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2 Bottle Carb Sync - Why Not 4 Bottles?

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  • #1

    2 Bottle Carb Sync - Why Not 4 Bottles?

    I've built the carb sync tool using two starbucks bottles per http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92640

    The downside versus a pro tool is that you can only sync two carbs at a time, and must move it per the pattern. The moving isn't so hard, but the carbs not being tested must have those pesky caps clipped on, and those must be repeatedly put on and taken off (per my understanding).

    It occurred to me, why can't I just obtain two additional bottles and stoppers, and an additional 20' of tube and hook up all four carbs.

    If I create two independent tools, I could sync two sets simultaneously, but I believe I'd still need to swap to ensure the two sets equalize. If I just put an additional hole in two of the stoppers and ran tubing between all four, wouldn't that sync all four simultaneously?
    "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
    "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance
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  • #2
    That was our first set up but we realized pretty quickly why that doesn't work as well as it would seem. If you don't separate the 2 sides, it's hard to tell if the sync is because carb 1/2 is out or 1/2 id out of 3/4. It takes a lot longer and a lot more guess work to do it with all 4 live like that.

    Now I suppose if you rigged up a way to have the 2 sets blocked off from each other while you are syncing them, and then pull a plug to balance them, it might work, but that's a lot more complication to what is a simple and easy design.
    Get over yourself. For me to think you are an idiot, I would first need to think of you.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by swiddie
      I tried the bottle method, synced twice with them. Not only is it not as easy as the theory suggests, getting a good reading was nearly impossible. I.e. I'd adjust to where the water level was level, and there was no flow between them. Then I'd drop the rpm to idle, and water would start flowing. Bring the RPM back up to 4000, and it would still flow. I was constantly like "WTF, I didn't touch anything".

      Ended up spending $77 on the Motion Pro, and the accuracy of the tune is intensely better. It runs pretty much vibration free all the way to redline. It is worth it. And now that I re-synced the last time, it took all of ten minutes.

      The flow would occur at different rpms because there is different vacuum at various rpms. This is the purpose of sync specifically at 1800 rpms.

      I don't suggest using water for the bottle syncs because... 1. it's too sensitive, as you found out, and 2. oil is much better if any is pulled into the engine. I prefer a medium weight oil personally. Your assesment of the "accuracy" is actually the oposite of what the situation you just described really tells you. If the water moved, it was because there WAS a difference in pressures at the rpm range. If the motion pro tool did not show movement, it's because it's less accurate/sensitive.

      Krey
      93 750 Kat



      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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      • #4
        Swiddie, I'll keep that in mind as I'm just approaching the sync step. I have ATF as the fluid so maybe Krey's insight will help me attain a better result, but I appreciate the heads-up as I would be prepared (reluctantly) to spend more $ for a tool if it ensured a better result.
        "Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." - Albert Einstein.
        "Everything should be made as simple as possible, with the exception Kat carbs, which should be of infinite complexity." - lowmaintenance

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