[Ratbike92]

Bought the bike this year. Tax return you know. Haven't touched anything inside the motor or carbs. Just fairings, lights etc. So prolly just gonna try and find stock pipes.

[92xjunker]

You'll probably find a can at or below the cost of the stock exhaust

[katanarider]

92Xjunker, will a 600 header fit a 750 ? I believe he bought that header.
If not, Ratbike, you may need to cancel that order ASAP before it ships.
I'd really feel bad if thats the case. I just noticed your bike is a 750. I had to click your profile to see a good picture.
EDIT: Worse case senario, its got 30 day money back...but return shipping cost. According to the part numbers, the 600 exhaust doesn't fit. Click "Contact seller" to tell him the situation.

[92xjunker]

It will fit, not sure if the pipe size is the same.

[katanarider]

I had a feeling it would, but I really never put much research into it.
He knows more than me.
I'm guessing a little smaller isn't going to hurt. It should richen the mixture tho.
EDIT: I just thought about some thing else. I wonder if he has a post 1998 oil pan...Ouch.
Oh well, live and learn.

[Ratbike92]

I didn't buy it. All the system I found were stupid expensive. $200 or more. Alot of ppl selling them separate (left side, right side) I'm still digging around . I'm not gonna run the bike untill I get this figured out.

Also I think it has been jetted in the past, because idles fine. Wide open, fine. Mid range is where she pops i.e. 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Could it be possible I just need to adjust the needle, or main jet. Like I said I'm broke. I really don't wanna dump money into it if it's something simple

[katanarider]

KOOL !
Your better off buying the 750 exhaust. If you buy it left & right side, thats perfectly ok ! Thats the way its designed to fit together. The exhaust is hard to put on other wise, but its not impossible. I put mine on in one piece, but I scratched the fresh paint while doing so. If its separtated, its supposedly easier. Just make sure that if you buy the left & right that it has the clamp included with the package. The clamp holds the two pipes together at the "H -pipe" , which equals out the exhaust pressure from each side of the engine.
As for your oil pan... starting in 1998 the 4 into 1 headers/single exhaust was introduced. Suzuki changed the oil pan when that did that. The 4-1 oil pan hangs down real far on one side to allow more room for the 4-1 header on the right side. The oil pan thats supposed to be on your bike it more flat, same size on both the left and right side of the oil pan.
I know how you must feel. When I bought my Katana, I was new to the game too. Just take your time and do it correct. When its finally done, you'll be have a good reliable bike that will last you a long time and get 45 miles to a gallon.
EDIT: If you have to change the oil pan, you'll have to change the oil pick up tube also. Its just two bolts. If shopping ebay, keep that in mind. Sorry , I edit shit all the time because I have obsesive compulsive...disorder ?

[RobertTravis]

The 4:1 is a bit lighter than the stock system. Shedding weight = good. It *should* also move more air than stock...more air through the 'pump'/motor = more power. More air out means you need more fuel in...or you'll fry your motor running lean. This is carburator 101 stuff...Bikes, cars, lawn mowers...same stuff.

Jetting the carbs is easy. You can do it in a day if it is your first time. You'll need to sync the carbs so get yourself a set of gauges for doing it. Just follow the instructions. None of us were born knowing how to jet and sync carbs.

I'd also recommend a 4 degree ignition advancer. Between jetting the carbs and the advancer, it really woke my bike up over the entire RPM range. Lots more low end torque for low speed riding without putting feet down too.

[Ratbike92]

Ok so I changed out the spark plugs cause I was curious as to if they were white (running lean) or blackish (running rich) there was a little bit of white where it sparks but the rest of the plug was black. This should be in another thread but I wanted you all to be on this journey with me.

And I put new plugs in. ( used Kat wiki to find what plugs I needed) after install I started the bike. Imediately started popping then spit fire out the pipe twice. Shut it down, and now I'm drinkin my fustration away. Gonna have to pull these carbs I guess

My dumb ass had the fuel half way from reserve and primary, disregard spitting fire. I told y'all I was stupid.

[RobertTravis]

Pulling the carbs isn't that big of a deal...Pull the seat, tank, airbox, disconnect the linkages and pull them out of the boots. Your anticipation is worse than the actual job.

It's not all for naught...aside from jetting it up to get it in the proper stoich range, your bike will run better and have more power. Do the idle jet screws + main jets and sync them. It'll be well worth the effort...

[katanarider]

My dumb ass had the fuel half way from reserve and primary

I believe you had it set correct, assuming you have enough gas in the tank to disregard "Reserve". None the less, I leave mine on "Reserve" year around for the last 7-8 years. I prefer to do it like that because when I bought my bike I had other things that needed repair, so rebuilding the petcock was just more money. That being said, there is a little o-ring in the dial that turns it from prime -on-reserve. It wears out over time. Thats one of the first threads I ran across when I was scanning Katriders.com for the first time. I just decided to do it like that from the begining. Here it is 2017 with a stock 1996 petcock Pointed forwards is "Reserve", Down is "On", backwards is "Prime".

[Ratbike92]

Ok so if I run it on reserve will it run diff. I've been running on prime. I had no clue. I thought it was primary lmao. So prime, start it let warm up then switch to on. Or should i just run on reserve

[92xjunker]

Prime is only used when the bike has been store or the carbs were serviced, it's used to fill the bowls. I wouldn't recommend running on res constantly, as sediment in the fuel and tank could clog the carbs.

[katanarider]

I'm pretty good at taking care of my shit, for the most part. Its time consuming at first, but once you know whats going on, its just normal everyday life. Sure its a hastel sometimes, but so is washing clothes and taking out the trash. If your tank is clean, which mine is, then its not a problem. Like I said, 7-8 yrs (since 2009) its been this way. I think its better is some ways, because condensation builds on the bottom of the tank. With it on reserve, the water never gets a chance to build up, so it gets consumed by the engine before it hurts anything. I lined my tank with Kreem when I first bought it, so yeah, no problems here. You'll probably want to Apple Cider your tank to remove rust. Running on Prime=Not Good !
On a side not, before you fuck the fork seals. Wipe the chrome off every time you sit/ride the bike. When you compress the forks, your mashing trash down into the seals. Thats going to cause a leak=mo money.

[Ratbike92]

The line that runs from petcock to the carbs was disconnected. Now it runs with fuel to on position. Way less popping (close to none) I thank y'all for your feed back, it's helped a great deal.

Once I get my YouTube figures out I'll post a walk around and what not for you guys so you have an idea of where I'm at with the bike