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750 Katana - after valve adjustment

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  • #1

    750 Katana - after valve adjustment

    I adjusted my valves at about 3,000 miles recently. Bike is 2006 model, bought new. 15 valves were a lil tight and 1 was a lil loose. Now it starts quicker and runs smoother.

    However, at about 6,000 rpm, plus or minus 500 rpm, the engine makes a rattlin noise. Does not matter what gear it is in. After 6,500 rpm is is fine all the way to 11,000 rpm. Under 5,500 is is quite too.

    Maybe I am paranoid, but I do not remember it doing this before.

    I also put Suzuki 10x40 oil in this time, before I used 20x50.

    Any comments?
    Last edited by active1951; 04-26-2008, 07:07 PM.
    "The internet has the best and the worst..."
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Originally posted by active1951 View Post
    I adjusted my valves at about 3,000 miles recently. Bike is 2006 model, bought new. 15 valves were a lil tight and 1 was a lil loose. Now it starts quicker and runs smoother.

    However, at about 6,000 rpm, plus or minus 500 rpm, the engine makes a rattlin noise. Does not matter what gear it is in. After 6,500 rpm is is fine all the way to 11,000 rpm. Under 5,500 is is quite too.

    Maybe I am paranoid, but I do not remember it doing this before.

    I also put Suzuki 10x40 oil in this time, before I used 20x50.

    Any comments?
    20-50 thats thick. WOW. I havn't been in this bike game long. Maybe Im wrong I know cars 20-50 is like 100,000 plus engine. And a bike to close tol.
    sigpic
    Update Jul 11 2014
    Done finally road worthy, Huge difference in looks compare to the pic in my SIG. Will update everything soon.

    Comment

    • #3
      Yea I would think that 20w50 is way to thick unless you live in an area that is realy hot all year round. As to the noise I dont think it is anything to worry about but Arsenic, BP or Cyber might have different thoughts. Odd that the noise is only in a very specific rpm range. Maybe a loose bolt /shrug

      Comment

      • #4
        Starting from the basics:

        Doing a valve adjust. requires quite the removal of many parts so did you tighten everything back up to specs?

        BTW, I run 20-50 oil year round for years, if you see the chart is rated to temps from 32F to over 100 something, perfect for my low elevation SoCal location and high mileage original engine.
        2000 Suzuki Katana 600 (Cryogenic suspension)
        2002 Kawasaki Vulcan (Gone)
        2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 (Gone)
        2015 Kawasaki Ninja 650.

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by 2000kat600 View Post
          Starting from the basics:

          Doing a valve adjust. requires quite the removal of many parts so did you tighten everything back up to specs?

          BTW, I run 20-50 oil year round for years, if you see the chart is rated to temps from 32F to over 100 something, perfect for my low elevation SoCal location and high mileage original engine.
          ok, yeah I didn't know that ok thats kewl.
          sigpic
          Update Jul 11 2014
          Done finally road worthy, Huge difference in looks compare to the pic in my SIG. Will update everything soon.

          Comment

          • #6


            ... I think that I've just got dissed by rok start bars!?!?!?

            ...thought we'd start building da house from the foundation up!?
            2000 Suzuki Katana 600 (Cryogenic suspension)
            2002 Kawasaki Vulcan (Gone)
            2006 Kawasaki ZX-14 (Gone)
            2015 Kawasaki Ninja 650.

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by 2000kat600 View Post


              ... I think that I've just got dissed by rok start bars!?!?!?

              ...thought we'd start building da house from the foundation up!?
              No dissing here. Just learning something new everyday. I havn't been in the motorcycle world not even a year yet. I been going to school and turning wrenches in the automotive world for about 6 years so Im still learning.
              sigpic
              Update Jul 11 2014
              Done finally road worthy, Huge difference in looks compare to the pic in my SIG. Will update everything soon.

              Comment

              • #8
                Being as the noise is in so specific an RPM range, it really sounds like a resonance type thing. Something else is wanting to rattle at that same frequency. I would go back through and make sure everything that you took off is nice and tight and like it should be with no wires sitting where they shouldn't be.
                Pics
                Pics
                No pics yet
                Just because they sound the same doesn't mean they are: there≠their≠they're; to≠too≠two; its≠it's; your≠you're; know≠no; brake≠break

                Comment

                • #9
                  My way-simple rule on 20w50 vs 10w40:

                  If you would burn your feet walking barefoot across asphalt at the hottest time of the day, you need to run 20w50. Otherwise, run 10w40.

                  Oh, and the rattle -- betcha it's something like the windshield or the gas tank. Get it to that RPM on an empty interstate, then take your left hand and start pushing against fairings, tank, windshield, gas cap, etc. If it suddenly disappears, you found it.

