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Finally got the bike started!!! BUT...

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  • #1

    Finally got the bike started!!! BUT...

    It is a 2006 750. Now that it is started (and not leaking fuel from carb #2's float bowl) it revs up to 5k rpm then continues to rev up to 6k (as if someone is gradually getting on the throttle). The choke is not on. It also has a slight, read almost indiscernable, popping in the exhaust. It is dark out now and flashlights aren't doing it, so my plan is to have at it tomorrow and saturday.

    The steps I plan on taking are:
    1. investigate the throttle cables and linkages between the carbs to make sure they function properly and smoothly
    2. make sure the choke slide is closing completely

    If there are any other things I should be checking please let me know. I also plan on changing the oil (again because it doesn't look right to me) and doing a valve adjustment.

    Thanks,
    Marc


    "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." Oscar Wilde

    “Socialism never took root in America because the poor see themselves not as an exploited proletariat but as temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” John Steinbeck
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  • #2
    Vac leak, dirty carbs
    -Steve


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    • #3
      While you're in there make sure that your idle adjustment screw isn't causing it. Back it out until it doesn't touch the bellcrank and then turn it back in until it just barely moves the bellcrank again. Make sure you've got a little slack in the throttle cables before adjusting the idle screw.
      Wherever you go... There you are!

      17 Inch Wheel Conversion
      HID Projector Retrofit

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      • #4
        Originally posted by steves View Post
        Vac leak, dirty carbs
        I just cleaned them. You can rule that out.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by arsenic View Post
          I just cleaned them. You can rule that out.
          Probably. Most likely even.

          Even you make mistakes, Arsenic. I've got a set of carbs you did a few years ago and...
          Of course, they're 1100 carbs which isn't your thing.

          Not hacking on your skills, just making the point that it's too early to rule anything out. You can put something like that on the 'Not Likely' list but not on the 'No Way At All' list.
          Last edited by Wild-Bill; 03-15-2012, 09:19 PM.
          Wherever you go... There you are!

          17 Inch Wheel Conversion
          HID Projector Retrofit

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          • #6
            Vac leak, gets worse as the bike warms up and rubber expands.
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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            • #7
              First of all, those 1100 carbs you got were done by me like 3 or 4 years ago. Did I separate and blast them than, no. Was I half as good as I am now, no. Second, I didn't send them to you. I sent them to the owner, whom you bought the big from, yet the carb issues are my fault? Third, that is the only 1100 set I've ever done, up until and since. Yet I've done a whole lot of 98-06 750 carbs. I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, they were not dirty. Now, if there is sediment in the gas tank that has now gone through the jets, I can't comment. But, beyond any doubt, I didn't leave them dirty.
              Also Bill, this isn't a set of carbs I cleaned like last year. They were at my house a week ago. I shipped them last Saturday.
              Last edited by arsenic; 03-16-2012, 01:07 AM.

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              • #8
                Thanks for all the help. i will try all the suggestions (one at a time) tonight and let you know how it works out.

                For the vac leak how much worse would it get as the bike warmed up? I am sure it depends on how big the leak is and all, but would it only jump to 6k (from 5k) and then stay there? My understanding is that it would continue to rise. Correct me if I am wrong.

                As for the carbs being dirty, I dipped them in December and the bike still wouldn't even attempt to turn over. I sent them to Arsenic as a CMA/rule-the-carbs-out precaution. I can say that coming back from Illinois they were 100x cleaner than dipping them.

                BTW Arsenic the leak was the bowl gasket.
                Last edited by sonosam; 03-16-2012, 05:20 AM.


                "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." Oscar Wilde

                “Socialism never took root in America because the poor see themselves not as an exploited proletariat but as temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” John Steinbeck

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                • #9
                  Was it just not seated in the groove? You fixed it correct?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                    ...yet the carb issues are my fault? ...
                    Not looking to hijack the thread or even just hack on you. FTR, The issues I found weren't related to dirt, sediment or dried fuel. They were wrong length screws, uneven adjustments and wrong/unequal float settings. Settings might have been altered by the PO after he got the carbs back from you but the screws?

