Is 5000rpm to high when using choke on warm up???

[SLOMAG]

Once again, I read about 1.5 hrs and couldn't find what I was looking for.

As I remember, it idled and ran "semi" ok when i first got it. It seemed gutless though.

I changed oil and fuel filter, checked 1 plug which looked ok but the wire fell apart so I re-screwed it and tightened the throttle cable nut where it attaches to carb bracket (didn't mess with cable length). Put it back together and it wouldn't fire??????

Turns out the plug wires were pretty bad near the boots and 3 plugs barely sparked, so I clipped the wires and screwed the boots to fresh wire tips. My bro and I got new plugs and new gas (who knows how old gas was) and then it started but with a sick I mean sick amount of smoke (not smoking now). Could it be the the cylinders were crapped up with something? But it runs now.

Now a couple things:

1. When I pull choke all the way out on cold start it revs around 5000+ rpm. I push it back in a little and if not careful it stalls. Then I repeat over and over out then in then out before it stalls until slightly warm. Then it idles ok.

2. After warmed up I tweak throttle and revs stay around 100-150 rpm higher for about 10sec then drops to good level. (pretty sure cable not stickking)

3. Revs drop slightly (100-200rpm) when I lay bike on kick stand (tilt) and goes back to normal when I stand the bike bake up.

4. "Once in a while" at stops it decides it doesn't want to idle right and jumps up and down like =/- 400 or so (ie. 1200rpm -> 800 -> 1200 -> 1600)

After I ride I smell like gas and my gas gage gets lower pretty quick. I think it may be burning rich and/or still bad spark.

But what's up with my choke? Is it too high? If so, where should it be? How do I adjust it? The manul doesn't tell me how to adjust the choke.

Please understand the entire thread and that I DID NOT touch the carbs in any way and PLEASE HELP.

P.S. Sorry for the long winded explanation.

P.P.S. I've run it hard and it now it seems to run better. But it is really jerky at low speed. Is that normal

[HonorKat]

You will foul your plugs in a heartbeat with Choke like that.

I know, I did it at 3K RPM. I would set the choke, and start it up, let it idle, and after 30 seconds or so, back the choke out slowly. When I pulled my plugs last week, they were completely fouled out.

What I do, to avoid fouling the plugs is choke it enough to get it started, and as SOON as it will run with me manually throttling it, I manually throttle it.

The 89-97 Kats are supposed to idle at 1200~1400 RPM, from what my manual says. 5 Grand is WAY too much In My opinion.

[SLOMAG]

I think you may have misunderstood my problem. I don't run the bike with the choke. It runs at what I think is 90% when warm.

The problem is when my choke is pulled all the way out on cold start, it runs at 5000rpm. When I try to run it half way out it starts and slowly dies. If I try to start it with no choke... no go. When it's warm I have no problem starting it.

I never let it warm up more than 30sec to 1 min at 5000rpm but still fear it will hurt the bike. I never ride with the choke on.

My manual states the idle should be +/- 1100rpm but at that level its kind rough so I try for 1400 - 1500rpm and it's decent.

Thanks for your help but can you tell me what you think now that I have clarified a little more?

My main question is why is my choke so high and how do I fix it? My manual says nothing about adjusting the choke.

Thanks

[KatanaJim]

my choke RPM is about 4k...
I run it for about 30 seconds then shut it off.
If your bike wont idle, you may have a plugged idle circuit or dirty fuel filter.

[SLOMAG]

If your bike wont idle, you may have a plugged idle circuit or dirty fuel filter.

Filter is new, carbs were supposedly cleaned. By circuit, do you mean electrical, or fuel?????

[md86]

He means carb circuit . Little holes inthem things . And he may be onto something .....
How old's the bike ? I'm thinking you may need some new o-rings in there , too . Profile says '88 . Yeah , could be time to just get some new o-rings .....

[SLOMAG]

He means carb circuit . Little holes inthem things . And he may be onto something .....
How old's the bike ? I'm thinking you may need some new o-rings in there , too . Profile says '88 . Yeah , could be time to just get some new o-rings .....

