replacing tire

[AliceInChains02]

i need a new back tire. the one i have isn't stock, it's a Bridgestone Battlax BT56r Radial 160/60 ZR17. i was thinking about posting a WTB in some local moto forums, but i'm not sure about different tires, sizes, etc. Will a different brand 160/60 fit my wheel? I've tried googling, but this is the kind of stuff only other bikers can tell you it seems. Thanks

[duff daddy]

yea the will fit, i personally would buy a metzler m1 sport tech, i love the tire and a lot of other ppl do too go to www.americanmototire.com i think is the name of hte site...

[The CyberPoet]

Re: replacing tire

A few questions come to mind:
(A) What's on the front of the bike now?
(B) Which year/model?
(C) What kind of driving do you do most of the time (cold/warm weather, short/long haul, 600 mile days, two-up, railing)? The best tire in general matches your needs, and while there are hyper-grippy railing tires if you spend all your time canyon carving at high speed, you can get more grip than you need and three times the life out of sport-touring tires (even from the same manufacturer).

There are a lot of opinions on tires around here... My take is the best all-around commuting/touring tire for the Kat is the Metzeler Z6 and/or the Pirelli Diablo Stradas (which would appear to be a knock-off; Metzeler builds all of Pirelli's motorcycle tires for them).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[DooD]

On a '98+ Katana, the most common choices are the 150/70, 160/60, or 170/60. All brands will fit - there is very little - if any change between manufacturer and specific tire sizes. Replacing your current 160/60 with ANY other 160/60 will have little or no effect on the bike whatsoever.

As for the tire, I would have to agree with Cyberpoet. The Metzeler Z6 is a GREAT tire for all-around use. I've used them myself, and can honestly say that I'd buy them again if I were in the market for that type of tire.

[The CyberPoet]

Left (blue background): Metzeler Z6.............. Right (yellow background): Diablo Stradas
REAR:

FRONT:


As for those who say the Z6's aren't up to handling the canyons and railing, on a bike as heavy as a stock Kat, they work like a dream:



Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Stradas do okay , too (I wanna play ! ) ....

[AliceInChains02]

okay, i found someone who is selling a set of BT014s. i currently have bt 56 120/70 and 160/60. he is selling 120/70 and 180/55. would these fit on my bike? what do the #s mean? thanks

[The CyberPoet]

REPOSTED from http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4293

i want a wider back tire the current sizes is a 150/70/17r and 110/80/17f but i want someting wider on the rear what size should i get and will i have to change the front tire too if so what size should i use???

While you may be able to physically fit a larger set of tires on the bike, but that doesn't mean you can do so safely with the wheels you currently have. A 150/70 and 120/70 are about the largest combination you can safely use with the stock pre-98 rims, unless you find a manufacturer who builds specialty wide tires designed for narrow rim-widths (Avon is one brand known to do so, but I don't know what they have for the 3.5" rim).

There are three obvious answers, depending on how bad you want it:
1. Swap wheels with a 98+ Kat or SV650.
2. Get a different bike with wider wheels.
3. Drop the notion that you want wider wheels.

See these threads for more info:
http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2684
http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=711
http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=378


How to read tire fitment charts and info:

Typical complete tire description: 120/70ZR17J (58W)
 
Now, let's break that down into pieces that make sense:

The first number (120) represents the widest point of the tire's width between the left and right sides, called the "section width", and measured in millimeters. In this example, the width of the tire is 120 millimeters.
 
The slash ( / ) is there to differenciate the first number from the second number, and serves no other purpose.
 
The second number (70) represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the first number (in this example, it tell us the tire sidewall height is 70 percent of 120 millimeters, or 84 millimeters tall).

Then comes either one or two letters (in our example, ZR). Sometimes these letters are placed elsewhere in the description, but traditionally, they should be listed this point. The first letter is always the speed rating (see Speed Rating chart), and the second letter, if it is there, is an "R" (radial tire) or a "B" (bias tire).

The next numbers (17) represent the wheel's diameter, measured in inches. In this example, the wheel is 17 inches across.

