Welcome to KatRiders.
I would start with a good carb cleaning.

Welcome

Go to the wiki and download the service manual. Then read carbs 102. Then follow it to the letter. You've got dirty carbs.

Welcome!

Welcome, I second that, to the letter. There is also a sticky video on the post cleaning procedure.

Ok awesome ill check out the carbs. Gonna attempt to remove them tonight to see what's goin on. Free service manual ill download that immediately. Thanks you guys! Ill let yeah know how it goes

Alright so I took off the carbs. Went thru carbs 102 to the letter. Bike is up and flying. Still could probably use a carb sync"haven't found one to barrow yet". One thing I have noticed now that I have the fairings back on, the right front engine case (says suzuki) is leaking abit of oil out of the bottom. I need a labtop before I can download the manual. That said what is goin on with the leak? what does this case cover? It's abit scratched from the PO, actually everything damaged is from the freakin PO. I have been babying this bike, kills me to find new things worn with it I didn't notice before. Help?!?

If it's been dropped, chances are it's cracked and needs replaced. I'm not a fan but, you could use JB weld as a temporary fix.

Welcome to kr, you can find lots of help on the site great people with lots of knowledge

This is off your carb topic but something to think about. I ride in all kinds of weather and in Seattle your going to want wet traction. I recommend the Michellin PR3's. They are fantastic in the wet.
They just came out with the PR4 but I have not heard how they are yet. The 3's are supposed to get some pretty good miles (over 10,000 miles on some reviews) and they say the PR4 should get about 20% more.

I just Picked up a 98 600 that had just over 11k on it for 1700 with slight fall over damage but passes the ten feet away look. When you get a chance to download the manual start looking at the maintenance items. I was amazed how many small things were not right on mine for only 11k on it.
some of the little things I found were
Air box drain tube was disconnected
screws missing to secure the air filter
and one valve cover bolt was gone and another I could loosen with my finger. At least I know they tried to do maintenance I guess.

You have already tackled the one thing that scares me the most (carbs). It sounds like the carb sync makes a lot of difference. I just ordered my tuner off of amazon.com for $73 with free shipping yesterday. They also had an auxiliary fuel tank on there for $24 + $7 for shipping.
Congratulations on your Kat and Welcome to KR.

Ok JB weld I might look into that but I'd rather replace the engine caseings(yes plural, found the other side leaking a little bit $&@$) Went through and tightened all the case bolts on both sides. Some were very loose just like RSchlegal!! Thanks for letting me know about that. Ill have to check out those PR3s, my tires are basically new. So it might be awhile before the upgrade. I'm new to this so rain scares me if I'm on the bike. I have a car for those rainy days thankfully. Ok so back to the topic at hand haha. Will I be able to take off the engine cases to check, then reseal them with the same gaskets, they look like they're still in very good shape. I'm doin the oil tomorrow, the little window shows some dirty old lookin oil. Any suggestions for brand of oil/filter? And I'll be taking off the headers to repaint will this be a pain In my arss?

Welcome! I am also in the Seattle area, just across the water in the Eastside. Sounds like you have been doing some good work on your bike. For your oil change, just make sure to use the correct weight, 10w40 (that is for the pre, not sure if its the same for the post).

Wait on the oil change until you have the covers to replace. Drain oil, replace covers, refill oil with new.


Krey

Ok I will def look in too JB weld. I checked the caseing bolts on both sides of the engine and afew were no very tight. It's basically stopped the leak but eventually I'd like to replace the engine cases so they won't have scatches, maybe repaint them black. RSchlegal thank you for the advice, I wouldn't have checked the caseing bolts. Ill look in those rain tires, my current tires are basically new, so maybe in a season ill swap them out. Next step for me would be to change the oil and filter, and I'd like to take off the headers to repaint black. Iv read taking the headers off is kind of a B$$$$!? Is this true? Any way of simplifying the process?/ tips on how?

Make sure to use a torque wrench on the drain plug and double check your settings. The torque figures are given in nm not foot lbs.
I think the header issue is mostly due to the fasteners hardly ever get removed so they get a bit corroded and can snap when you take them off. I know there are tricks but I have not removed the exhaust on anything but two strokes that just used springs.