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Enamel Paint Question

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  • #1

    Enamel Paint Question

    As you may know, I dropped the XJ tank and f'd it up pretty well. It's fixed now, but I noticed something when I dropped it...... it got gas all over it and, as I expected, it wrecked the paint where the gas was. To my knowledge, enamel paints are not supposed to be fuel resistant, so it didn't strike me as odd. But I thought about it today, and just less than a week ago, I tipped the kat tank over when it was sitting on the ground, and got gas all over it, too. So I checked out the kat tank, and the paint is fine. It had a little haze to it, but I rubbed it with a cloth (not with a compound or anything, just a plain shop rag that was nearby) and it looked just like always.

    So the XJ tank, painted one week ago with Duplicolor paints got really f'd up with gas, but the kat tank painted a couple years ago with some generic spray paint (it might have been Valspar? Whatever they carry at Lowes that isn't Krylon or Rustoleum) gets severely gassed and it has no problem with it.

    My question is, do enamel paints get much, much harder over the course of a couple of years? Or is there that much difference between different brands/types of enamel paint?
    Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.
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  • #2
    Fresh paint will still be very soft and have solvents outgassing and is very vulnerable to fuel.
    Chris

    Originally posted by jetmerritt
    Save up for great gear and dress for the fall before you ride. If you can't afford good quality gear, don't ride. It's like saying you can't afford seat belts for your car. There are just no laws to make gear mandatory.

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    • #3
      Paint reaches a true cure over a long period of time. Even after 2 months my old bike was not completely fuel resistant.
      Solve two of the worlds problems: Feed the homeless to the hungry.

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      • #4
        No spray paint will be completely fuel resistant
        98 GSX750F
        95 Honda VT600 vlx
        08 Tsu SX200

        HardlyDangerous Motosports

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        • #5
          Enamel is cured by oxegen exposure. Unfortunately, it works against it's self in this way because the outside cures faster and seals off the inside somewhat, slowing down the curing process.

          Fully cured enamel will be much more resistant than a new enamel paint.

          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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          • #6
            How long would you suppose it takes for enamel to fully cure?
            Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by loudnlow7484 View Post
              How long would you suppose it takes for enamel to fully cure?
              I've read before that the basic avg works out to...

              2-3 hours for "dry to the touch".
              48 hours before "safe to handle".
              2 months before 80% cured
              2 years 90%
              and the full cure rate continues to expand from there...

              All this dependent upon how thick, and what was painted. There isn't really a why to increase the cure rate... as it's a chemical reaction with oxegen that does it. Heat, light, etc... has no reall effect on that cure rate.

              Krey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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              • #8
                Well that explains a lot. I thought since I had let the painted parts sit in the paint booth around 80-90 degrees for a few days that I'd be set. It's nice to know that the enamel does get pretty tough after a while though.......
                Any and all statements by Loudnlow7484 are merely his own opinions, and not necessarily the opinion of Katriders.com. Anything suggested by him is to be followed at your own risk, and may result in serious injury or death. Responses from this member have previously been attributed to all of the following: depression, insomnia, nausea, suicidal tendencies, and panic. Please consult a mental health professional before reading any post by Loudnlow7484.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by hardlydangerous View Post
                  No spray paint will be completely fuel resistant
                  This is very correct.

                  Please keep in mind that there a a few exceptions to what I am about to say.

                  If you are using a spray can. Those coatings will never cure but they do dry. They are thermo-plastic or reversible coatings.

                  In order to get the really good chemical resistance you should use a thermo-set coating, like a urethane or epoxy with an activator. The activator links the resin together within the coating making it much stronger.


                  Exceptions:
                  UV coatings out of a spray can are thermo-set. They use UV light to cure.
                  Special cans with bladders that burst when shaken. The coating would be in one bladder and the hardener in the other.

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