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View Full Version : CHEAP FUMOTO OIL DRAIN VALVES


KatanaSoldier
01-13-2007, 09:10 AM
After ordering mine a few days ago from fumoto themselves, I did a search for cheaper ones. These guys have them for only $20.95 plus three bucks shipping. Fumoto themselves sell them for $22.95 for 4 bucks shipping. So I ordered one from these guys for my truck. How they can sell them cheaper them fumoto themsleves in beyond me but here is their site to save you some bucks. As Cyber does, I HIGHLY recommend investing in one of these. Or.... you will end up stripping your oil pan like lucky me :P Trust me, it is easy to strip it!


http://www.lubricationspecialist.com/

md86
01-13-2007, 07:58 PM
ALOT of places give you better prices than the manufacterer :dunno: . I never got that , either .

Anonymous
01-13-2007, 08:12 PM
What is the model number of the one you purchased KSoldier?

I'm looking at that website, and it seems to be sorted per brand of supposedly cars....so I want to see if when I select 'Suzuki' it is in fact the one I want.

The CyberPoet
01-13-2007, 08:14 PM
You want an F111 without nipple for a Katana (at least if your Kat uses the standard M14-1.25 drain bolt; if it's been retapped at some point, your guess is as good as mine).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Anonymous
01-13-2007, 08:17 PM
I am going to purchase for both my 93 Katana and 98 Subaru Impreza...should I go nippleless on both? Would you reccomend the safety pin?

http://static.flickr.com/76/174960638_685c323a96_m.jpg

The CyberPoet
01-13-2007, 08:31 PM
I am going to purchase for both my 93 Katana and 98 Subaru Impreza...should I go nippleless on both? Would you reccomend the safety pin?

Standard F series (no nipple) will be right for the bike. Lower total mounting height means no chance of striking a speedbump or other obstruction that the standard oil pan wouldn't have hit anyway.

Depending on where your oil drain is on the Subaru (and which direction it's facing), it's your call -- figure if the drain bolt points straight down in the center of the pan, nipple-less is fine; if it points at other equipment (like mounted at a 45 degree angle at one end of the oil pan facing the ball joints or tie-rods), get the nippled one so you can slip a hose over the nipple to keep from splashing the oil where you don't want it to go.

What safety pin? I haven't seen a safety pin on any of the ones I've owned, and that's over 100k miles on two bikes and 4 cars without a valve ever opening unexpectedly.
EDIT: you mean the circ-clip safety. I've never used one.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

KatanaSoldier
01-13-2007, 09:11 PM
Yup the F111 like Cyber advised. For the Truck I got the F106. Looking forward to getting them.

Anonymous
01-14-2007, 12:25 AM
Just ordered F105 and F111 w/out nipplage from Fumoto.

Use YM4 for a 10% discount. (I got my shipping free basically!)

:banana

(Found the discount code on my Subaru forum from 2 years ago! :wink: )

Stupid question #1: I'm assuming I still use a crush washer for the new valve?

Stupid question #2: How do I (correctly) torque that thing on, seeing it won't take a standard bolt?

Steveb
01-14-2007, 01:22 PM
ALOT of places give you better prices than the manufacterer :dunno: . I never got that , either .

If they sold cheaper than their retailers, well.....the retailers would stop ordering them!

Anonymous
01-14-2007, 05:37 PM
Stupid question #1: I'm assuming I still use a crush washer for the new valve?

Stupid question #2: How do I (correctly) torque that thing on, seeing it won't take a standard bolt?

Bump

The CyberPoet
01-14-2007, 06:48 PM
Stupid question #1: I'm assuming I still use a crush washer for the new valve?

It has a built-in blue-fiber washer that is part of the actual design of the valve. You shouldn't need any additional washers unless for some reason you can't get it to seat with the bottom flush.

Stupid question #2: How do I (correctly) torque that thing on, seeing it won't take a standard bolt?

You don't worry about the torque -- you use an adjustable wrench and just make it snug, then check for leakage (the semi-spongee blue washer takes up the slack). I suspect the threads are actually NPT variants, meaning they flare a bit more at the base than the top, so they cut in.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Anonymous
01-14-2007, 07:05 PM
Thanks Marc! 8)

KatanaSoldier
01-14-2007, 10:48 PM
Thanks too because I thought hmm, those are some stupid questions I forgot to ask! :D