I still kinda think it sounds like an exhaust leak. You are absolutely sure nothing is leaking? IMO, the only thing left after that is probably a little end bearing or possibly a cracked piston.
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definitely doesn't sound like valves. valves tick more than they knock. and I would rule out exhaust as well for the simple fact that if it was loose enough to knock like that, it would be visible.
and if you ruled out the chain tensioner....well, it doesn't look good. my guess is that you might have worn out wrist pins and your pistons are sloppy. rod bearings "could" be the culprit, but in general they are more apt to spin on the crank than to become loose and sloppy....and you don't usually hear that, and it will just seize up and possible snap a rod in the process.
my guess is sloppy wrist pins, which can be a relatively easy fix...at least compared to cracking open the bottom casing.
but as Nut-Nut stated, hard to tell from a video. but it does sound like a top end problem. I am sticking with wrist pins.Last edited by Mojoe; 03-24-2012, 02:12 PM.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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Install an oil pressure guage in the oil circuit, usually if a rod is knocking that loud you will see it in your oil pressure. Lower than specs call for but not low enough to trip oil switch. You may see the oil pressure rise and fall, should be pretty much stable."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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broken piston or bad crank bearing.... usually a rod bearing you can hear knocking even if the engine is just turning over under compression (spark plug wires removed) crank bearings need to be running before they are heard in most cases.
failing to warm up the engine slowly is a great way to bust a piston skirt, if that happends it makes a hell of a racket.
eitherway its not right and wont fix itself. Its time to tear it down and rebuild the engine98 GSX750F
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HardlyDangerous Motosports
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Originally posted by hardlydangerous View Postusually a rod bearing you can hear knocking even if the engine is just turning over under compression (spark plug wires removed) crank bearings need to be running before they are heard in most cases.
Just curious.90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View PostNo, just the crank moving fast enough to shake around a bit. Remember that a rod stops twice each revolution, so at each stop you'll get a knock from a rod. Cranks don't stop, so you need to spin them up to hear the bad bearing.
Makes sense. Replaced the crank bearings and big end bearings on the RM last time just for ****s and giggles.
The crank didnt seem to have much runout, but it DEFINITELY needed some new seals...what a mess...it was like sandy peanut butter down there90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Your RM uses roller or needle bearings. The Kat uses bearings like a car engine. Also, if one goes bad, there are 4 others to support as I believe the Kat is a 5 main bearing engine....but that doesn't last long. Also, the knocking is only when the rod next to the main bearing is near the top or bottom of the stroke. More stress on the crank at that point.
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Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View PostYour RM uses roller or needle bearings. The Kat uses bearings like a car engine. Also, if one goes bad, there are 4 others to support as I believe the Kat is a 5 main bearing engine....but that doesn't last long. Also, the knocking is only when the rod next to the main bearing is near the top or bottom of the stroke. More stress on the crank at that point.90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View PostNo, just the crank moving fast enough to shake around a bit. Remember that a rod stops twice each revolution, so at each stop you'll get a knock from a rod. Cranks don't stop, so you need to spin them up to hear the bad bearing.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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Originally posted by Mojoe View Postyou are correct, but you should add that this applies to both ends of the rod, which includes wrist pins, which can just as easily be the problem.
OP needs to tear that sucker down to make sure.90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View PostYour RM uses roller or needle bearings. The Kat uses bearings like a car engine.
I am not questioning which is right or wrong or anything like that.....just curious is all.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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The rings don't cushion anything. The piston is free to move in the rings. There is a fine film of oil that helps keep it centered, but really that's it. On a worn motor, you see the marks in the cylinder from the piston. It's typically a mark on the front of the wall, and another on the back. That's normal wear from the piston skirt as it moves front to rear with the change in the stroke. All the rings do is seal the cylinder and wipe the oil off the cylinder walls.
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Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View PostThe piston is free to move in the rings.
Either way...OP needs to either spend some time or buy a new engine.
Afterall, it's a Katana 600, and you can get one of those engines for cheaper than replacing a bearing. Hell almost as cheap as the bearings themselves90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.
Originally posted by BadfaerieI love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means pooOriginally posted by soulless kaosbut personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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