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View Full Version : 1 bolt on my Header missing....Big problem?


professorman
04-03-2007, 04:07 PM
On cylinder #1 of my header, one of the bolt holes is COMPLETELY stripped and dug out. The previous owner messed up it real bad using Liquid Steel and all. Now there is just a big hole there. I can not bore it nor tread it. The only fix I see is to dig it out and weld it up and then re-tap a hole in it.
I went to get a price quote for fixing it and the cheapest I got was $250. That is too much for me.
Can I ride okay with 1 bolt holding on #1 header?

What are the consequences of this?

Thanks guys!

Dan Dubeau
04-03-2007, 04:28 PM
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/8586/cl3816skspcv0.jpg (http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/index.cfm/27825071F0B221118070C1C513E111D081B0006280B1713050 245221E0107070F1A3C3B285356445C)

Got room for one of these? better than a heli coil in that situation. just drill oversize (on location), tap, insert insert, tap keys down, and fuggetaboutit

KatanaSoldier
04-03-2007, 05:17 PM
That looks like a good solution.

Dan thanks for that how to thread on image shack. I give it to all the newbies as it was the easiest one!

professorman
04-03-2007, 05:18 PM
A heli coil wont work. It doesnt even look like a hole anymore. 1/2 of the other side of the hole is missing and it is just a chipped off piece, like they cut it off to try to rebuilt it with liquid steel.

Smoke-Dog
04-03-2007, 06:26 PM
You might be able to use J.B. Weld to fill it in then drill and tap. If you don't wanna remove the head you could build a jig out of cardboard and duct tape to hold it til it cures. Do you know anybody with an aluminum welder? If so all you would need is for them to run a good bead and you could drill and tap it yourself or get a machine shop to just weld it and then tap.

professorman
04-03-2007, 07:36 PM
You might be able to use J.B. Weld to fill it in then drill and tap.

Yea, I think the previous person used something similar to J.B.Weld. I could try building it up more and see if it would work. Woulf this withstand the heat from the header?

If you don't wanna remove the head you could build a jig out of cardboard and duct tape to hold it til it cures.

haha about the cardboard and duct tape.

Do you know anybody with an aluminum welder? If so all you would need is for them to run a good bead and you could drill and tap it yourself or get a machine shop to just weld it and then tap

This is what I am getting quoted for the high prices. I would need to take it to the guy's shop. The header needs to come off, then he would lay the bike on the side and tig weld it. He would then drill it and re-tap a hole.
With all my other problems, this is getting too expensive :?

md86
04-04-2007, 02:34 AM
Or look for another head ...... COULD get off cheaper that way , but will take some time to swap it in there .

koncsolt
04-04-2007, 09:11 AM
You might want to give some MarineTex structural epoxy a try. You can find this stuff at any marine supply store. It's used on everything from repairing holes in boat hulls to repairing engine blocks and cylinder heads. When fully cured it can be drilled and tapped just like metal. It might be worth a look.

87vert
04-04-2007, 11:49 AM
have a stud welded in? or try and epoxy a stud in place.

CANATUNA
04-04-2007, 12:32 PM
I think the Jb weld is a good option to try. I kid you not.....when I was 17 I was replacing the valve cover gaskets on my ol' oldsmobile and tightened on of the bolts too much. When I did this, a piece of the frickin head broke off. I used JB weld on the damn thing and put it back together....LMAO I drove another 3k miles and had no troubles.....It actually broke off at the top of one of the water jackets....crazy good stuff.

professorman
04-04-2007, 01:53 PM
I bought some JB weld. I will try it later today. Can I just seal up the hole with JB weld and drill a hole in it?

md86
04-05-2007, 02:04 AM
I bought some JB weld. I will try it later today. Can I just seal up the hole with JB weld and drill a hole in it?
Sounds like what you'd wanna do . That's what I'D do . JB is some wonderful stuff ..... But I'd still save up and look for another head :lol: . But maybe that's just me :dunno: .

Smoke-Dog
04-05-2007, 08:34 PM
J.B. Weld really works if you mix it right. Now about the cardboard and duct tape :cry: it does sound crazy but it will hold it in place long enough for it to set or better yet cut a piece of plastic and use it and just peel it off once it sets. I use J.B. all the time and you don't get all of the slag from welding.

professorman
04-06-2007, 12:08 AM
J.B. Weld really works if you mix it right. Now about the cardboard and duct tape :cry: it does sound crazy but it will hold it in place long enough for it to set or better yet cut a piece of plastic and use it and just peel it off once it sets. I use J.B. all the time and you don't get all of the slag from welding.

oh, I misinterpreted what you said. I though you were saying that I should just use cardboard and duct tape to hold on my header until it is fixed. lol.
That sounds like a good idea though.
My friend told me that there is a higer temperature jb weld for exhausts? I searched on their website but couldnt find anything. The package says that jb weld is good to 500deg. How hot does the header get? Is there anything out that can whitstand higher temperatures?

professorman
04-23-2007, 02:57 PM
I used some JBweld on it. It seem to be holding up so far, with about 50 miles on it.

professorman
04-23-2007, 08:02 PM
Oooppppss... I spoke too soon. I just came back from a 2 hr ride, so I decided to check on my trusty lil JB weld job, when I looked down, the stud pulled on the JB weld and cause a 1mm crack in it, so it seems to be completely cracked and not holding. In addition to that, the bolt that goes on the stud to hold the header bracket on is missing. It seem like it vibrated off while I was riding. I should have put some locktite on it or something to keep it from vibrating off. One thing I am wondering though, if it had enough looseness to vibrate off, why did the stud pull out and crack the jbweld? well, seem like I definately have to go to the welder.

Someone was telling me that there was a higher temperature JB weld type of epoxy around for exhausts, anyone know of any?

Thanks!