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**ckholloway** · 08-28-2009, 11:37 PM

I don't know what they did to it but def. sounds to me like they screwed with the carbs other then sync. If they are setup like the pre's then they are vacuum and unless the petcock is bad when it's not running no fuel is passing through it. In other words there is no fuel shut of. If the diaphrams in the petcock are bad they will allow fuel to pass through when it's not running and then it can over flow past the bowls and into the cylinders.
As far as the way it's running and starting, it can be fuel related or it also sounds like they could have gotten the valves to tight.
I don't know if any of that helps you and I don't know that I am 100% right but thats what it sounds like to me.

**squiggy** · 08-29-2009, 12:23 AM

Originally posted by rockin6d View Post

Is the fuel shut off not shuttin off? Or what else could let fuel get into the oil besides flooding through the carbs? What do i need to check when i open it up?

The flooding would be a result of the float needles sticking. I suspect from sitting for so long. It is flooding through the carbs.

What part of "open it up" are you talking about? The carbs?

**None2Slow** · 08-29-2009, 01:13 AM

Its your fuel shut off not shutting off. I just went throught the EXACT same problem with my 2000 750. I pulled the tank to get the air box off. When I got the airbox off, it had about a quart of fuel in it. I drained a total of 7 quarts out of the oil pan/ airbox. I took the petcock off and pulled the diaphram apart. didn't see any tears in it, so I cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been running great ever since. Its worth a shot and make sure you run fresh oil through the motor and then change it before riding it. Fuel in the oil will wash down the cylinder walls and cause the rings to burn up.

**DumbLuck** · 08-29-2009, 02:18 AM

combination of leaking petcock (assuming it's not set on prime) AND bad/sticking/loose float assy in at least one carb. the crappy running could well be from the float height being wrong (too much fuel in the bowl). pull the carbs and check that each float assy is firmly seated, and the 2 o-rings are snug. set the float height to 14.5mm. DRAIN AND CHANGE THE OIL IMMEDIATELY. if it's polluted with gas you're gonna do some major engine damage. drain the oil cooler too. do both of these projects before running it any more. also, replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug eery oil change. only costs ya a buck, and avoids an annoying little oil drip

**rockin6d** · 08-29-2009, 09:22 AM

I've already changed the oil, did that at work before i brought it home. Didn't think about the oil cooler though, thanks for the reminder.

I'll open it up as far as i need to to get it fixed, i just don't want to have to do it twice!

Thanks everyone. Please keep the ideas/reminders coming in. I want to make sure i cover all possibilities when i go into it. I ride too hard and too often to take a chance on my old feeble mind forgetting or missing anything.

**Kfreak** · 08-29-2009, 12:05 PM

Missing bolts..... cracked dash....... bike not running right after the work was done...... they are out!.

Sounds like a possible muff up of the valve adjustment. Where did the K&N come from. During or before the service? Causes a lean condition. So many questions to ask.

How did the bike run before the work? Excluding the starter problem.

**rockin6d** · 08-29-2009, 12:37 PM

Originally posted by Kfreak View Post

Missing bolts..... cracked dash....... bike not running right after the work was done...... they are out!.

Sounds like a possible muff up of the valve adjustment. Where did the K&N come from. During or before the service? Causes a lean condition. So many questions to ask.

How did the bike run before the work? Excluding the starter problem.

K & N the day i bought it, Put on 30,000+ miles - bike ran strong. It'ld take a good rider and a litter bike to stay ahead of me strong.

Valves were starting to get noisy when the starter quit. After push starting this monster a couple times it went to the shop. Shop came highly reccomended & i trusted the reccomends. MY MISTAKE!! Never again will I let someone else do the work because i don't have the tools at hand. but I'm still p***ed and I digress,,back to topic.

I'm expecting to have to purchase the tools needed and to re-adjust both valves and carbs, myself. I just want to cover any and all possible problems when I go into it. especially the fuel gettin into the oil part. Questions..ask them, thats how we learn.