Yup she's and 88.

Ok, I haven't run carb cleaner through it yet. Should I run it in the gas and also the spray in the air intake? Will that help?

Also how do I adjust the choke? I know how to do the idle and air/fuel but not the choke.

[KatanaJim]

He means carb circuit . Little holes inthem things . And he may be onto something .....
How old's the bike ? I'm thinking you may need some new o-rings in there , too . Profile says '88 . Yeah , could be time to just get some new o-rings .....

Yup she's and 88.

Ok, I haven't run carb cleaner through it yet. Should I run it in the gas and also the spray in the air intake? Will that help?

Also how do I adjust the choke? I know how to do the idle and air/fuel but not idle.

You can try techron in the tank first, You may get lucky. Most likely, you will need to pull the carbs and clean them. Read the "Carbs 101" sticky, it should set you straight.

There is no shortcut with the carbs, you cant just "spray some cleaner into the intake"

md86 is a wise man, if he says check the orings in the carbs, take it to the bank.

Dont be afraid to do it yourself. There are many cool people on here who will help you through anything you dont feel comfrtable with.

[Court93kat]

To answer the question you keep asking... there is no "adjustment" of the choke. The only way to lower the rpms while the choke is on is to (once started) slowly push the choke off and watch the rpms until they are around 2500. That is the target rpms for warmup. My 93 600 will idle at almost 4000 at full choke if I allowed it to. I always start mine at full choke, and once started I slowly push the choke off to lower the rpms to the 2500 range while I put my gloves on. Once they are on I take the choke completely off and it's time to go.

I agree with KatanaJim on one thing though. If MD tells you something about the carbs...... run with it.

[md86]

Damn guys, feelin' the love here tonight . But I ALWAYS seem to say the same thing ! It's either "clean the carbs" , or "replace the o-rings" . But really , a bike that old , I'd BET on it needing some new o-rings anyway .... There's a sticky somewhere from Special K about the cost of each o-ring and what's needed . I THINK he left out the pilot screw o-rings , though .

[SLOMAG]

You can try techron in the tank first, You may get lucky. Most likely, you will need to pull the carbs and clean them. Read the "Carbs 101" sticky, it should set you straight.

I ran some Wynn carb cleaner in the gas (spilt a bit and that clap dulled my paint). We'll see if that improves a bit after next tank. Thanks

To answer the question you keep asking... there is no "adjustment" of the choke.

Yup, I finally found where the manual says not choke adjustment. Could it be the float level? When I come to a stop quickly the idle drops a bit then goes normal. This doesn't happen if I stop slowly. Thanks.

[The CyberPoet]

One other bit of added advice: drain the float bowls. I'm guessing you are going to find water or sludge in the bottom of them. Why? Because of the idle change when you set the bike on the side-stand.

MD knows whereof he speaks -- when it comes to carbs, listen to him!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[SLOMAG]

drain the float bowls. I'm guessing you are going to find water or sludge in the bottom of them. Why? Because of the idle change when you set the bike on the side-stand.

Thanks CyberPoet. You guys are a big help. What about float levels? Should I check those?

Canadian Tire offers racing wires for $20 each which would be $80+tx.

Does anyone on here know what kind of wires i could use to replace mine that wouldn't cost taht much. Any Canadian rider know of a place in Toronto, Hamilton?

Thanks agian Guys.

[The CyberPoet]

As long as you have the carbs out and the bowls open, it wouldn't hurt to check the float levels, and more importantly, that the floats are swinging freely.

Skip the racing wires. Suzuki's coils are bonded to the spark plug wires (which make them a PIA to swap without swapping coils), but NGK does offer a spark plug wire splice and you can then use standard 7mm(?) or whatever size wire the existing plug wires are from about an inch past the coils all the way to the spark plugs.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[SLOMAG]

Skip the racing wires. Suzuki's coils are bonded to the spark plug wires (which make them a PIA to swap without swapping coils)

Damn!!!!!!!!!!! That Sucks!