manual as well.

The preferred manual is the Suzuki Factory manual (if you can get the suzuki part number for it, you can order it from RonAyers.com at a low price). The aftermarket manuals are cheaper and have better pics, but aren't as thorough in testing procedures, troubleshooting and exact specifications on every torque value (there are misprints).

I need tires, breaks, and a new chain/rear sprocket......Any advice?

Tires: Metzeler Z6 in a 120/70ZR17 front and 150/70ZR17 rear from AmericanMotoTire.com or DennisKirk.com or RonAyers.com (shop for best price after shipping).

Chain & Sprockets: Vortex+RK Chain-sprocket combo kit from BikeBandit.com (both sprockets in steel, plus the right chain, for about $140 last time I priced it, as a complete kit). Comes with a 20k mile warrantee as well.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[ba82]

Thanks

Wow, thanks for taking the time to give me such a complete answer, I appreciate it and will take your advice

[Black_peter]

I few points:
**Don't forget the plate on the frame will tell you the manufacter date. Not the model year.
EX. 7/94 for my 1995...

** Cyber is right about the o ring. Any bit of oil that drips out there will make quite a mess. The o ring should be at your dealer should a member here had his bike in the shop for 2 weeks waiting on that part.
the dealer claimed it wasn't a common part. It fits 85~ Suzukis!!! You could also take one to a hardware store and find a match.

**Ron Ayers also has a good price on the EBC HH pads also a good price on the caliper rebuild parts.
A bike your age should have it's brakes rebuilt:
*Rebuilt master cylinder.
*New brake lines. Stainless steel lines are cheaper and better than stock.
*Rebuild calipers.
*NEW FLUID! (Castrol LMA)
Remember it's not how fast you can go but how fast you can stop that is most important!

**Clean your bike really well! This will give you a close up view of the bike and after it is spotless you will clearly see where the leaks etc are..

**Clean all electrical contacts (fine sandpaper) and coat with electrical grease. (to keep them clean)
Carefully open the turn signal housing and clean the switch plate and contacts. Coat with electrical grease.

**The Suzuki manual IMO is worth the price. It's really not that much more than the aftermarket one.
(Not that I own it )

[ba82]

Thanks for the info, the bike is apparently a 1990.

I have a question about the turn signal swithch housing, I was going to open it up, but on the middle screw there was a plate holding down a spring, I did not know what the spring was holding so I did not go any further.

I got 10/40 syn blend oil at my local shop figgured it was better than regular oil, but the sales person claimed it was a waste of money (an extra $7.00 for 4qts) but it seemed worth it to me. They said I would need just over 3 qts. Is this correct?

Also, I ended up getting the only tires they stocked in my size, they are battle ax's i think..... 100 for the front and 110 for the rear with free mounting. Seemed like a good deal for what the parts guy said was a decent tire. Did I do ok? I can still change to somthing elese before I have time to go get them mounted.

[The CyberPoet]

I have a question about the turn signal swithch housing, I was going to open it up, but on the middle screw there was a plate holding down a spring, I did not know what the spring was holding so I did not go any further.

Don't let fear intimidate you... you control the spring!

Open the main control pod housing, spray your heart out with electronic cleaner, then if you see any carbon or rust, have at it with some emory cloth (very fine grit), then spray with more cleaner. Check the solder on the wires (for good solder joints) and the ends of the wires (for rust). Once satisfied, pack up everything with dielectric grease (vasoline in a pinch) and reassemble the control pod.

I got 10/40 syn blend oil at my local shop figgured it was better than regular oil, but the sales person claimed it was a waste of money (an extra $7.00 for 4qts) but it seemed worth it to me. They said I would need just over 3 qts. Is this correct?

Quantity: depends on how long you let it drain and whether you drain the cooler. Common values are 3.6 (fast change) to 4.3 liters (drain left open for a couple hours or overnight).

Sales person is showing why he's working retail. Generally look for JASO-MA rated oils and you won't go wrong.

Also, I ended up getting the only tires they stocked in my size, they are battle ax's i think..... 100 for the front and 110 for the rear with free mounting. Seemed like a good deal for what the parts guy said was a decent tire. Did I do ok? I can still change to somthing elese before I have time to go get them mounted.

The battle axes are OK, but not great. A 5+ year old tire design and hard rubber makes them reasonably long-lifed, but not nearly as grippy as modern sports-touring tires with longer lifespans. The specific set I recommended above is generally the best you'll find for your bike for anything shy of constantly being knee-down canyon carving. Search the threads for how many opinions agree with me if you feel unsure about that statement.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[ba82]

I may be off base here, but If when I use the signal switch, and hear some sort of clicking in the middle of the bike near the flasher and fuses, dose that not mean that the switch is working? Does the flasher ever give problems?

The battle axes are OK, but not great. A 5+ year old tire design and hard rubber makes them reasonably long-lifed, but not nearly as grippy as modern sports-touring tires with longer lifespans. The specific set I recommended above is generally the best you'll find for your bike for anything shy of constantly being knee-down canyon carving. Search the threads for how many opinions agree with me if you feel unsure about that statement.

Of course I trust your opion, if it comes from you, it migh as well be comming from god himself when it comes to these bikes.

Back a few posts ago you posted me advice on the cam chain tentioner spring. Is this an internal motor part? I assume it is, but for some reason when I read your post, I get the feeling its an easy fix...am I wrong?

[The CyberPoet]

I may be off base here, but If when I use the signal switch, and hear some sort of clicking in the middle of the bike near the flasher and fuses, dose that not mean that the switch is working? Does the flasher ever give problems?

That means the flasher is getting power, and it would mean that the problem lies past the flasher (i.e. - in the wires going to or returning from the bulbs, or in the bulbs themselves).

Back a few posts ago you posted me advice on the cam chain tentioner spring. Is this an internal motor part? I assume it is, but for some reason when I read your post, I get the feeling its an easy fix...am I wrong?

It's a bit of a PIA to get to, but it's not a difficult operation once you have the other stuff out of the way (i.e. - fairings, gas tank, carbs). Ask MD86 about what's involved on a pre-98 (i.e. - whether the cam chain tensioner guides need to be fiddled with or not) -- I'm pretty sure he changed his in the past year. I believe as long as the valve covers don't come off, you can just change out the spring in the assembly, which is a direct bolt-on to the rear of the engine.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Same as what's involved in getting to it on a 98+ . Just need to gain access to the back of the engine .

[Black_peter]

Same as what's involved in getting to it on a 98+ . Just need to gain access to the back of the engine .

Isn't the washer under the screw a oil seal?
Did you have to replace yours?

I assume you removed:
Fairings.
Tank.
Carbs.
Thats it?

[KeithRoxx]

another thing often overlooked for the clicking sound can be an exhaust leak.
these can fool your ear and really sound more mechanical than you think.
just a thought.
I am in tustin and starting to tear my bike down today (91 750) to put lots of new parts on.
mine has 15000 miles on it and I'm changing out some of the same things you mentioned, plus some mods.
pm me if you want to come by.