[06pakat]

hate to sound like a noob, but is it just a matter of taking off that cover on the right side that says suzuki, unscrewing those 3 screws, pull it off, slot the screw holes, and put it back on? or is there some secret thing i should know about>?

[md86]

No , that's ABOUT it , but you'll need to be VERY careful , or you'll FUBAR the thing ...

[06pakat]

how could i mess it up? Im not gonna cut it to retard the timing, just to advance it, so to put it back to stock i could just line it back up with the Original holes and leave it at that.

[POP944]

This is mindlessly simple. If you have 20 minutes, a drill, a dremel and any sort of mechanical skill you can do this.

Good write-up BTW. I've noticed a slight difference in power (mostly mid-range). Only the butt-dyno though - nothing for hard numbers yet. I want to get the before & after for this, the jet kit, exhaust, intake and a couple of other little things - dyno time ain't cheap so I need to have everything else ready-to-go first.

[06pakat]

Whats the drill for?> I know the dremel is for slotting the screw holes and whats the max you can advance timing and keep it in a safe range?

[POP944]

Just to round out the slots a bit so they're not so ragged when you're done. That's how I did it anyway. You want 'em to look nice and professional:

(=====) Not (=====|

If you get what I mean. . .

[docbarlow]

Just copied the photos - next mod in place
Looks easy, THANKS

[Frilock]

I would really like to try this, but I don't want to screw up badly and then be screwed.

[MXG286]

How did you come up with the degree ticks ?

[BRkat]

1mm per 1 degree? not by my measurements

Obviously this has been tried and tested... but if there's ever anything I've learned, its measure twice cut once. So I checked the claim to 5mm for a 5 degree advance, and that's definitely not the case by what I figure.

With the protractor on top, 5 degrees is about 5mm at the outside edge of the plate, but where the holes are drilled, its only about 3mm to get a 5 degrees difference.

I took some pictures with the protractor and ruler resting on top... If someone wants to see them, PM me and maybe you could host them / link to the picture too if you think its worthwile at all.

-BR

[moto_psycho]

I still wanna see some dyno runs from this i will give it a try 2moro and let you lot know

and BRkat, go on google and search for free image hosting, theres millions

[MikeBetz42]

Re: Spark Advance

I am wondering if this can be done the same way on a '03 Kat 600 with Cal. emissions? The initial timing on the cal model is 4 degrees instead of 10? I also cannot see the pics. Thanks, Dave

Anyone know this answer?? I have a Cal model as well...

[MikeBetz42]

Re: Spark Advance

I am wondering if this can be done the same way on a '03 Kat 600 with Cal. emissions? The initial timing on the cal model is 4 degrees instead of 10? I also cannot see the pics. Thanks, Dave

Anyone know this answer?? I have a Cal model as well...

[mharrison]

Re: 1mm per 1 degree? not by my measurements

Obviously this has been tried and tested... but if there's ever anything I've learned, its measure twice cut once. So I checked the claim to 5mm for a 5 degree advance, and that's definitely not the case by what I figure.

With the protractor on top, 5 degrees is about 5mm at the outside edge of the plate, but where the holes are drilled, its only about 3mm to get a 5 degrees difference.

I took some pictures with the protractor and ruler resting on top... If someone wants to see them, PM me and maybe you could host them / link to the picture too if you think its worthwile at all.

-BR

So, has anybody else with the necessary math skills verified this?

[grumpyoldgit]

Re: Poor man's ignition advancer. Do it yourself

Well the advance should be 3-5° and 1° is almost exactly 1mm on the edge of the plate. So enlarge the holes about 5mm.

From this it would appear that meanstrk agrees that 5deg is approximately 5mm on the plate edge, therefore if you elongated the holes by 5mm and set the screws to the maximum deflection you would indeed be more than 5deg advanced.

However as he himself states that he uses 3deg advance I would surmise that the whole 5mm elongation is not required and that an elongation of 3mm would be sufficient to get 4.5-5deg of advance.

I have not physically measured this part and/or the deflections but from a purely mathmatical trigonometry analysis the above would seem to be correct.