                    My point isn't 'Arsenic screws up', it's that stuff happens, even when you've taken all reasonable and even a few unreasonable precautions to avoid it. When you're trying to track down a problem you list the possible causes and then start ruling them out. Just because you've already been in an area doesn't mean that the problem isn't there.
                    Wherever you go... There you are!

                    17 Inch Wheel Conversion
                    HID Projector Retrofit

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                      Was it just not seated in the groove? You fixed it correct?
                      Yes, I fixed it. Yes, it was not seated properly.


                      "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." Oscar Wilde

                      “Socialism never took root in America because the poor see themselves not as an exploited proletariat but as temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” John Steinbeck

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
                        Not looking to hijack the thread or even just hack on you. FTR, The issues I found weren't related to dirt, sediment or dried fuel. They were wrong length screws, uneven adjustments and wrong/unequal float settings. Settings might have been altered by the PO after he got the carbs back from you but the screws?

                        My point isn't 'Arsenic screws up', it's that stuff happens, even when you've taken all reasonable and even a few unreasonable precautions to avoid it. When you're trying to track down a problem you list the possible causes and then start ruling them out. Just because you've already been in an area doesn't mean that the problem isn't there.
                        I'm not your local dealer Bill. People pay me to not screw this up. So just because I've been there DOES mean the problem isn't there. And the wrong length screws, they held the float bowls on right? His float bowl gasket on the #2 carb leaked and that pizzed me off. I'm a perfectionist Bill, do you really think leaving carbs dirty would ever happen?
                        Last edited by arsenic; 03-16-2012, 11:37 AM.

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                        • #13
                          Update:
                          So over the past couple of days I have been mostly busy with the Honey-Do list, but I have had some sporadic chances to look over the bike. I readjusted the A/F screws to 2 turns out (I know recommended is 2.5), disconnected the throttle and choke cables, backed the idle screw out to where it wasn't touching anything, and rechecked the bench sync. Bike started and revved at 3k rpm for all of a minute then back up to 5k slowly.

                          This makes me suspect a vacuum leak as the root of the problem. I plan to investigate this further sometime this week/end. I will also readjust the A/F screws to 2.5.

                          Anyone have any idea what would cause white smoke out of the exhaust. Google failed me (I wasn't really all that thorough as I am pretty busy). Also when I turn the A/F screws to 2 turns out, the popping in the exhaust went away. Is the popping possible coming from being too rich?

                          Thanks again.


                          "Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." Oscar Wilde

                          “Socialism never took root in America because the poor see themselves not as an exploited proletariat but as temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” John Steinbeck

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                          • #14
                            No, popping comes from being too lean. White smoke is water aka condensation somewhere.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by sonosam View Post
                              Update:
                              So over the past couple of days I have been mostly busy with the Honey-Do list, but I have had some sporadic chances to look over the bike. I readjusted the A/F screws to 2 turns out (I know recommended is 2.5), disconnected the throttle and choke cables, backed the idle screw out to where it wasn't touching anything, and rechecked the bench sync. Bike started and revved at 3k rpm for all of a minute then back up to 5k slowly.

                              This makes me suspect a vacuum leak as the root of the problem. I plan to investigate this further sometime this week/end. I will also readjust the A/F screws to 2.5.

                              Anyone have any idea what would cause white smoke out of the exhaust. Google failed me (I wasn't really all that thorough as I am pretty busy). Also when I turn the A/F screws to 2 turns out, the popping in the exhaust went away. Is the popping possible coming from being too rich?

                              Thanks again.
                              Bench sync? No vacuum sync? Vacuum sync them before you try much else.

                              If the popping goes away at two turns, it's getting extra fuel from somewhere. Leaky float needles?

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