I've got a 2002 750 Katana, and have been trying to find some handlebar risers to bring them up and back. Any one have any ideas?
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I have genmar risers but I'm not sure if they sell them for the kat...
Start every day with a smile and get it over with - WC Fields
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Always check The CyberPoets site. He has a page for "Hyper Cool Shite" for motorcycles which includes adjustable handlebars. Look here: www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/HCS.html
...which will lead you to here: www.convertibars.com
although they are about $390
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Re: risers
Originally posted by dcynaI've got a 2002 750 Katana, and have been trying to find some handlebar risers to bring them up and back. Any one have any ideas?
Get the upper arrangement from a 600 Kat. Grab longer bolts. Have one of the CNC people here mill you up some riser blocks to match what changes you want & stick them under the stock risers using the longer bolts. Or do the same thing using a hard wood instead.
The fancy way:
The converti-bars mentioned above. Note that only some of the positions are useful because of clearance during turns smacking your hands into the fairing at the instrument surround.
The sneaky way:
Order a spare set of bar extensions. Cut them and weld in a flat plate to set them as far up/back/angled as you prefer. Grind to clean and have them powdercoated (to prevent rust at the welds). Replace yours.
The far-way-round way:
Change your seat so you change your seating position. This changes the positioning of the rest of your body instead, and may be a better solution in the long run (this is what I did -- the Corbin is about 1/2" - 1" lower because of design differences that uses a denser foam spread over a larger support area). You can order it with a specific distance to the rear of the front passenger seat, if you want to be permanently forward a bit more as well (they'll also tailor it to your inseam measurement if you ask). At $220 or so new, it's cheaper than a set of ConvertiBars and a better value in general.
PS - any changes aside from the seating change will require longer brake lines, clutch and throttle cables.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Re: risers
Originally posted by The CyberPoetThe easy way:
Get the upper arrangement from a 600 Kat. Grab longer bolts. Have one of the CNC people here mill you up some riser blocks to match what changes you want & stick them under the stock risers using the longer bolts. Or do the same thing using a hard wood instead.
The fancy way:
The converti-bars mentioned above. Note that only some of the positions are useful because of clearance during turns smacking your hands into the fairing at the instrument surround.
The sneaky way:
Order a spare set of bar extensions. Cut them and weld in a flat plate to set them as far up/back/angled as you prefer. Grind to clean and have them powdercoated (to prevent rust at the welds). Replace yours.
The far-way-round way:
Change your seat so you change your seating position. This changes the positioning of the rest of your body instead, and may be a better solution in the long run (this is what I did -- the Corbin is about 1/2" - 1" lower because of design differences that uses a denser foam spread over a larger support area). You can order it with a specific distance to the rear of the front passenger seat, if you want to be permanently forward a bit more as well (they'll also tailor it to your inseam measurement if you ask). At $220 or so new, it's cheaper than a set of ConvertiBars and a better value in general.
PS - any changes aside from the seating change will require longer brake lines, clutch and throttle cables.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
The easy way:
The problem with this method is that you will have to lower the front end for a simple flat spacer to work. The bar mount wraps around the fork tube. There is a single bolt that holds the mount against the triple tree and keep the mount from rotating around the fork tube.
The fancy way:
This is also a little pricy. Here is another less expensive option http://www.cliponrisers.com/ My buddy has these on his SV and he is happy with them. I contacted the manufacturer and they sent me pics of a Kat installation for these.
The sneaky way:
My problen with this idea is that the mounts are aluminum castings. Welding to a casting always makes me a little nervous, but then again you can get a spare set of mounts pretty cheap so it could be worth the shot.
And remember if you change the fasteners to use a high quality replacement.
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Re: risers
Originally posted by tzortnThe sneaky way:
My problen with this idea is that the mounts are aluminum castings. Welding to a casting always makes me a little nervous, but then again you can get a spare set of mounts pretty cheap so it could be worth the shot.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Re: risers
Originally posted by The CyberPoetOriginally posted by tzortnThe sneaky way:
My problen with this idea is that the mounts are aluminum castings. Welding to a casting always makes me a little nervous, but then again you can get a spare set of mounts pretty cheap so it could be worth the shot.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by meanstrkAm I to guess that if I were to begin making risers that there would be a small market for them? I may have to look at doing this............
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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