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Just bought a Kat 750, needhelp figuring out if the battery is being charged.

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  • Just bought a Kat 750, needhelp figuring out if the battery is being charged.

    I don't know much about mechanics, but I do have a thing for it, and I also pick on things pretty fast, so please bare with me.

    I bought a 01 Kat 750 yesterday, rode it home last night, today I tried to start it, and the battery seemed dead, so I took the battery to get checked, and it turned out that it was really bad and that I needed a replacement. So i did get a replacement battery. My only concern now is that something else is wrong and that the battery is not getting charged

    I did read that the stator and Im not sure about this one but the regenerator???

    I also read that I could use a DC meter to test whether it's charging the battery or not... But I really have no clue... can you guys guide me in theright direction?


    thanks in advance!
    Happy riding!

  • #2
    If the bike sat around without getting ridden much before you bought it, the batteries on them tend to die - they just don't hold up as well as car batteries do. I'd just replace the battery and not really worry about it.

    Originally posted by BitKill3r View Post
    So i did get a replacement battery. My only concern now is that something else is wrong and that the battery is not getting charged
    I just realized I might have read this wrong - were you trying to say 1) you did get a replacement battery, and now that new battery isn't charging? Or 2) that you're worried about the new one maybe not charging and haven't installed and tested it out yet and want a heads up on other possibilities just in case?
    Last edited by shpielers; 04-18-2013, 12:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    1998 Katana 750
    1992 Katana 1100
    2006 Ninja 250

    2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

    Comment


    • #3
      If it dies and doesnt charge then it could point to a faulty alternator. But like shpielers said, get a new battery and don't worry much about it. If more things go wrong, feel free to post! Welcome to KR by the way

      Comment


      • #4
        I bought a replacement, replaced it. I just want to make sure that it is actually charging the new one, and that there's nothing else wrong with the stator, etc.

        Originally posted by xredjokerx View Post
        If it dies and doesnt charge then it could point to a faulty alternator. But like shpielers said, get a new battery and don't worry much about it. If more things go wrong, feel free to post! Welcome to KR by the way
        Thanks bud!
        Last edited by BitKill3r; 04-18-2013, 12:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

        Comment


        • #5
          chances are, it was just the battery. but stay near your house for the first few rides with the new battery just in case. if there is some other problem with the stator, you'll find out soon enough
          previous rides
          06 kat 600, 04 Triumph ST Streetfighter, 07 Vstar 1100, 03 GSXR 750, 03 Hayabusa, 07 SV 1000 , 02 Bandit 1200s, Current ride - 07 Roadliner 1900,
          next ride - another kat

          Comment


          • #6
            While the bike is running you can take a DMM and measure the battery and you should get something like 13.8 volts or something.. I dont remember exactly im sure someone can help more
            1993 KATANA 600- I was born in 1993!
            1980 yamaha xs400 Bobber- Project
            1988 yamaha YZ250
            1986 kawasaki KX80
            1971 Suzuki TS185- Project

            Comment


            • #7
              Okay, here is the basic low down for your bike...

              Tools you need to have:

              Volt meter (walmart carries digital ones for $10-$15)
              Contact Cleaner
              Dielectric grease

              Use the volt meter to test voltage output.

              Check your battery with key off. (should read over 12v.)
              Check your battery with the bike running, around idle (should show higher over 13v)
              Check your battery again with the bike running and at around 4k rpms.

              If you get readings when the bike is running that are higher than 14.6v, or lower than the battery test when the key was off (under 12) you have issues.

              If it's higher than 14.6v when the engine is at high rpms... then you need to check your alternator return voltage lead.

