View Full Version : 93 600 engine rebuild questions
02-17-2007, 07:42 AM
I am about to crack open the 600 to start rebuilding it and i came across a couple questions:
What should be replaced (bearings and such)?
Has anyone tanked (Deep cleaned) the major components (block, Head, Oil Pan)
Is there any viable use for the black Paint on the Block (why i am deep cleaning the thing to begin with) i am wanting to remove it.
Thanks ahead of time for any answers
02-17-2007, 08:27 AM
I can't answer any of your questions, but I will wish you the best of luck. Opening the crank case was one of the hardest things I've ever done.
You may want to look at the shift forks & drums while you have everything apart... in fact if you are going to the trouble of opening the motor up, you may just want to replace them while you're in there.
02-17-2007, 03:37 PM
well the Clutch Motor and Trannie are already out of this engine. (thats gonna be a fun project in and of itself)
What i am trying to do with this rebuild is take off the Stock Black Paint on the Crank, Lugs, Heads, Rocker covers, and side covers. after that then polish the entire engine (minus Carbs). i want to make the engine look totally different.
Im estimating the time i put into the block, I can work on the rest of the nightmare. basically before the rally is teardown and Tanking the thing, and Post Rally will be the polishing and Rebuild
02-17-2007, 04:31 PM
I haven't seen anyone tank a Kat engine before, but I have seen many take wire-wheels to carbon build-up.
As for replacing parts, a couple questions come to mind:
(1) are you sure it has/had good compression before? If not, no amount of cleaning will get around the need for new cylinder walls and bigger rings (and possibly bigger pistons depending on how much bigger the walls need to be);
(2) Are you doing this as a learning experience, or are you planning on actually getting it running and keeping it? If the answer is running & keeping it, the crank journal bearings, crank journals and cam journals should be replaced. If you really want to go above & beyond, getting the crank and cams balanced at a machine shop would be superb (make the engine run silky smooth).
(3) Cam chain tensioner spring assy should definitely be changed, and depending on the condition of the cam chain, it may need to be changed too.
=-= The CyberPoet
02-21-2007, 07:09 PM
Lets see if i can shed some light on the engine to answer CP's points
1) The engine has never ran in my possession i am assuming the 16K on the bike's odo is how many miles are on the engine. So Compression rates at this time are unknown. I heard that the pre 98 600's were sleeved (Piston Walls) Would removing the sleeves Increase the engine size? ( i heard doing this would bring it close to a 750 engine if it is possible)
2) Basically Both... Learn the inner workings of a MC engine (something i never had the chance to do with the Chevy V-8's i had back in the day) when I re-assemble it (if everything is in working order) i want a working engine that can go directly into a bike.
3) Both are not present on/in this engine so they are being replaced :wink:
as for a place that does the tanking - i found one less than a mile from the house.
02-21-2007, 07:38 PM
1) I don't think you can just "remove" the sleeves... but I do believe that they can be bored out somewhat. Although it would be easier to just put a 750 motor in and go from there.
2) Yes. I did that with the busted engine I've got. Getting the crankcase apart was one of the hardest things I've ever done.
02-21-2007, 08:05 PM
Part of the reason I keep asking whether you're keeping it is because I know the title status on the frame -- it really should be looked upon as a learning experience and not something to throw heavy dollars into, IMHO. Remember, a healthy, running engine is generally worth $600 -- so pushing more than $600 into the engine in new parts & outside services makes no sense financially.
=-= The CyberPoet
vBulletin® v3.8.8, Copyright ©2000-2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.