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At this point my wife will not ride with me at free-way speeds due to the vibrations in the rear foot pegs. I have a 2001 Kat 600 and it looks like there is no rubber isolations on the rear pegs like there is on the front pegs. Anyone have a fix for this? After as little as 10min on the freeway @ 65-70 her feet hurt. I need a quick fix. I also is there any cheap ways to help get rid of the same buzzing vibrations in the handle bars? Thanks for the help!
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Same problem I had with the bars.... read http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7739 (read the whole article, has alot of good info in it)
That may fix some of the peg problems as well... -
If the rubber foot peg covers are gone then you're best bet is just to replace them. Odd that the rear peg ones are gone but the front ones are not. Normally you'd think it'd be the other way around if someone wanted more of a racing look with the pegs.
There's several things you to help with the vibrations on the handlebars.. get some gel grips, heavier bar ends, a good pair of riding gloves, you can also fill the handlebars with beebee's or another similar type of material to add more weight to them.
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Just asked my wife if it bothered her when she rode on the back ,back in the day that is she has her own bike now, but anyway I had taken the rubber cushens off my rear pegs years ago to match the after market fronts and even then she had no problems with vibration..Hows your chain and sprocks?Rear wheel bearings? could be worn enough to cause annoying vibes..All joking aside shes not wearing flippinflops is she or the like,improperfoot wear wont absorb vibration..Comment
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I can't help your rear peg problem, but we all have touble with the vibe in the handlebars. I have found that a full tank of gas (or at least more than 1/2+) takes a huge amount of vibe out of the whole bike.
I realize it's a pain to stop more often for fuel, but if it helps
R.I.P. MarcComment
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The pegs still have all the rubber on it. My wife generally wears a good pair of sneakers when riding. The vibration is not due to any thing worn. It’s a motor buzzing vibration. If you look at the rear foot pegs there is no rubber isolation at all from the frame. The front pegs have a rubber bushing separating it from the contact from the frame.
Has anyone ever used some sort of rubber to isolate the rear mount from the frame? I really wonder why they didn’t design the back pegs like the front…Comment
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Chris,
What's your mileage, when's the last time you did (or had done) a valve adjustment & carb sync, and how old are your tires? What's the condition/age of the chain & sprockets? Are you using an aftermarket exhaust and/or jetkit? All of these would factor into the vibration...
Generally, the raised rubber strips should absorb virtually all the vibration at the rear pegs, provided the bike isn't vibrating too excessively to begin with... Which it sounds like may be the case (too much vibes being generated).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Tires are almost new. I check the valves about 5K ago, 10K on the bike. I haven't done a carb sync in a while. I still can't see a valve adjustment or carb sync causing these vibes. I only get them from about 60-70ish MPH anything above that or below that speed in 6th gear has no vibrations.Originally posted by The CyberPoetComment
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Maybe there isn't a problem...maybe she wants her own bike and doesn't want to ride on the back...she probably noticed that you were having so much fun as the pilot that she wants to have the same amount of fun...
Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
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nah nah nah nah nah nah JAX! (special thnx to sexwax)Comment
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A lack of sync on the carbs can induce noticably extra vibes. If you have the tools, it'll only take you an hour to sync 'em (including getting the tank/fairings out of the way and back on afterwards).Originally posted by Chris07
Q: Do you get the same vibration at the same RPM's in any other gear?
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Yes I think the vibrations are in the same range in all gears. I do have the tools to sync, just been a little lazy. Up to this point I have came to terms that this is a "buzzy" bike.Originally posted by The CyberPoetComment
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Then it would seem you are settling for something you don't have to...Originally posted by Chris07
The engine's inherent design is not very vibration prone (applies in general to all modern inline-4-cylinders, including cars). The primary sources of engine vibrations for this design are down to differences in actually moving masses (which is very slight based on modern production techniques) and down to three controllable factors.
The three controllable engine factors are:
(A) Differences in valve clearances between pairs (i.e. - each cylinder has 2 intake valves -- the closer they pair are to each other in absolute clearance, the less vibration there will be -- similarities between any two pairs isn't as critical and is regulated by the carb sync to a degree):
(B) Differences in carb syncing (how much power bang each cylinder produces based on how much fuel it's allowed to pull -- different powered detonation effects don't balance well); AND
(C) Quality/weight of the oil (helps absorb and reduce/eliminate excess vibrations).
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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I understand. Maybe its time to go back and double check valve lash and sync. If not that the only other thing I can see is my Yoshi exhaust months to the rear peg. Wonder if something there could be causing my issue. It could be just my wife is baby
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One more question about vibrations in handle bar area. I heard you can fill the clip on bars with stuff to help with the vibrations. What is some common stuff I can buy to fill the bars with?? Silicon? Also can I fill them on the bike or do I have to take them off?Comment
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You want something much heavier than silicone, normally metals. Ideal is melted lead. Since many people (myself included) don't have facilities to melt lead conveniently/safely (I live in a condo community), BB's or lead-shot held in place with silicone will work.Originally posted by Chris07
Yes, you have to remove the bars to fill them (they can only be filled from the end closest to the steering head). If you use silicone, they need to stay off the bike for at least 24 hours to drain fluids.
Alternatively, there is a great product called a BarSnake (available in both solid and non-solid forms). Definitely worth checking out.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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