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Rear brake supposed to be touching the rotor always?

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  • #1

    Rear brake supposed to be touching the rotor always?

    While rolling you can hear the rear break rubbing on my rotor. It sounds kinda vicious...like fingernails on a chalkboard. Not as loud, but equally as annoying. Looking at it, I see the brake pad is barely touching the rotor. I'm guessing it's not supposed to do that. Has this happened to anyone else? Know how to fix it? I definitely don't want to fix something that's not broken, also don't want to take it to a "stealership" for them to fix something I could fix. Help me out fellas/fellettes.

    Looney
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The pads on the brakes are always supposed to lightly brush the rotors, in order to stay at temp and sweep away any debris. The sound you hear may be the pad actually grinding something into the rotor (sand, debris; this is usually caused by a sticking caliper piston), or the pad backing plate vibrating on the mounting pins (gotta be one of the two). Try cleaning it thoroughly with spray brake cleaner; if that doesn't get rid of the issue, time to disassemble, clean the pins and regrease the small section under the rubber boot, clean the caliper pistons thoroughly, plus examine your pads closely.

    Good Luck!

    Cheers,
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

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    • #3
      How long have you had those current brake pads on the rear ?

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      • #4
        Thanks for the advice CP.

        Wildkat, I've had those brakes since....well...2002. =/

        Wildkat - "Well, change them dummy!"
        Me - "Yea...you're probably right. I'll try that."

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        • #5
          is there a special tool for pushing back the piston(s) on bikes like there is for cars. where can you get this tool??


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          • #6
            I just use a C-Clamp on cars. Works just as good as specialty tools. Dunno if they work on bikes too.

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            • #7
              it's kinda hard to get into a bike caliper with c-clamps.
              I just stick a very large screwdriver in between my old bads and twist, pry and push until i have a good opening...then put my new pads in.
              I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mojoe
                it's kinda hard to get into a bike caliper with c-clamps.
                .....
                Good point.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Mojoe
                  it's kinda hard to get into a bike caliper with c-clamps.
                  I just stick a very large screwdriver in between my old bads and twist, pry and push until i have a good opening...then put my new pads in.
                  +1..
                  Use some thin wood if you want to save the pad.

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                  • #10
                    Closed system hydraulic calipers are what is called "floating pistons." This means the pads will float back and forth around the rotor. Sometimes, the piston will get to where it doesn't retract as well as it used to. It isn't a problem unless you have worn pads and it is the pad backing that is rubbing the rotor and making the "viscious" noise you are hearing.

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                    • #11
                      Nah. I have a little pad left so it's not the backing. Just a soft grinding noise.

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                      • #12
                        Split ring pliers. I'm surprised at how many uses (other than for split rings ) I find for them. I have about 10 pairs all different angles on the end. some custom ground into various shapes. Biggest use I have for them is holding small parts for painting. Stick them into a hole and squeeze.

                        I have a pair that I ground down really thin and flat, that would probably work great for spreading motorcycle calipers.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Looneybonics
                          I just use a C-Clamp on cars. Works just as good as specialty tools. Dunno if they work on bikes too.
                          That's what I use -- a small C-clamp and a thin piece of wood.

                          Cheers,
                          =-= The CyberPoet
                          Remember The CyberPoet

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            When I go to my local stealership to order parts to change my brakes, what exactly will I need? Just front and back pads or will I need anything else? I've never changed my own brake pads on my bike.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Looneybonics
                              When I go to my local stealership to order parts to change my brakes, what exactly will I need? Just front and back pads or will I need anything else? I've never changed my own brake pads on my bike.
                              On an '02 (with an '01 date of manufacture), you're due for new brake lines and new caliper piston seals, in addition to the pads. You'll also want a bit of brake caliper grease (any auto parts store - $1 or less for a small packet). A liter of DOT 4 brake fluid (preferably Castrol GT LMA or Valvoline PowerSynth -- both clear), a can of spray brake cleaner, a roll of paper towels and a green scotchbrite pad. Optionally, SpeedBleeders.

                              On the tool front, you'll need a couple small (7/8/10mm) wrenches and a c-clamp or other method to push the caliper pistons backwards, plus a container that's brake-fluid safe to do the seal replacement/caliper rebuild in.

                              Cheers,
                              =-= The CyberPoet
                              Remember The CyberPoet

                              Comment

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