I've tried searching for the answers but can't find them as I don't know the various terms and parts etc so I am asking for your help. What I want to do is adjust the suspension so that when I sit on my bike("05 Katana 750) there is more give(it barely moves now when I sit on it and I'm 230 lbs) so that I will be able to touch the ground better. Does this need a special tool? Thanks in advance.
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All 98+ rear shock have at least two adjustments:
1. Preload. This adjustment pre-compresses the shock's spring to reduce sag and compensate for heavier loads without the rear sitting excessively low. This is the stepped collar at the bottom of the shock with numbers 1 through 7. You use the tool in the toolkit (if yours came with one) to adjust this; the tool looks like a half-moon shaped crescent with a handle; slip over the extension tube to get sufficient leverage. 1 is the least amount of preload, 7 is the most. The number 4 setting is stock. At 230 lbs, you probably need a setting of 5 if you are a fairly normal rider, 6 if you tend to rail the bike hard.
If your Kat didn't come with the tool, PM me, as I sell them (about $8 plus shipping).
2. Rebound. On the shock is also a black knob with the numbers 1 through 4. These have to do with the oil passage constriction size and it's designed to be set to eliminate yo-yo'ing of the rear spring after it hits a bump and is returning to it's normal position. 2 is the stock setting. If at the stock setting, you are still getting too much yo-yo action, increase the number to 3.
3. The 98+ 750 has an additional control on the remote oil container (under the seat, strapped to the outside rear frame rail); this is the oil damper adjustment. It controls the amount of rise/squat the bike produces at the rear under acceleration and braking. I'm not sure if it has pre-numbered adjustments or not... if you turn the knob and feel "clicks" then it effectively does.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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There is actually a distance that you should measure and then adjust the suspension that way. I can't remember the sag distance right off hand (I'm waiting for a reply on another forum), but once you've reached the right range of measurement, you've got your preload set properly.
For rebound, use the setting that gives a 1 second return from compression without a lag or yo-yo effect.
Is that third setting on the 750 compression, CP? I sure wish the Kat had more ability for changing the suspension settings. A guy in the class I took this week said it was night and day difference after they adjusted his suspension.Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
-Unknown Author
The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love.
-Terence
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Originally posted by arsenic View Postthe Katana suspension just flat out sucks. Thats why I swapped a 1992 GSXR 750 rear shock rebuilt by Race Tech.Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
-Unknown Author
The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love.
-Terence
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Ok. Got the measurements from the course instructor. The range is about 28-32mm for the rear. (32-38mm in front). So, if you can hit 30mm in the rear you'll have your rear suspension dialed in.Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
-Unknown Author
The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love.
-Terence
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Originally posted by brooder View Posts that third setting on the 750 compression, CP? I sure wish the Kat had more ability for changing the suspension settings. A guy in the class I took this week said it was night and day difference after they adjusted his suspension.
There are other shocks out there that fit the Kat that give you exactly what you are asking for (the Ohlins I had and have on my Kats for example); they're not cheap compared to the cost of the bike, but they are a very-competitive price if you look at the replacement charge to order a new OEM Suzuki shock for the Kat, esp. given that the Ohlins are rebuildable. Ditto Hagon units out of the UK.
I actually prefer the Ohlins SU-802 to the SU-801, even though the SU-802 has no remote oil reservoir and less adjustability as a result; getting it set correctly is far less work and it's far harder to screw up the settings by a significant amount.
Oh, and pre-load/static-sag: it depends on the brand/make of shock. The Ohlins documentation specifically states a 5 to 10mm static sag sans rider (measured from centerstand with wheel not touching to no centerstand, resting on the wheel upright sans rider), and a 40mm total sag for a fully loaded Kat (rider, passenger, luggage).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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hey, CP, one question.
I read your above explanation of how to adjust the rear shock, and I'm a little confused.
I see the collar that the spanner wrench goes on(I think), however, i'm unable to find any markings that indicate the 1-7 for the spring preload, like you indicated.
this collar is at the top of the shock by the oil fitting, right?
I also dont really see any "steps" indicated by Rodimus in chat, he explained that the collar has steps on it, basically the deepest indent is softer, and the shallowest indent is hardest, meaning the shallowest indent will give the highest preload.
can you explain further about the adjusting collar?
my rear suspension is VERY soft, and I'd like to firm it up to the "5" you recommended, as I'm 6'4" and about 235lbs.
thanks for helping the n00b!Last edited by JayBell; 07-05-2008, 01:15 PM.
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thanks for the pic, my shock does not have that bottom adjuster.
my shock has a threaded collar with 2 gear like nuts at the TOP of the shock, by the oil fitting, obviously, one is a tigheting nut, the other is the jam nut to keep it there.
do i have a aftermarket shock?
top view showing the adjuster
bottom mount
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T-Rex Racing framesliders install and review thread
Full Post 98 LED conversion how to thread
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Definitely looks like it might be, but I can't say defintiively for a 750 of your year (would have to see the remote adjuster as well).
In your case, preload is adjusted by loosen the top nut, turning the bottom nut down further, then snugging the top nut to lock the lower nut into place.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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