              To do that, pull off the left side fairing. You will see an orange wire that plugs into the alternator. You want to do the running test again keeping that wire plugged in, but testing the voltage at that plug to see what it is reading. If it is more than 0.1v difference than the testing at the battery you probably need to do some connector cleaning. If the running higher rpms at that lead exceeds 14.6v, then your probably looking at an issue with the voltage regulator that is inside the alternator. If you see the voltage is alot lower than the running test you did earlier and it does not exceed 14.6v... then you have a voltage drop in your wiring harness that is causing the alternator to push out more power than is needed, and overcharging the battery. Overcharging batteries will toast them. As mentioned... cleaning connectors and using the grease on the connections can help resolve that issue.
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
                Okay, here is the basic low down for your bike...

                Tools you need to have:

                Volt meter (walmart carries digital ones for $10-$15)
                Contact Cleaner
                Dielectric grease

                Use the volt meter to test voltage output.

                Check your battery with key off. (should read over 12v.)
                Check your battery with the bike running, around idle (should show higher over 13v)
                Check your battery again with the bike running and at around 4k rpms.

                If you get readings when the bike is running that are higher than 14.6v, or lower than the battery test when the key was off (under 12) you have issues.

                If it's higher than 14.6v when the engine is at high rpms... then you need to check your alternator return voltage lead.

                To do that, pull off the left side fairing. You will see an orange wire that plugs into the alternator. You want to do the running test again keeping that wire plugged in, but testing the voltage at that plug to see what it is reading. If it is more than 0.1v difference than the testing at the battery you probably need to do some connector cleaning. If the running higher rpms at that lead exceeds 14.6v, then your probably looking at an issue with the voltage regulator that is inside the alternator. If you see the voltage is alot lower than the running test you did earlier and it does not exceed 14.6v... then you have a voltage drop in your wiring harness that is causing the alternator to push out more power than is needed, and overcharging the battery. Overcharging batteries will toast them. As mentioned... cleaning connectors and using the grease on the connections can help resolve that issue.

                Thank You!!! This was exactly what I was looking for.

                I'll give it a try tomorrow.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
                  Okay, here is the basic low down for your bike...

                  Tools you need to have:

                  Volt meter (walmart carries digital ones for $10-$15)
                  Contact Cleaner
                  Dielectric grease

                  Use the volt meter to test voltage output.

                  Check your battery with key off. (should read over 12v.)
                  Check your battery with the bike running, around idle (should show higher over 13v)
                  Check your battery again with the bike running and at around 4k rpms.

                  If you get readings when the bike is running that are higher than 14.6v, or lower than the battery test when the key was off (under 12) you have issues.

                  If it's higher than 14.6v when the engine is at high rpms... then you need to check your alternator return voltage lead.

                  To do that, pull off the left side fairing. You will see an orange wire that plugs into the alternator. You want to do the running test again keeping that wire plugged in, but testing the voltage at that plug to see what it is reading. If it is more than 0.1v difference than the testing at the battery you probably need to do some connector cleaning. If the running higher rpms at that lead exceeds 14.6v, then your probably looking at an issue with the voltage regulator that is inside the alternator. If you see the voltage is alot lower than the running test you did earlier and it does not exceed 14.6v... then you have a voltage drop in your wiring harness that is causing the alternator to push out more power than is needed, and overcharging the battery. Overcharging batteries will toast them. As mentioned... cleaning connectors and using the grease on the connections can help resolve that issue.
                  Hey Kreylyn,
                  So I used a volt meter like you suggested, these were the results;

                  Bike off: 12.94v
                  Iddle: ~14.4v
                  4K: 14.6v

                  This seems good then, right?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BitKill3r View Post
                    Hey Kreylyn,
                    So I used a volt meter like you suggested, these were the results;

                    Bike off: 12.94v
                    Iddle: ~14.4v
                    4K: 14.6v

                    This seems good then, right?
                    Yep... just one last suggestion.

                    Go for a nice long ride... then test at 4k again.

                    Krey
                    93 750 Kat



                    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My $.02, get the service manual. It has all the tests laid out in a good format that most understand(even has pictures to boot). I've run most of the tests in there to ensure my parts were working correctly after I bought the bike.

                      Sent from my phone

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