Any Compatible Rear Rotors?

[boardstiff]

Does anyone know if there are any non-1100F rear rotors that will work for a stock big Kat? I saw a near new one that was represented as being off a “92” 1100F but it only measured .196” thick. The manual states .264” as new and .240” as the acceptable bottom end wear limit. I wasn’t on my bike for a visual comparison between the two so I passed on it. All the part numbers I have researched makes it appear that the 1100F’s rear rotor is unique to that model. It seems as though there should be something out there that would bolt up and work even if it is thinner. I would think the outside caliper would handle an additional six hundredths of travel or possibly be shimmed. The OEM is one thick rotor, expensive, and hard to find.

(The clutch is fixed!)

[Mojoe]

I have 3 or 4 rear rotors kicking around in nice shape.

[boardstiff]

I have 3 or 4 rear rotors kicking around in nice shape.

How much would you want for one Mojoe? I am in Vancouver, Washington. Are they 1100F OEM or “compatible” rotors from another bike (still don't know if there is such a thing)? The inference from your reply is that they are OEM. Are they grooved or have any lip?

[BIGKAT1100]

.......... (The clutch is fixed!)

Not meaning to hijack your thread but what turned out to be wrong with your clutch ?

[boardstiff]

Not meaning to hijack your thread but what turned out to be wrong with your clutch ?

Initially, I somehow introduced air into the line while trying to back bleed the clutch. After an extended period without any apparent success trying to bleed the air, I took the clutch apart. I found a brand new clutch without any wear showing anywhere (everything looked brand new). After removing the pressure disk, the rear wheel was still locked when in gear. Once about half the plates were removed it unlocked. I found that the rounded edge of the steel and the friction disks were opposing each other on some disks and an abundance of loose adhesive on the friction disks. I surmise that with the pumping during the all bleeding I had done, a few plates bound with the pounding of the pressure disk since their square edges were opposing and there was potentially some of the loose gunk loose. Even though the pressure disk was releasing there was too much bind on at least some disks. I put it back together after cleaning the disks to bare metal (which took forever), and everything oriented the same way (round edge out), and it works fine. No more grunch going into 1st from neutral at a light, and no more lurch with RPM and the clutch disengaged in gear. Other than the outrageous investment of time, the frustration with my apparent inability to bleed properly, and 2 qts of fluid, it was a simple fix!

[Paolo]

Initially, I somehow introduced air into the line while trying to back bleed the clutch. After an extended period without any apparent success trying to bleed the air, I took the clutch apart. I found a brand new clutch without any wear showing anywhere (everything looked brand new). After removing the pressure disk, the rear wheel was still locked when in gear. Once about half the plates were removed it unlocked. I found that the rounded edge of the steel and the friction disks were opposing each other on some disks and an abundance of loose adhesive on the friction disks. I surmise that with the pumping during the all bleeding I had done, a few plates bound with the pounding of the pressure disk since their square edges were opposing and there was potentially some of the loose gunk loose. Even though the pressure disk was releasing there was too much bind on at least some disks. I put it back together after cleaning the disks to bare metal (which took forever), and everything oriented the same way (round edge out), and it works fine. No more grunch going into 1st from neutral at a light, and no more lurch with RPM and the clutch disengaged in gear. Other than the outrageous investment of time, the frustration with my apparent inability to bleed properly, and 2 qts of fluid, it was a simple fix!

Congratulations!!!
These proves again that these big motors are hardly faulting....
if you take a minimum care of them...