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  • Tank Rust

    So I'm about to repair my tank. It started leaking at the bottom. It may be a result of poor winterizing from the last owner resulting in some rust. I'm going to be using quick steel to repair the holes.

    What do you guys recommend I do as far as cleaning off the rust? I'm looking for a relatively affordable DIY method.

    Help is always appreciated!

  • #2
    You have to use a tank sealer to repair the inside first. If not your repair will be eaten through in days by the gasoline. I used Kreem but there are better.
    Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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    • #3
      i used kreem on mine too worked great just follow instructions exactly and dont let the inside of the tank dry ever during the process

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      • #4
        Why can't the tank ever be dry?

        So let me get this straight. I will be using Kreem (or maybe Red-Kote from other reviews) to get the inside fixed and then afterwards fix it with quick steel? Do you guys have a link to a good article that explains the process and whys of the process?

        Thanks.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by xprment626 View Post
          Why can't the tank ever be dry?

          So let me get this straight. I will be using Kreem (or maybe Red-Kote from other reviews) to get the inside fixed and then afterwards fix it with quick steel? Do you guys have a link to a good article that explains the process and whys of the process?

          Thanks.
          after step 1 of kreem if the tank dries it "flash rusts"

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          • #6
            Originally posted by xprment626 View Post
            Why can't the tank ever be dry?

            So let me get this straight. I will be using Kreem (or maybe Red-Kote from other reviews) to get the inside fixed and then afterwards fix it with quick steel? Do you guys have a link to a good article that explains the process and whys of the process?

            Thanks.
            You won't need the quick steel after the Kreem treatment. The Kreem will seal the tank.
            Chris

            Originally posted by jetmerritt
            Save up for great gear and dress for the fall before you ride. If you can't afford good quality gear, don't ride. It's like saying you can't afford seat belts for your car. There are just no laws to make gear mandatory.

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            • #7
              Kream will break down, and cause carb problems (2-3 years generally). I would suggest pour-15 if you want to coat it. Kream will not stop rust from forming between it and the tank, pour-15 binds to the steel and will not form a rust layer between.

              Alternatively, cleaning out the rust, removing all water instantly with 1 cup acetone sloshed allover, and then coating it a mix of (1/2 cup gas, 1/2 cup motor oil) sloshed all over will give you the same protection as kream without the long term inevitable problems caused by Kream to your carbs. It is also easily redone if needed.

              I have a katana gas tank with HUGE chuncks of Kream coat inside it now floating free because of the rust growing between. Shake it around and it sounds like someone dumped a shovel full of dirt in it.

              Krey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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              • #8
                I just got a POR-15 kit for motorcycle tanks and can't wait to fix my tank. After reading the many many posts on gas tank rust I decided to go with it ( I believe it's CP endorsed, don't quote me though). It was about $48 bucks w/shipping direct from the company. I plan on doing it sometime this upcoming week/nextweek. I'll post my comments about the process/quality once I do it (though it does take ~3 days to cure before use).

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                • #9
                  I have used Kreem twice with no problems. I think like most things you have to follow the directions as they are written and prep is the most important. Think of the kreem as a plastic bag that sits inside your tank, essentially just a thin liner. I haven't used por-15 but heard good reviews. I only used Kreem because it was available locally. I haven't had it breakdown, I bet that it didn't set up before the person put gas in it.
                  Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                  • #10
                    POR 15

                    If you want to make the tank bullet proof strip the paint off the bottom and paint it with POR15 on the outside lay down some cloth over the bottom where the holes were and POR15 over the clotch. It will built up the tank and make it SUPER strong.

                    The POR15 Gas tank restor system will last MUCH MUCH longer then Kream and its easier to use and get a professional job.

                    I used Kreeam products for about 15 years... befor I heard of POR15
                    I used to use standard POR15 for fuel tanks but the silver gas tank repair kit is by far the BEST system on the market for restoring ANY fuel tank.
                    We just did my fathers 1956 dodge fuel tank... better then new
                    98 GSX750F
                    95 Honda VT600 vlx
                    08 Tsu SX200

                    HardlyDangerous Motosports

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                    • #11
                      i just wonder y doesnt any one just drain the tank and solder the holes up

                      they cant be that big

                      plus if there is a big rust spot youget a piece of steel tahs 1 millimiter thick that covers the rust spot and you solder around


                      its really not that hard and it works for a long time and doesnt disolve

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                      • #12
                        As a rule I like to keep fire away from gas tanks...............BOOOOOMMMM
                        Must read for carb tuners......http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_...m_engines.html

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by kevin2502000 View Post
                          As a rule I like to keep fire away from gas tanks...............BOOOOOMMMM
                          Clean the tank, and then fill with water. Removes all fumes for welding/soldering.

                          Krey
                          93 750 Kat



                          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I used the por15 kit on my tank today and i'd thought i'd share some tips learned from my mistakes. hopefully your experience will have fewer four-letter words than mine!

                            1. get some plastic sheeting to cover up the tank, leaving only the 3 openings exposed.

                            2. make sure you experiment with different tapes and taping patterns (more is better) and test with water before you use the chemicals. it's not fun having tape soak and burst open while sloshing marine clean or metal ready around in the tank.

                            3. eventually i used a power washer to blast out the rest of the rust because i was getting impatient and i had wasted too much metal-ready. use this an additional step after metal-ready, if needed.

                            4. be ready to dry quickly the tank after rinsing out the metal-ready - flash rust forms in a matter of minutes, so have the hair dryer/heat gun plugged in and ready to go. even though the instructions say flash rust is no biggie, it is a little annoying seeing that evil stuff form on the beautiful shiny steel after all that hard work.

                            i decided not to go the saran-wrap+foil+vaseline route with the petcock. I just taped up the petcock opening and covered the 2 bolts with vaseline. after adding por-15 i removed and cleaned the bolts. then i stuffed some paper towels in the threads to help keep them clean. you may want to do this a couple times to make sure nothing gets in the threads until the por15 hardens a bit.
                            Last edited by rolofung; 04-11-2010, 01:14 AM.
                            1993 GSX750F

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                            • #15
                              I'm wondering if you can just put teflon tape on the threads of the bolts when you put them in to keep the tank sealed. When the por15 starts to set you can remove the bolts

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