PS - The shop was Metric Cycles in Tulsa OK. The only recommendation I'll give them is for the biggest crooks and worst mechanics I've ever seen.

**DumbLuck** · 08-29-2009, 02:12 PM

there really isnt anything too special you'll need for either job than the valve adjustor tool (TheCyberPoet has um cheap) and a good set of metric feeler gauges. you might want a 8mm box end wrench you can put a bend in to work the lock valve stem lock nuts easier. torque wrench for the valve cover fasteners perhaps, they are VERY easy to strip out, which you really do NOT want to do.

carb cleaning could be a good excuse for buying a compressor, as you want lots and lots of air to go along with the carb cleaner

**Kfreak** · 08-29-2009, 02:24 PM

Address the gas in oil first. It could be time for a petcock re-build. The "O" rings go bad. That should solve that problem. Unless you put it on prime and left it on prime. If you did leave it on prime and it overflowed, you have sticky needle vales for the floats in the carb's. Do your valve adjustment on a COLD engine only. If you have a sync tool, check the carb's for balance after the valve adjustment. The shop did solve one of your problems.... bad starter.

**rockin6d** · 08-29-2009, 11:12 PM

Originally posted by Kfreak View Post

Address the gas in oil first. It could be time for a petcock re-build. The "O" rings go bad. That should solve that problem. Unless you put it on prime and left it on prime. If you did leave it on prime and it overflowed, you have sticky needle vales for the floats in the carb's. Do your valve adjustment on a COLD engine only. If you have a sync tool, check the carb's for balance after the valve adjustment. The shop did solve one of your problems.... bad starter.

I'm going to start in sun. after work. I'll have sun eve and mon to get it figured out, shops around here are closed sun & mon so i can't get repair parts until tues. Bike was/has not been on prime except by mistake when trying to hit reserve while rolling. I wont be able to get a sync tool until payday but if i can get my compressor back from my brother i've got a good one of those. I've prolly got all the hand tools needed, just don't have any of the speciality stuff like vaccume gauges, compression tester, etc. So far it looks like i'm going to tear open the fuel petcock and check/repair it. check and readjust valve lash. Do another oil change. Change plugs. get a syncroniser on payday and learn how to sync the carbs. Maybe try to find an adapter for my compression gauge that will get into the top of this engine & check compression, I figure the compression gauge i have for my cars will work if i can get an adapter to reach.

Keep it coming riders, what else do I need to check?

as far as the starter - if rebuilt starters cost 285.00 or new starters come with oil stained cases then they did ok. othewise they sc***ed me there too. But i'm trying to get past it and get the bike right again.

**StevieB** · 08-29-2009, 11:35 PM

Geez, DON'T TOUCH IT! DON'T CHANGE A THING! Park that puppy, and call the Suzuki Field Service Rep- get his number from the stealership (an appropriate work if ever there was one) or another dealership if they won't give it to you. Call HIM, and insist that he come take a look at the bike pronto.

Go from there.

**rockin6d** · 08-31-2009, 09:12 AM

Originally posted by StevieB View Post

Geez, DON'T TOUCH IT! DON'T CHANGE A THING! Park that puppy, and call the Suzuki Field Service Rep- get his number from the stealership (an appropriate work if ever there was one) or another dealership if they won't give it to you. Call HIM, and insist that he come take a look at the bike pronto.

Go from there.

What good would that do?

**DumbLuck** · 08-31-2009, 11:25 AM

the field rep will get all over the shop, plus see it's fixed right

**rockin6d** · 08-31-2009, 04:55 PM

Oh He** no! Thats like complaining about the food in a resteraunt and sending the food back, Ya got no idea what the cook will do to it before sending it back out. No Way is that shop touchin it again!! Like usin Pen soil, NO WAY!!!!! will that gaarbage ever touch anything I own, ever. To borrow a quote "revenge is a dish best served cold". That shop will get it's due, sometime, someway, somewhere, I will make the shop pay. But now is not the time, now I just need to get my baby fixed. Vengeance will provide it's own opportunity in it's own good time.

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