1st gear take off stalling and stopping

[DaneG320U545]

Originally Posted by Psycho1

The clutch lever adjustment would be done at the cable. If the bike stalls with the clutch lever pulled all the way in then the cable might be stretched, in which case you would turn the nut where the cable housing meets the clutch lever housing counter clockwise to take some slack out of the cable. You should have a tiny bit of play at the end of the lever (1/8-1/4"), or you could just slip the edge of a nickel between the lever and the lever mounting bracket if the slack is just right.

Thanks for the info! Will be taking a look at it later on today. It releases towards the end (when you almost fully release the lever), not sure if all bikes\kats are like that or not. But just wanted the lever to be a little closer to the handle bar so I don't have to fully stretch my hand just to reach the clutch lever

[scottynoface]

Why has no one banned this bot yet?

[DonZ]

Originally Posted by Slofuze

+1


You'll have to find the "sweet spot" where the clutch actually engages as you release the lever. Try starting your bike, put it in gear, (no throttle) and gently ease up on the clutch lever until you feel it starting to engage then pull it back in. Do that a few times. That'll be your "sweet spot" and it'll give you an idea of where and when you should be rolling on the trottle. Eventually it'll become second nature and you won't have to think about it as you do both actions in one smooth, co-ordinated move.
As for downshifting into 1st.....I wouldn't do that if I were you. Wait until you're basically stopped.

I had a similar problem my riding buddy told me the same thing about finding the sweet spot worked wonders as for the not downshifting to first why is that not recommended?

[latenight]

just thinking... are you sure you are shifting into 1st gear (down from neutral) and not straight into 2nd? that could make it stall easier...
1-N-2-3-4-5-6

[Slofuze]

Originally Posted by DonZ

I had a similar problem my riding buddy told me the same thing about finding the sweet spot worked wonders as for the not downshifting to first why is that not recommended?

Perhaps it's my personal style (and I don't want to threadjack), but there are times I do and times I don't. If my rpms are up and I'm on a curve heading to a stop sign....I'll engine brake into 1st and let that carry me to the sign/or car stopped there. If I'm simply riding in town traffic, I'm of the opinion (and I could be doing it wrong for the last 30 years but I've never had tranny issues with any of the bikes I've owned) it's just easier to engine brake/front brake to a stop, and just before I'm completely stopped I'll throw it into 1st. The next time you hear a "clunck" dumping it into 1st, you'll see what I mean.

[DonZ]

Originally Posted by Slofuze

Perhaps it's my personal style (and I don't want to threadjack), but there are times I do and times I don't. If my rpms are up and I'm on a curve heading to a stop sign....I'll engine brake into 1st and let that carry me to the sign/or car stopped there. If I'm simply riding in town traffic, I'm of the opinion (and I could be doing it wrong for the last 30 years but I've never had tranny issues with any of the bikes I've owned) it's just easier to engine brake/front brake to a stop, and just before I'm completely stopped I'll throw it into 1st. The next time you hear a "clunck" dumping it into 1st, you'll see what I mean.

i just heard it coming home gezz

[Slofuze]

Originally Posted by DonZ

i just heard it coming home gezz

Just my thoughts....and like I said..... it might just be a personal thing.

[JaxKat]

My 2006 Kat 750 does this when first starting out cold. Sometimes I have to use the choke for a few miles or it stalls out if I don't use it while beginning my ride. Gets to 3 grand or so and just cuts out with out the choke. Could just need more time heating up. After this begining choke stage, I dechoke and it rides as normal again.