Replacing the OEM chain/sprockets, need tips on what to buy

[rayden7]

I'm looking into making a few modifications and improvements to the Kat this winter, including buying a new battery. I have a 2000 Kat 750.

One of the things I want to do is replace the original chain and sprockets - unfortunately I am *very* new to bikes in general, and I don't know what type of chain (O-ring, X-ring, etc) to get, how many links it should have, or what sprockets are best. I am hoping I can spend about $200 and get a very decent chain and sprockets. Depending on how difficult it is, I may or may not install them myself (if it's not easy then I'll just pay my local shop to put them on).

Anyone have tips, advice, and recommendations for what kind of chain and sprockets to get?

[The CyberPoet]

You'll find a big variety of opinions, but here's my take and the 'why' about it:

O-ring, X-ring, W-ring: all are sealed chains with lube inside for the bearings. You need an sealed chain, because it's what the bike is designed to use. Lube on the inside doesn't mean you shouldn't use lube on the outside as well.

Standard width chain is #530. Some people like going to a #520 width chain (narrower between the sides) to reduce weight, but I tend to discourage it because a 530 is normally built more stoutly. Chains also come in different classes, racing, touring, etc. Do not buy racing chains -- these are designed for racing, where chains get replaced after a race or two, and while strong, are not up to the day-to-day load of a regular street driver for months and years on end. Most manufacturers build multiple types of #530 chains; contacting the manufacturer for their recommendation for your bike is encouraged (they won't steer you wrong, unlike many vendors who will due to ignorance).

Link count: stock link count is 118 links on your bike, which is perfect for use with a 15 tooth front sprocket, 47 tooth rear sprocket, which is what your bike uses as OEM configuration. If you change your tooth counts, you'll need to either subtract (cut-off) links or get a longer chain (more links) to compensate. Example: going to a 48 tooth rear sprocket would mean you would have an extra tooth at the back -- you'd need 119 links instead of 118. Common is to buy 120 link chain and cut it down to 118 because 120 link chains are more common in the industry.

More chain info here: CyberPoet's Understanding Motorcycle Chains, Chain Wear and Chain maintenance

Sprockets: standard sprockets, as mentioned above, are 15/47 for your bike. If you like the way it accelerates, the top speed, etc., replace the sprockets with the same tooth-counts. Dropping teeth in the front or adding teeth in the rear will increase your acceleration rates, but knock some top speed off (you'll never know though, because the speedo will be off by whatever percentage you change the ratios). More info here:
CyberPoet's Generic Motorcycle Sprocket Ratios and Math explained
CyberPoet's Suzuki GSXF Katana Sprocket Ratio tables & notes

Sprocket metals: stock sprockets are made of steel, which is very strong and last a long time. Many aftermarket firms offer aluminum sprockets, which are lighter, but never have the same strength below the surface as steel (thus wear faster and wear the chains faster). A few companies, such as SideWinder Sprockets also now offer special combination sprockets, using an aluminum carrier with a steel or titanium-blend tooth ring (the best of both worlds - long life and lighter weight).
Personally, I don't believe in using aluminum sprockets on something as heavy as a Katana; it seems silly to buy something that only provides a small weight benefit but a much shorter use-life, so I recommend steel teeth (whether it's a steel sprocket or a steel-tooth ring is irrelevant to me).

Installing a new chain and sprockets isn't brain surgery, but does require some specialty tools, and getting the front sprocket off can be a PIA. Personally, it's one of those things that I usually simply turn over to a local dealer to do for me -- in part because his price to me on OEM-quality chain and sprockets with install is within $25 of what I'd pay for an aftermarket combo. I have changed my chains before and may again in the future, but for now it's worth the $25 to let him do it for me.

As for where to buy:
Vortex has a premade combo kit with sprockets and chain that is sold through bikebandit.com at a very reasonable price for the quality ($139 or so for the full kit).
JC Whitney carries the cheapest versions I've ever found, MotionPro (I didn't know they even made chains or sprockets) for something like $90 for all the parts, as individual items. You can find the JC Whitney part numbers on my website here.
RonAyers.com usually has the best prices on the OEM chain and sprockets (actual Suzuki brand versions).
Finally, check with both your local CycleGear store (locate it by visiting www.cyclegear.com ) and your local dealer for pricing and see if there is a discount with installation.

Other tidbits/tips/hints:
If it's been 4 years since your bike was built or since you changed the cush (rubber pads under the rear sprockets), change them as well. It goes a long way to absorbing stresses accelerating and decellerating, and extending the life of your chain.
seriously consider getting an automatic chain oiler if you can afford it. They run $120 to $150 normally, and will normally double the lifespan of the chain & sprockets because they constantly add a little bit of oil to the chain as it spins, keeping it perfectly lubed.
Aluminum doesn't polar-bond to oils, so aluminum sprockets need oil about three times as often as steel sprockets to help prevent teh same amount of wear.
Most chain wear happens because of gritty debris getting onto the chain and ruining the seals; cleaning the chain and lubing it with oil helps keep this grit-content down. For best results, add lube every time you tank up, and clean once every 600 miles or so, plus do both any time you've been riding in rain, salt-covered roads, or particularly dusty environments (desert/beach).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[ZukiFred]

I do have one note to Cyber’s post. On the 98+ there was 2 different rear sprocket sizes. The 15-47 with 118 link chain, and the 15-45 with 116 link chain.

