Anybody happen to have the intake boot bolt size on hand? I would take them out to see but I have replacement boot o-rings on the way to fix a leak and I want to keep riding while I wait for them... thanks!
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Originally posted by arsenic View PostI know I ordered a purty colored set at one time (I know that doesn't matter, NOT THE POINT.) I wanna say they are M6x1.00-16mmOriginally posted by rolofung View PostAlright thanks, I will drop by Fastenal tomorrow. Do I have to be careful about stainless vs regular steel going into the aluminum engine head? Or will a bit of anti-seize take care of the issue...?
That's the size I just picked up... Stainless Hex Socket Caps... work great, look good. Same for intake boots and the oil lines too. Get 12 of them...
A small bit of anti-sieze will work fine for the stainless - aluminum issue. Just having hex sockets instead of JIS is 1k times better.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by rolofung View PostGreat, sounds good. Krey, did you get low-profile heads or normal?
Stainless hex socket caps...
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Yep I just got something like those. They also had low profile sockets too (a more shallow socket) but I thing the regular height sockets will fit fine (that's why I was asking).
Now to have some fun wailing away at my manual hammer impact driver on those JIS screws!1993 GSX750F
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Since this thread isn't old yet, I just want to thank the posters here for the info. I changed out my boot orings today and the M6x1.00-16mm size is indeed perfect.
Home Depot carries plain (not stainless) steel ones. The baggies read "Cap screw socket 6mm x 16mm 6 Plain Steel DR#409" for anyone looking.
$2.64 total, and worth it after having to use penetrating oil, an impact driver, hammer, and vice grips to get the old ones out.
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Originally posted by rolofung View PostHey Foxox, were you having idle problems? Let us know how the o-rings worked out, mine should be arriving tomorrow.
Also, the RPMs hang high sometimes while decelerating with clutch pulled in and after revving at idle, which AFAIK, is either a lean jetting condition, or a vacuum leak (which would cause a lean condition, since extra air is getting sucked in).
The old orings were smushed flat and falling apart. #4 looked like it had a burned spot. There was a dark mark on the aluminum mating surface there under the oring which I couldn't completely rub away, even with mineral spirits or acetone. At least it is smooth now, so the oring should seal up well.
I haven't run the bike since then to know if anything changed; lubing my control cables took longer than I thought and I didn't want to raise hell in the neighborhood at 1am by running my noisy bike :P I will report back when I get a chance to run it. *fingers crossed*
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I tried running the bike today and took it around the block a few times. The bike was running really sluggishly and wouldn't idle so I can't say much until I get a chance to play with the AF screws... there's definitely some kind of mixture problem. I don't have any more time tonight to play with the bike but tomorrow I should get a chance and hopefully see what the new orings have really done.
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rolofung, have you changed your orings yet? Noticed a difference?
Turned out the left coil wasn't connected... in moving around the tank and changing the spark plugs I bumped it.... bike has ordinary amount of power after all.
So to let you know, rolofung, I still have a vacuum leak somewhere near the boots; the orings didn't solve everything. Spraying starting fluid onto the boots makes the RPMs go up (maybe has a lesser effect than before, though). I'm going to try sealing the airbox boots into the airbox with some RTV the next time I take the carbs out of the bike.
BTW, the old boot bolts fit nicely into a couple of the spots where I was missing bolts on the headlight/instrument mount. Recycling =)
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Hey foxox,
I haven't synced the carbs yet, since new o-rings will change the vacuum in each carb, but I just went for a test ride anyway.
The pulsing at idle is almost completely gone. I get some slight pulsing occasionally on deceleration, but it disappears when I come to a stop.
Maybe I just need to sync and see what happens.1993 GSX750F
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