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torque specifications?

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  • #1

    torque specifications?

    Does anyone here's kat ever see a torque wrench?

    For some reason, I thought there were certain fasteners on a motorcycle which absolutely needed to be tightened to a specific torque. The exhaust headers allen bolts, for example.

    My manual does not state it however, in the process of attaching the exhaust system. Are there torque specifications or do most people just... tighten?

    Nick
    My Karma ran over my Dogma.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    In the manual at begining of section of what your working on has all the torque spec listed.
    www.scrmotorcycles.com www.katanaOutlet.com
    Katana Frame Sliders
    The only fully tested and proven Katana sliders Rear sliders, 520 conversion, gas caps and more.
    98+ Slider are "CyberPoet Endorsed" R.I.P.
    I couldn't have done this without you.

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    • #3
      In the Suzuki Service Manual, torques are listed on page 7-30. Exhaust pipe bolts are 16.5 lb-ft, muffler mounting bolts are 21 lb-ft.

      I use my torque wrench constantly on the bike and I am sure most people here who work on their own do. Improper torquing of some bolts, such as the oil drain plug, can cause expensive problems.

      Comment

      • #4
        I asked a similar question awhile ago: http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6151

        I ended up buying a 3/8 drive Craftsmen torque wrench. I will probably pick up a 1/4 drive as well for smaller things like the oil plug.

        Comment

        • #5
          Common Torque values (98-06 Kats, taken from the Suzuki Manual, courtesy of Trinc):



          Cheers,
          =-= The CyberPoet
          Remember The CyberPoet

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by tzortn
            I asked a similar question awhile ago: http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6151

            I ended up buying a 3/8 drive Craftsmen torque wrench. I will probably pick up a 1/4 drive as well for smaller things like the oil plug.
            I got the Craftsman with the 1/4 drive and it works for everything, I just use a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter for the larger bolts such as the steering stem head. Setting the desired torque is a breeze and you can't screw up when it clicks to let you know you are there. My only complaint is that when I turn the base on the wrench to the 5 lb increment, it is hard to tell exactly where I am, so it is trial and error to determine if I am torquing 16.5 lbs or 21.5 lbs. I just remember to err on the light side, and that is the right setting.

            Comment

            • #7
              I'm a firm beleive in the old-style open beam torque wrenches when working on bikes (especially the parts with very low torque values, like bleeder valves)...

              see sears.com item #00944690000

              That one's $25 (sometimes $20 on sale) at sears.

              Cheers
              =-= The CyberPoet
              Remember The CyberPoet

              Comment

              • #8
                im a firm beleiver of puttin loctite on everybolt i remove and put back in!

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                • #9
                  I hate loctite, seems like everytime I come across it they put to much on and have to put to much presure to break loose not to mention the amount of bolts that have got broken
                  www.scrmotorcycles.com www.katanaOutlet.com
                  Katana Frame Sliders
                  The only fully tested and proven Katana sliders Rear sliders, 520 conversion, gas caps and more.
                  98+ Slider are "CyberPoet Endorsed" R.I.P.
                  I couldn't have done this without you.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Yes I have a torque wrench , and yes I use it , and yes my Clymer manual has torque specs listed at the end of every chapter . But honestly , I don't use the torque wrench on EVERYTHING . Mainly engine parts and wheels is about it .
                    I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                    Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      I hate loctite, seems like everytime I come across it they put to much on and have to put to much presure to break loose not to mention the amount of bolts that have got broken
                      Loctite has it's definite uses on a bike. Primarily on the brake rotors bolts. The key to using loctite is using the appropriate strength loctite.

                      Low Strength

                      loctite threadlocker 222 recommend use on electronics, meters, gauges, set screws and such

                      Medium Strength

                      Loctite threadlocker 242 (liquid) 248(stick) blue
                      138 ft lbs breakloose force.
                      recommended use, bolts that require removal and vibration resistance. good to 300 degrees temp

                      High Strength

                      Loctite thredlocker 262(liquid) 268(stick) red
                      360 ft. lbs of breakloose force
                      recommend one time use areas. high liklihood of stripping threads on aluminum bolts or bolts bedded in aluminum. use on high torque specs bolts above 100 ft lbs. grade 8 or better bolts.

                      Hope this helps somewhat.
                      One project done, now on to the next few!!
                      Explanation to girlfriend," I could be blowing time and money on strippers and booze!!!"

                      "Ahhh! The bliss of retirement and being broke all at the same time!!"

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        I use loctite and other threadlockers on almost every fastner in a moving, vibrating, heat soaking machine I work on. The key is to use the right threadlocker for the job. There are many types of these products any thing from removable low strength, surface curing thermoplastic, to permanent you may never get it off again strength. The stuff was invented for use at NASA !
                        jr.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by The CyberPoet
                          I'm a firm beleive in the old-style open beam torque wrenches when working on bikes (especially the parts with very low torque values, like bleeder valves)...

                          see sears.com item #00944690000

                          That one's $25 (sometimes $20 on sale) at sears.

                          Cheers
                          =-= The CyberPoet
                          I have a beam style wrench I got for about $30 at an auto parts store. I used it once on a bolt because I wasn't sure I had it right on the Craftsman tool. I overtorqued the bolt and stripped the threads. Never again. The click tool is (mostly) foolproof.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Originally posted by md86
                            Yes I have a torque wrench , and yes I use it , and yes my Clymer manual has torque specs listed at the end of every chapter . But honestly , I don't use the torque wrench on EVERYTHING . Mainly engine parts and wheels is about it .
                            I have the Clymer manual but it's for GSXR 750 - 1100 1986-1987 & Katana 600 1988-1996.

                            The very last chapter in the manual is the only one that deals in specific info about the pre98 Kat 600... One chapter and I do not see any torque specifications.

                            There is a table, very early on in the book however, that give a certain torque based on the size and thread measurement of a bolt but I was sure there must be a better way.

                            Is your Clymer the same as mine or do you have one specific to the pre98 Kat 600?

                            N
                            My Karma ran over my Dogma.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Originally posted by The CyberPoet
                              Common Torque values (98-06 Kats, taken from the Suzuki Manual, courtesy of Trinc):



                              Cheers,
                              =-= The CyberPoet
                              Thanks Poet, youdaman.

                              Realistically, shouldn't these be the same on the pre98 Kats??

                              N
                              My Karma ran over my Dogma.

                              Comment

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