Really!? No one is going to touch this one?

Not sure what result you're looking for. You could mess with the air box boots an possibly gain 1/2 a horse. In the end you still have a 500 lbs sport touring bike. So, is it worth it? That would be a resounding no.

yes.. this is true.. but only if you're using the kat frame.

If you're going to the point of using a different frame, why in the hell would you use the stock CV carbs with a stock air box? That makes little to no sense to me.

No idea what the context of the question is. Generally speaking, unless someone was doing something super custom in mind, it's highly unlikely anyone would have spent the time and $ invested in teaking that aspect of functinality. If you have the time and $ to spend ( for dyno runs to see an actual difference) then your probably just gonna get flatsides and be done with it anyways.

What do you want? What are you trying to do? What setup format are you talking about?

Krey

maybe its for some special high performance, ballz to the wall, wheelie every gear kat that we have never heard of and he wants to make the gofast machine go a TINY bit faster?

to be awnest.. unless your talking about a gsxr 1000, ZX10R or some other RR bike with a custom intake i wouldnt even think twice about touching the air box due to the fact that it wont do really anything as far as performance

If I had the time and money, I'd do a custom FI setup instead. I've done a lot to tune my engine, and even had to swap out filters for increased air flow, and haven't messed with the boots.

That sounds vaguely familiar... Oh wait, I did that.

I was thinking about the bandit swap, doesn't the B 12 use the same carb set up? I seen this done with the early 2000 gsxr 750 models and the changing of boot's using different model years, witch got me thinking about the "all awesome air box" that the CV's need on our bikes.. And again peoples lol i was just thinking and asking.

Okay, so when you ask about "playing aroun with the boots in the airbox" are you meaning changing them for different boots, or are you asking about modifying the one's you have (make them longer, shorter, ect... )?

Krey

lol yeah sorry bout that, shoulda cleared that up for you krey.. but you were right on the money.. Im talking about playing with the size of the tubes and length both inner and outer, like using 600 inner's and 750 outer boots. switching out different year models and what not or even using tubes off something else.

Okay...

The size of the bore on the tubes needs to match the carbs your using. If you go smaller for example, your going to have a huge issue with the air getting to the air jets. That isn't going to work.

If you larger, then the tubes don't do what they are there for at all.. make the air flow stright and closer to the bore walls. also not going to work.

so that leaves length. And with length you are adjusting the "wave" of the air flowing through and into the carbs. If you adjust this, your pretty much gonna need that dyno time to see any differences at all for a fine tune. Any adjustment you make that you would notice with out I'm gonna guess is going to be for a much worse performance.

Krey

Ah ok.. know why the carbs are they way they are for that type of motor?

I'm gonna interpret that as asking about the size of the bore?

That's all about max/min air flow based around the engine and cc size with a small part consideration of cams, exhaust.

To over simplify... The engine is what determines the "vacuum" or air being sucked through the system. The larger the volume of air, the larger the carb bore you will generally find. This is to match/eqalize the pressures of air flowing through the carb that will draw the fuel to mix with the air flow. You have to have a balance. Too small of a bore for the CC size and you get to high of a pressure. Too large, you get too low of a pressure. These pressures directly affect that a/f mix of all the jets, and will/can cause havoc with the a/f mixture over the rpm ranges if they are out of line with what the engine needs.

This btw... is partially descriptive of so many issues with pods and high flow filters that occur for the katana.

Constant Velocity carbs like used on the Katana and many other street bikes are very street friendly, as the pressures will partially auto adjust for things like sea level and even humidity. So it's a hands off, tune it and ride with a good performance curve for most situations.

Flat side carbs are mechanical in nature. They are not as dependant on air flow for fuel delivery in direct comparison to CV carbs. So pods and even no filters work fine on those. For best performance, your generally looking at a more hands on adjustment due to changes in elevation. BUT... the total engine air flow still needs to be matched up to the carb bore size or you wil still end up with a/f mix problems at various rpms.

Krey