A letter at the end of the first part of the designation (the J in our example) is not required, but if present means that the tire has a special characteristics to match some manufacturer's specific motorcycle model. For example, Metzeler makes (made at the time I wrote this) a Z4 radial as a 150/70ZR17, as a 150/70ZR17B, and as a 150/70ZR17J, where the "B" model was intended specifically the OEM factory tire for BMW 1150GS models (reinforced sidewall & lip design), and the "J" model was intended for Yamaha FJR1300's (a minor tread pattern variation from what I could tell).

A two digit number follows, which is sometimes omitted but never should be ( 58 ). This number represents the load capacity or weight rating of the tire (in terms of how much weight, including both the rider and the motorcycle itself, the tire is designed to handle as it's maximum). In our example, the 58 can be looked up in a cross-referenced chart, and represents a maximum load rating of 520 lbs. There is no simple way to directly convert the number to the weight that I have been able to figure out.

Finally, a letter may follow the load capacity (W). This is a manufacturer "modifying descriptor" and means that the standard for the tire is modified by some means (W generally means higher speed rated than a standard Z rated tire). We haven't been able to find a cross-reference for the various modifiers (yet -- they do vary by manufacturer), so if you are concerned about the rating modifier, contact the actual manufacturer's rep for the tire.

Additionally, all motorcycle tires are normally marked with three or four digit code on their sidewalls, which represent the date of manufacture (the first two digits are the week of the year, the last digit is the year of the decade it was manufacturered in). Since modern cycle tires are only good for about five years from the date of their manufacture (the time period it takes the various compounds that keep the tire pliable and strong to evaporate out), knowing which year of a decade it was manufacturered is normally enough. Example: 011 would be a tire manufactured in January (1st week) of 2001. 118 would be a tire manufacturerd in the 11th week (between the 13th and 19th of March) of 1998 (since 2008 hasn't arrived yet, as I write this). As a general rule, newer tires are better, and we recommend you buy tires manufactured within the past 12 months whenever possible (obviously, if you have a flat away from home, you will take whatever you can get). Do not buy a four or five year old tire!

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Though the russian judges give CP high marks on his choice of footwear..
The Gold medal goes to md86 for form, leathers, and hairstyle...

[The CyberPoet]

Though the russian judges give CP high marks on his choice of footwear..
The Gold medal goes to md86 for form, leathers, and hairstyle...

My leather pants don't fit anymore... damn thyroid! And without 'em, I'm not going round the bike like that :P


You know, it took this thread for me to realize the many parallels between our bikes...
both are blue
both have blue aftermarket windshields
both appear to have corbins
both have baggage racks


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[AliceInChains02]

thanks for the help

[WildKat]

Though the russian judges give CP high marks on his choice of footwear..
The Gold medal goes to md86 for form, leathers, and hairstyle...

My leather pants don't fit anymore... damn thyroid! And without 'em, I'm not going round the bike like that :P


You know, it took this thread for me to realize the many parallels between our bikes...
both are blue
both have blue aftermarket windshields
both appear to have corbins
both have baggage racks


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

you need to get a this side up, sticker like he used to have on there to make it really authentic

[md86]

I MAY have a few left from where I used to work . Yeah , but if you REALLY look at the pics , Cyber was leaning his bike over more than I was . He was near draggin his boots around every corner . And it seems MY form needs some work , too . I didn't ralize how much so until after seeing all the pics Killboy took .

[The CyberPoet]

...but if you REALLY look at the pics , Cyber was leaning his bike over more than I was . He was near draggin his boots around every corner .

Old German instructor's trick (taught to me when I was getting my German instructor's license) -- using the outside of the boot sole as a feeler for the ground compared to the lean angle of the bike. I know a lot of "Twist of the Wrist II" guys will jump all over me for it, but when riding cop/instructor style (upright to the bike, no hanging off), it's very effective and is a parallel for the type of feedback you get from a knee puck if you were knee-down... Even Killboy ragged on me in his photo-spread for it (but you also have to admit that I'm faster through the turns even in that upright stance than most of members are body-out/knee-down).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Yeah , I had a hard time keeping up .