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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:39 PM   #21
Rootzee
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NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rootzee View Post
NO warranty on the battery. New one is on order. I'm thinking I'm gonna hook up the brand new battery I bought for my Jeep. I'll finish up the rest of my diagnostics, and go from there. Thanks to all who helped!
No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:28 PM   #23
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If you're going to use the battery for your jeep do it with the battery out of the jeep out atleast with the jeep off, and only do it like 1-2 times just to check the spark and maybe to see if she'll start
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:24 AM   #24
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No, don't do that as you will either be using jumper cables or who knows what to connect it. Wait for the proper battery.
It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:10 AM   #25
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.

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Originally Posted by Rootzee View Post
It's just to test to see if there is spark, and further diag where I need power. I have fashioned a few sets of battery cables, of various sizes, when I was a mechanic, to use for this purpose. I have an old set from an old Toyota tercel that is slightly larger( and I mean only slightly) that the Kats. My goal isn't to start the bike with this battery, just to assist with diagnostics.

Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012 at 09:10 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:25 AM   #26
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It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:19 AM   #27
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It still amazes me that people think the physical size of a 12 volt battery makes even the slightest difference to an engine.
It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.

Last edited by 05RedKat600; 03-28-2012 at 10:41 AM..
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
It's not the physical size, it's the amperage it packs. There is much more amperage available in a car battery than a motorcycle battery. This is what leads to cooked wires, regulators, charging systems, and starters. Especially when you add in wires to connect it to the system. But hey, what do I know? It's not like I work with DC voltage for a living or anything.

Also, by adding wire to the battery leads (lengthening them), you are introducing more voltage loss over the small wires. The system will pull more amperage as a result, and you run the risk of cooking wires. Due to this, and lower voltage, the coil test will probably not be accurate. This is well documented here in posts where people have bad batteries and have tried the very same thing with crappy results. Seriously, just wait for the new MC battery. Do it right.
V = IR

Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATOMonkey View Post
V = IR

Now, tell me how increasing R leads to higher I with a constant V.

Any burned up anything is the result of something failing to ground (or a reduction in Resistance or Impedance), which is what was draining the battery. This only made it look like a bad battery, because no one took the time to see if that was actually the problem.

So yes, in that case, I would not recommend hooking up any kind of battery, as 300 CCA will cause just as much of a fire as 750 CCA.

Why? Resistance goes to basically zero, I goes up, and VI = P. Too much P and you get fire.

It is hard to argue with George Ohm, but I have also ran into Mr. Murphy and his law as well. I=v/r always works on paper. I have found trusting in people with real accredited experience. Usually works in the garage
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #30
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Still nothing as of yet to update on...but I am chipping away when I can. Works been extremely busy!
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