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1990 Katana 600 rough idle and bog around 3k

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  • #31
    A list of what I did

    new solid core sparkplug wires ( ebay)
    new o ring's carb boot to engine (Suzuki)
    factory pro jet kit(factory pro)
    new emulsion tubes (carb)(Suzuki)
    cleaned carbs twice over,blow out with compressed air
    stock airbox,stock filter & sealed all the boots

    not real cheap to do, But I have been riding all summer trouble free.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Ashlander View Post
      I was thinking about spraying the boots to see if it revs, just havent gotten around to it yet. Sprayed down the carb bodies, but i may just not have got them good enough. Ill soak them next time.

      If the airbox boot leaks do i need to find a whole new airbox, or are they individually replaceable?
      If the airbox boots leak you can replace just the boots..http:// http://www.suzukipartshouse....aner-model-j-k
      Part #13822-27a00 $11.04 each

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      • #33
        the airbox side boots can get a ring of black oil resistant rtv as an easy an cheap fix. I have some on mine just for shits an giggles. Its not permanent but works. An yes they are individual pieces.
        More than likely its the boots on the motor side that need attention. The o-rings flatten out an allow air to suck in, the boots as well need to be thoroughly inspected for cracks an such for the same purpose.
        94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

        My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

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        • #34
          From what I've been able to see, the engine side boots looked pretty good. I was going to take them off when i removed the carbs the first time but my screwdrivers just started stripping the screws, so i just left them on. I'll have to get a hammer and pound the screwdriver into the screw a bit so it can grab better.

          Whenever i find the time to at least. First day back at school today, looks like im going to be doing ALOT of reading and writing till December. May end up having to drop a class just to keep up with the rest.

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          • #35
            I would also replace the oem clamps as they are junk anyways and get u some band clamps that fit it u can get them much tighter and dont have to worrie about them sliping

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            • #36
              heres how I did mine..

              A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
              mechanical & cosmetic modifications to your Katana.
              94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

              My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by crazycraven420 View Post
                Thats a good writeup. I've got a couple things to refer to now when i get around to working on it again. Why did you plug the drain on the bottom of the airbox?

                Nice bike btw, im digging the mesh in the side. Thats a cool idea.

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                • #38
                  You need to plug the drain on the bottom of the air box to seal it off from the outside air. It's basically a massive vacuum leak on the air box side, since air will take the path of least resistance and that is through the plug and not the filter.
                  1995 Suzuki Katana 600F
                  Full D&D Exhaust

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                  • #39
                    precisely ↑↑ it should have a section of hose with a plug to periodically drain gunk from the airbox but I didn't have the hose at the time
                    94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

                    My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by crazycraven420 View Post
                      precisely ↑↑ it should have a section of hose with a plug to periodically drain gunk from the airbox but I didn't have the hose at the time
                      Ah, mine doesn't have the hose either. I thought it was a little odd when I noticed it. Just assumed it must have some purpose or else it wouldn't be there.

                      Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

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                      • #41
                        Alright so a little update. I took the carbs back off, and made sure all the jets and passages were cleaned out, they were all good. The little black rubber plugs that go over the (idle ?) jet, were shrunken down, and most would fall out if you even nudged the carbs. So i replaced those. Set the float heights, and got the bike back together. Then I realized I was missing the vacuum line that goes to carb 4, so I went and replaced that as well.

                        It ran a little better but was still very off. I had bench-synced the carbs the first time around, but i dont have a vacuum gauge so I never adjusted them on the bike. But I did them by ear today, and got them good enough for it to at least be drivable.

                        I tried doing the trick with a hose and a little bit of water and connecting carbs 1 & 2 and 3 & 4, but I didnt have much luck. Will just a standard vacuum gauge from an auto parts store work? Do i just check each one individually and get them all to the same reading?

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                        • #42
                          look on youtube for homemade manometer.

                          the point isnt to get them to a certain reading, its to balance the draw an flow of air/fuel to each cylinder since each cylinder can have slight variations. Once they are even then you readjust your idle an ride
                          94 GSX600F, V&H 4-1 Supersport exhaust

                          My daily driver build thread- http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=129561

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