[The CyberPoet]

I do have one note to Cyber’s post. On the 98+ there was 2 different rear sprocket sizes. The 15-47 with 118 link chain, and the 15-45 with 116 link chain.

Fred, I keep hearing this repeated everywhere (esp. at vendor sites, such as Vortex's cross-reference), but all the factory fiche files from Suzuki for each and every year between 98 and 04 say otherwise for the USA (15/47 + 118, across the board for 98+). The speedo calibration is also universally set for the 98+ for 15/47, or there'd be variations on that too I'd think...

My guess is that someone somewhere at a 3rd party vendor got a typo and it spread to become a "common" industry falsehood, or maybe Suzuki offered the other combo in a different market (Canada maybe?).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[The CyberPoet]

Also of note:
RK (OEM vendor) recommends use of their 530XSO or 530HFO chains as replacements for the stock RK 50MF0Z1 chain used on the 98+ models.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[AHF]

I still say the Kat was made to run -1 in the front (14/47). It was the best mod I ever did to the bike, and you can do it on the stock length chain.

[rayden7]

Excellent post Cyber - that's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks to everyone else weighing in as well. I think I can make a fairly decent decision now as to what I should get - when I do pick out exactly what I'm planning on buying I'll post it here.

[ZukiFred]

I do have one note to Cyber’s post. On the 98+ there was 2 different rear sprocket sizes. The 15-47 with 118 link chain, and the 15-45 with 116 link chain.

Fred, I keep hearing this repeated everywhere (esp. at vendor sites, such as Vortex's cross-reference), but all the factory fiche files from Suzuki for each and every year between 98 and 04 say otherwise for the USA (15/47 + 118, across the board for 98+). The speedo calibration is also universally set for the 98+ for 15/47, or there'd be variations on that too I'd think...

My guess is that someone somewhere at a 3rd party vendor got a typo and it spread to become a "common" industry falsehood, or maybe Suzuki offered the other combo in a different market (Canada maybe?).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

To the best of my knowledge My kat isn't a Canadian Kat, The 45 is the OEM from the dealer sprocket. I have heard from a few other 750 owners that they to have the 45 also.

[cdy64118]

i just recently replaced my sprocket/chain and i went with the vortex sprocket and the rk chain (gold) which i like a lot. my husband went a size up on the rear and size smaller in the front so my bike pulls a lot faster (accdg to butt dyno) on take offs.i know it takes off of my top end but i know i will not go that fast anyway.

[The CyberPoet]

Fred, I may have to eat my own words. Re-examining the fiche files yet again, I find the 98-04 750 comes with a Suzuki PN 64511-20C21, while the 600 comes with a 64511-20C11 for 98-04. I must have over-looked that one character difference previously.

Anyone still have an OEM sprocket laying around with the part number on it?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[rayden7]

I ordered RK/Vortex OE Warranty Chain and Sprocket Kit from BikeBandit.com, on sale for $127.50. I decided to stick with the stock sprocket (15/47), since I don't really want the tradeoff of lowered top speed/quicker acceleration.

At the advice of a friend who used to own/ride Katanas, I think I'm going to try and replace the old chain/sprockets myself. He warned me though about the front sprocket being incredibly tough to get off, apprently because there might be some kind of super-adhesive.

In this post some guys are saying they used "blue" or loctite to help secure down the front sprocket - what do you guys think?

[The CyberPoet]

Yes. If the front socket has never been removed on that bike before, it will be a bear to get off because the factory does use a loctite-style thread bonder on it. The only secret is lots of force in instant bursts -- impact tools are great for 'cracking' the hold (turning the loctite into dust). Simply adding progressively more pressure won't permit it to move... If you have access to an air-driven or electrically-drive impact gun, use it (even if it means visiting someone else); otherwise, get an impact driver and smack that puppy hard!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[md86]

Or a long breaker-bar .

[Knucklehead]

I picked up a silver RK 530XSO chain and Vortex sprocket kit from Bike Bandit for $116 last month.

I'll be attempting this with the help of a friend in the spring. I've also heard that the front sprocket is a monster to get off. I can get access to an impact tool so I may go ahead and do that.

Would it be best to go at the front sprocket first while the chain is still on so you could apply the rear brake to keep the sprocket from turning. I can imagine using an impact tool on the front sprocket with the bike in 1st can't be good for the gears.

[woobie]

I don't know if the posts are still floating around but 03Katanuck did his a year or so ago and he had a hell of a time with the front sprocket.

In fact I think he ended up breaking one of the nuts trying to get front sprocket off.