                  Cheers,
                  =-= The CyberPoet
                  Remember The CyberPoet

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                    My way-simple rule on 20w50 vs 10w40:

                    If you would burn your feet walking barefoot across asphalt at the hottest time of the day, you need to run 20w50. Otherwise, run 10w40.

                    Oh, and the rattle -- betcha it's something like the windshield or the gas tank. Get it to that RPM on an empty interstate, then take your left hand and start pushing against fairings, tank, windshield, gas cap, etc. If it suddenly disappears, you found it.

                    Cheers,
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    Yea, I thought the tank buzzed a lil, but I will apply pressure to see if I can find the rattlin. When I put everything back together, I was wondering about the tank and that crossmember or brace that goes across top of frame rails. It had 2 rubber bumpers on it, but I did not see where they would be used. Also does the tank bottom on the sides sit against the crossmember? I know the tank is mounted in rubber at the back, but it seems odd for it to be right up against the crossmember, but maybe that is normal. Pics in Suzuki manual are black/white and not real clear.

                    I had a new Suzuki 750 in 1981(I am old), with no bodywork, guess they call them nakid or standard bikes now, but it was easy to work on them, back-in-the-day.....

                    Thanks for all the input!
                    "The internet has the best and the worst..."

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      not sure on the 98+ but there are rubber bumpers on the frame brace over the cylinder head, a rubber thingy between the forward tank bracket and tank, and two rubber shims on the 10mm tank bolts
                      1993 Suzuki GSX600F

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by active1951 View Post
                        I was wondering about the tank and that crossmember or brace that goes across top of frame rails. It had 2 rubber bumpers on it, but I did not see where they would be used.
                        The frame rail needs to be bolted in so that those two rubber feet are facing up and are behind the rail, kind of like this:
                        <nose><cross-brace><feet><airbox area>

                        Usually, if the tank rattles, it's because someone pried it up when removing it -- the front of the tank has two C-shaped channels that grab onto a rubber pad on the frame. To remove it properly, you need to unbolt it at the rear, disconnect the hoses for the petcock & vacuum, raise the back just about an inch, then slide the whole tank rearwards about 6" before lifting up any significant amount. Failure to do that will tend to bend those C-channels out of shape and then the front of the tank won't grab onto it's mount tightly.

                        Cheers,
                        =-= The CyberPoet
                        Remember The CyberPoet

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          [QUOTE]
                          Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                          The frame rail needs to be bolted in so that those two rubber feet are facing up and are behind the rail, kind of like this:
                          <nose><cross-brace><feet><airbox area>
                          Great info. Just tore it apart and reversed the brace, betcha that was rattlin noise. Since stuff was still clean it was hard to tell how it came apart since there was time between takin it apart and puttin it back together. Had to wait on Dealer to get valve adj tool in. It would be nice if part was marked or it was not possible to install it wrong. I did not take pics either, oh well..........
                          "The internet has the best and the worst..."

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Originally posted by active1951 View Post
                            Had to wait on Dealer to get valve adj tool in.
                            I keep them here, and 90% of what I ship in the USA is there on the 3rd postal day (i.e. - order Monday night, get it by Thursday afternoon). That makes me faster than most dealers can order from the Suzuki warehouse in the first place on what I do carry...

                            Originally posted by active1951 View Post
                            It would be nice if part was marked or it was not possible to install it wrong.
                            Actually, if you look at the ends of the cross-brace bar, it should be obvious, as they are tapered to run parallel to the frame's own bend, at least on the 98+ models.

                            Cheers,
                            =-= The CyberPoet
                            Remember The CyberPoet

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              [quote=
                              Actually, if you look at the ends of the cross-brace bar, it should be obvious, as they are tapered to run parallel to the frame's own bend, at least on the 98+ models.

                              Cheers,
                              =-= The CyberPoet[/quote]

                              I had it flipped over, ends were lined up fine, bolt holes were lined up fine, looked ok. First time I had done this. I have 2 vans, 99 Z28, 75 Vette, and gf car to maintain. I might have been a lil distracted on that day too.

                              Originally posted by The CyberPoet View Post
                              I keep them here, and 90% of what I ship in the USA is there on the 3rd postal day (i.e. - order Monday night, get it by Thursday afternoon). That makes me faster than most dealers can order from the Suzuki warehouse in the first place on what I do carry...
                              I think I checked with you many months ago and your suppliers had raised prices and you were lookin elsewhere. I also had problems getting into this website for a while. Hey, but maybe it is just me and my wild imagination or maybe I am having a almost senior moment ....
                              Last edited by active1951; 04-29-2008, 07:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                              "The internet has the best and the worst..."

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